MGW Shifter Ordered
#65
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Originally Posted by FromZto5
^ looks nice buddy! Good luck with the install!
I just got shudders after seeing that shift rubber booth again. Man, was that a royal pain in the you know what.
I just got shudders after seeing that shift rubber booth again. Man, was that a royal pain in the you know what.
#66
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Originally Posted by devildog1679
Nervous on that part, who well got to pay to play
#67
I Have No Life
I read that tho, and tried it... No avail. A buddy and I were pulling, scraping knuckles, swearing, using a screwdriver, you name it... That darn thing took 45 mins to get on. I kid you not. Maybe we were just retarded...lol.
#68
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Originally Posted by FromZto5
I read that tho, and tried it... No avail. A buddy and I were pulling, scraping knuckles, swearing, using a screwdriver, you name it... That darn thing took 45 mins to get on. I kid you not. Maybe we were just retarded...lol.
#69
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It's better to add an extra step rather than an extra hour.
The boot is tight but it can be negotiated if you attack the problem in the right order. Here's what I figured out when I did it:
Before you start putting the boot on, there are two things to note. First, the shifter has to be held firmly in place by the two bracket nuts at the back so it won't move around during the first phase of installing the boot, but don't loctite those nuts until after the boot is on. Second, put the Dynamat sound deadener in place before you install the boot. The second point isn't critical, it's just easier. Then:
1. with the shifter in position, push the boot over the tower and start working it into the groove around the tower by putting your fingers through the hole and flexing it. Don't worry about fitting it into the hole through the tunnel - that comes later.
2. Once you have it about half way, it starts getting difficult. From that point I used an extension rod from my 1/4" drive socket set to guide the rubber into place. Basically, you roll the rod around the inside of the boot and push the rubber into the slot from the outside. I used the extension rod because it's round, it doesn't have a point on the end and it can provide a lot more force than my fingers can.
3. Once the boot is in place around the outside of the shifter, go back underneath and loosen the screws on the rear bracket. Undo them as low as they can go without falling off the studs.
4. Go back up top and work the boot into the hole in the tunnel. The tight spot is the passenger side back corner, and with the shifter lowered down, it's a lot easier.
When the boot's in place, wind the shifter bracket nuts back up and loctite them in place.
You're done.
The boot is tight but it can be negotiated if you attack the problem in the right order. Here's what I figured out when I did it:
Before you start putting the boot on, there are two things to note. First, the shifter has to be held firmly in place by the two bracket nuts at the back so it won't move around during the first phase of installing the boot, but don't loctite those nuts until after the boot is on. Second, put the Dynamat sound deadener in place before you install the boot. The second point isn't critical, it's just easier. Then:
1. with the shifter in position, push the boot over the tower and start working it into the groove around the tower by putting your fingers through the hole and flexing it. Don't worry about fitting it into the hole through the tunnel - that comes later.
2. Once you have it about half way, it starts getting difficult. From that point I used an extension rod from my 1/4" drive socket set to guide the rubber into place. Basically, you roll the rod around the inside of the boot and push the rubber into the slot from the outside. I used the extension rod because it's round, it doesn't have a point on the end and it can provide a lot more force than my fingers can.
3. Once the boot is in place around the outside of the shifter, go back underneath and loosen the screws on the rear bracket. Undo them as low as they can go without falling off the studs.
4. Go back up top and work the boot into the hole in the tunnel. The tight spot is the passenger side back corner, and with the shifter lowered down, it's a lot easier.
When the boot's in place, wind the shifter bracket nuts back up and loctite them in place.
You're done.
Last edited by JAJ; 2/29/12 at 11:05 AM.
#72
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Originally Posted by wonger
Use alcohol on the boot. Don't be shy with it. It will act as a lubricant until it evaporates in about 30 seconds. Piece o cake.
#73
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got mine installed. the rubber boot part was a pain in the you know what. everything else was pretty easy, but I had access to a lift and a second pair of hands to help. got mine done in about an hour or so.
I've had it installed since Friday evening, been driving around a bit with it. The shifts are noticeably shorter, and much crisper and firmer. the return springs help tremendously in hitting 3rd gear, it's now next to impossible to miss the 2-3 shift.
However, it's a bit noisier, shifts are louder and it transmits more road noise to the cabin than before, but a loud exhaust or radio and you cant hear it anyways. I'll take the increased NVH given the huge improvements in shifting.
I've had it installed since Friday evening, been driving around a bit with it. The shifts are noticeably shorter, and much crisper and firmer. the return springs help tremendously in hitting 3rd gear, it's now next to impossible to miss the 2-3 shift.
However, it's a bit noisier, shifts are louder and it transmits more road noise to the cabin than before, but a loud exhaust or radio and you cant hear it anyways. I'll take the increased NVH given the huge improvements in shifting.
#74
I Have No Life
Originally Posted by whoah
got mine installed. the rubber boot part was a pain in the you know what. everything else was pretty easy, but I had access to a lift and a second pair of hands to help. got mine done in about an hour or so.
I've had it installed since Friday evening, been driving around a bit with it. The shifts are noticeably shorter, and much crisper and firmer. the return springs help tremendously in hitting 3rd gear, it's now next to impossible to miss the 2-3 shift.
However, it's a bit noisier, shifts are louder and it transmits more road noise to the cabin than before, but a loud exhaust or radio and you cant hear it anyways. I'll take the increased NVH given the huge improvements in shifting.
I've had it installed since Friday evening, been driving around a bit with it. The shifts are noticeably shorter, and much crisper and firmer. the return springs help tremendously in hitting 3rd gear, it's now next to impossible to miss the 2-3 shift.
However, it's a bit noisier, shifts are louder and it transmits more road noise to the cabin than before, but a loud exhaust or radio and you cant hear it anyways. I'll take the increased NVH given the huge improvements in shifting.
#76
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I want to install mgw in my new 5.0, I don't have any issues with my stock shifter or transmission , I recently changed the stock shift boot and **** to boss shift boot and ****, I am feeling more confident in shifting now, I accidentally grinded a couple of times when shifting quickly, can some one post the advantages of mgw over stock, how hard is it to shift with mgw tightened shifter and how much thow reduction I can expect with mgw.
Thanks
Thanks
#77
I Have No Life
Originally Posted by sai
I want to install mgw in my new 5.0, I don't have any issues with my stock shifter or transmission , I recently changed the stock shift boot and **** to boss shift boot and ****, I am feeling more confident in shifting now, I accidentally grinded a couple of times when shifting quickly, can some one post the advantages of mgw over stock, how hard is it to shift with mgw tightened shifter and how much thow reduction I can expect with mgw.
Thanks
Thanks
#78
Shelby GT350 Member
Originally Posted by FromZto5
Hey sai... I'm on my phone app, so searching here sucks. But do a search for my thread about my mgw install. It should discuss it there. Long story short, mgw is a must do over stock.
https://themustangsource.com/f657/mg...ssions-502600/
#79
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Originally Posted by Hytek