Does anyone know if you have to remove the driveshaft to install the Hurst [like I've heard the Steeda shifter requires] ?

What's the install time?

 

Your BA car is screaming for this mod

 

I installed the shifter last Thursday, for me, it took about 90 minuts. As mentioned above, it recommends that the shifter be dropped in from the top side....pheeewww, year right!! Not for me, it would NOT go in the top, no matter the why, or angle I tried..it wasn't happeing!
I was actually able to "massage" it in from the mid-point on the tranny, back to the hole on the console.
My first impresssion, its just a beefed up version of the stocker, throught the install, I dreaded it, I was convined that I would not like itl But....I did. The throws are nice are nice and tight, the urethane bushings helped a bunch. The only thing it lacks is a couple of stops, so not to damage the linkage. But I dont see it being a problem for me.

Just my $.02 worth....

 

...top shifter is Hurst (minus stick and ball)
...Bottom is the stocker's

 

I didn't remove my driveshaft becuase the instructions state it is optional and that's just one more thing I didn't want to muck up.

I was, however, able to manuever it down from the top through the hole in the console/trans tunnel. It did take a while, and I gave up trying to do it myself and got the wife to sit in the car, and work it in from above while I guided it from below. Otherwise, without a helper I probably would have tried maneuvering it in from below. The rear square poly bushing can slide forward on the unit to help clear the hole while you're trying to work it through.

Install time for me took about 2.5 hours but I'm old and slow with a creaky back these daya, plus a big part of that time was spent in making my wood "pre-ramps" and a wooden crutch brace to lock my ramps against the garage wall since they like to slide around on smooth concrete when you start to drive up them. Yikes!

Otherwise, dealing with the little chingaso bolts at the rear flange with a dinkly little wrench took up most of my time and I'd say a good long 10mm DEEP socket to fit over the long studs they're on is an absolute must. My arm just didn't want to fit up there where they were so it was painfully slow going on those two bastids. Otherwise woulda been a cakewalk.

 

Well the Hurst should be here Monday... I can't wait to get rid of that slopy stock shifter!!

BTW: Thank's everyone for thier review's as it helped in my decision!

 

After a few days with it, I love it!!
Many compliments on the handle w/ the white ball, looks great, feels better.

vegasjay, take stoopy's advice w/ the tools, but also get some 1/4 drive extenions...all of them u can gather, the more the better to ratchet from under the d-shaft for those back two bolts, it willl go quicker for u...

 

Thank's 05STG1, will do.

 

Justin a hurst too! I was thinking I had something you didn't. Mine should be installed sometime tomorrow.

 

Cool! Where's your Mod list??

 

Any ideas on how to get rid of the slop between the stick and the opening on the boot? I put on the MRT round **** last night and while I like the new ****, I don't like the way the boot is loose around the stick now. Kind of like throwing a hot dog down the hall way

 

lol..throwing a hotdog down a hallway...

U can try a zip tie from inside the boot, to hold it up on the stick...right around the inside of the boot, cinch it tight, or snug against the stick

Hotdog

 

Well I fixed it First off, I don't mean to hijack this thread on some other tangent, but I'll do it any way
The stock shifter threads are not 1/2 x 20, they are 12Mx1.25 (SN95 shifters are 12Mx1.75 BTW). The jam nut that came with my MRT **** is metric, though a 1/2x20 nut will work if that's all you can get. I bought a 1/2x20 nut, and a washer the same size as the lip of the bottom of the stock shift ****. Put the nut on the stick first, all the way to the bottom, then the washer, then the MRT jam nut, then the new ****. Make sure the **** is positioned correctly, then get the metric nut up against it as tight as you can get, then back the 1/2x20 nut/washer combo into the jam nut. Then pry/wrap the rubber o-ring at the top of the boot around the washer and bam - a nice tight fit and no slop

 

OK you guys convinced me. I ordered the shifter from LM Performance. $215 to my doorstep.

 

LMP is a good company, I've ordered alot from them and thier prices and service have alway's been good...

 

I took a chance on E-bay 189 and change delivered. Guy had a great feedback rating.

 

I saw that one too. Great price, and the feedback was good. Let me know how it turns out.

 

Just got one of ebay for 130, uses the stock ball which I like for some reason.

Does anyone have a pic or know how much taller or shorter the Hurst shifter is (using the stock ball?)

 

Hatch,

Sorry I just saw your post. The one I got from e-bay went fine. I was able to put it in from the top. I actually had more trouble getting the stock shifter out than putting the new one in. A deepwell socket and 18 inches or so of extentions for the 2 10MM nuts really helps. The front mounting bolt was a little difficult to get back in for me.

 

Thanks for the tips! With your's, and everyone else's tips, install went pretty easy.

And to answer my own question, the Hurst using the stock ball sits about 7/8" higher than stock, which I think is perfect.