This is why I asked...

 

The post you are referencing is where he is referring to our custom tune (non cam-idle) and/or tuner orders.

 

Is anyone else on here running the cam idle tune having issues with the car studdering and dying while trying to drive at slow speed?

For example, when backing up my driveway which is at a slight angle into my garage i cant just have my foot off the clutch in reverse and go for it. I have to more or less ride the clutch so i don't sideswipe the other car in there.
Well when going in and out with the clutch,putting load on and off the motor it keeps wanting to stall out. It will studder at like 300-400 rpm then stall.
The only way around it is if i hold the rpms at like 1500-2000 and feather the clutch. Pretty annoying.

Also i noticed if after a warm start you cant blip the throttle just a little bit cuz it will studder and stall out, seems like it needs to be reved up quite a bit to keep it from stalling.

So far not too impressed with the driveability, although it does sound really nice when its working and everything above idle is golden as well.

Edit: Next morning couldn't even pull out of the garage, car just keeps stalling. Cam idle tune has been removed.
Hopefully we can get this resolved

 

welcome to the realities of a cammed car.. seeing that these are and aren't cammed (all at the same time) hopefully the tune can be sorted out.

 

Yea I'm hoping the response isn't that it's normal.
I still think there was a problem with the tune being written for the wrong ECM code.
My ECM code is ZFK0.
When I received the tune file, the filename (which starts with your ECM code) read ZFK2.
Called Steeda and they said they had it down as ZSK0, but the tuner saw that was a bad ECM code and changed it.
I still kinda wonder why I wasn't called for clarification.
So there are 3 different variations of ECM code floating around here. I just hope that it is a wrong code that is the problem because I'd love to be able to run the cam idle tune.
Should find out Monday.

 

That is exactly how a car with a bunch of cam overlap behaves, anyone who has owned an older 5.0L with a big camshaft can confirm this. You have to rev it up a bit and ride the clutch out in a car configured this way.

This we need to look into, PM me your setup including what, if any, cold air intake you are running.

 

For the auto cars, will the stock converter work ok, its pretty tight, or should I step up to about a 24-2600 stall?

 

out of curiousity... where can I get the computer code that I'll need.

 

Under the hood right next to the fuse box on the PCM, should be on a white sticker and is 3 letters and 1 number (such as ABC5).

 

It works fine with stock, I ran the tune to test it for Gus, tune worked great, its not an everyday driving tune though. The rocking and loping are cool for carshows or cruises with other mustangs, but as for a daily driver... GL...

Shane

 

Thanks for the input Shane. I'll probably just load it once in a while when it's nice and I drive it to work or what not. The wife drives it sometimes so I'd switch to a different tune for her. Planning on a stall anyway so that should make it more drive able. Maybe lol

Cory

 

lol, its also a differant driving style, you HAVE to let the car warm up before you drive it too with this tune.. if not it goes nuts. and it stalled on me once cause i was impatient.. if you let it warm up, then it has no issues what so over, Steeda tells you this when u get the tune.

 

I just put remote start on it this past weekend so that should fix that problem. Most guys I know with canned cars usually have to do the same thing. Especially the big cammed ones, cold stiff valve springs don't last long when they get ran cold a lot.

 

"Notes on cam idle tunes: On cold starts car will not cam idle until initial cold start high idle period is over and engine has some temperature. This is normal. On warm starts car should also start idling smooth. Blip the throttle once a few seconds after start and car should settle into cam idle"

This was the instruction sent with the cam idle tune, nothing mentioned about not being able to drive the car until full warmup.

Oh well, no biggie. Steeda is making everything right for me, will be running their regular tune from now on. Like I said before, everything above idle with the steeda tune was awesome

 

the car will stall out, it happened to me, if you try and drive it before it warms up, you can blip the throttle to start it to lope, and drive off, but its not recommended unless the car is already warm.

 

10 days until my car is supposed to be delivered to the dealership, and I am highly anticipating this purchase.

 

Don't know if anyone has posted any numbers but... I didn't do a baseline dyno but I had it dynoed recently with the Steeda CAI and 91 octane tune and its putting down 406hp.

 

Updates on the Auto Tune???

 

Does the Steeda tune work with the JLT intake?

 

Yes, we have tuning for the JLT intake.