I always use armor all wax and wash with carnauba wax, (the orange stuff)that tends to relieve very light scratches, but my car is metallic silver and probably hides it better, try it.

 

Thanks for the reply and for the steps to take. I just wasn't sure if I were to fix and clay first. But to wash again after fixing the scratches, I never thought about.
I got some paint from an online auto store, came with the compound, polish, base coat, primer.
This is my first time Im going to detail my car, so I am a little excited and nervous. I never fixed scratches before, so sanding the car is a little scary.
Looking forward to it.

 

I will answer within each question

1.) Which line is typically the more highly regarded in terms of quality (and ease of use, when applicable), Griot's or Adam's?

I like both and use pieces from each. For example, GG's DA is awesome. They make other good products that I use regularly, like their mf pad and towel cleaner and some that I would only use in a pinch vs Adams since advanced auto carries them and Adams is online only. But I mostly use Adams. Lots of people talk about the brands found on Autogeek.com. And it's good stuff. But IMO, Adams quality is superior to all of them. It's just I little hidden in the detailing market, so most people on here don't have exp with them. Mags is by far the best "over the counter" stuff in brick and mortar stores (except for Griots at AA).

2.) I live in the Charlotte, NC area, my 2 month old 2014 Deep Impact Blue (very hard to keep clean) Mustang is my daily driver and parked outside unfortunately. Where I live shares a several hundred foot long gravel (therefore, dusty) driveway with 3 other homes. My cousin (neighbor) has a cat that we can't get to stay off the cars at night. Having said all of that, what are your thoughts on using a car cover to protect from weather, dust and cats? Do car covers potentially do more damage than just leaving it uncovered?

That's a tough question. Car covers can indeed leave scratches. And in my exp, cats walk and jump/land so softly that they leave zero damage on cars. But I have had instances where claws were out. OMG! The mustang was weeks old when we were out front playing with the kids. Garage door was opened and a cat apparently jumped on the trunk lid and when getting down, put the front paws on the left side of the bumper. There were paw pad lines in the dust of it sliding down. Fortunately. No scratches at all. I was freaking out lol.

3.) I have some slight scratches in the finish despite using a 2-bucket wash method, microfiber wash mitt, and microfiber towels for drying since day 1. I have no detailing power tools (although I'd like to get that Porter Cable tool I've seen mentioned so much in this thread), so is there something I could/should do to help get those light scratches out, or do I really need to wait until I have the extra cash for the Porter Cable? I did read the multiple statements about trying to do certain things by hand and the problems/challenges that come with it.

I'll tell you the problem that is overlooked by even the best detailers. Drying. 2 bucket and microfiber mitts and towels are only 50% of the battle when avoiding swirls. The main reason people get swirls, it's from drying believe it or not. They use foam guns, two buckets, etc. and still get them. Then scratch their head as to why. Here's a free tip. You MUST use a drying lubricant. I use AMMO Hydrate which is phenomenal and the best piece in my "tool kit".

4.) Is leaving wax on over night (while parked in a garage) really more beneficial than doing the standard wax on/wax off method? Does it really bond better or add any extra benefit?

Negative. Sealant you want to bond for a few minutes. Wax simple is on and off. This is assuming you are using the proper definitions of these two. Sealant is 100% synthetic. When you hear "wax" it is referring to carnauba. Some companies advertise fully synthetic wax. That's actually not correct and similar to TV companies calling UHD tv's 4k. They are different standards, don't get me started lol. Example, mags ultimate wax and mags gold class carnauba wax. Both marketed as wax, but the ultimate is actually a sealant. The avg joe wouldn't know what that is though. Anyway, I wouldn't leave anything on over night. After a few minutes you are gaining nothing by leaving it on. It just makes it harder to get off.

5.) Thoughts on using one of those silicone water blades for drying? I feel like that would add more blemishes to the finish.

God no! See number 3.

6.) Out of the Turtle Wax Ice products I've listed above, along with the info I provided about the vehicle and it's conditions, if there was ONE product you'd tell me to add or replace in my current line up, what would that be and why?

AMMO Hydrate. And you have to see it for yourself. Why I use it can't be explained in words. But it will solve a lot of your described issues.

7.) Which is more beneficial to achieving as perfect a finish as possible; a polish or a sealant? Whichever the answer is, would this be in addition to waxing or in place of?

Two different things. A polish is a very fine compound for removing haze created by some harsher compounds. It breaks down as you work it and eventually if done correctly is gone. It doesn't leave a layer of anything vs a sealant which does leave a protecting barrier. One thing to add about sealants, they last a lot longer than wax (remember the correct definition of what that is). Yet they don't have as much shine. This is why people seal AND wax, I'm that order, after polishing (if you polish, leveling and polishing is typically only needed on an annual or bi annual basis) since wax leaves a very deep shine.

Most paint issues can be corrected. Don't let them stress you out .

 

Response above.

 

The reason I suggested to wash again is bc it will take about two days to properly cure the paint. You don't want to level and polish until the paint is cured and you NEVER want to level and/or polish without first claying the car. So you'd wash to paint, then wash again to clay to level and polish.

When it comes to paint. I highly recommend dr. color chip. I've used all kinds and the base coat clear coat stuff is very difficult to get the colors to match. The best way would be to actually mix them 80/20 base/clear vs painting one then the other. DCC is one coat (for most of their colors) and matches brilliantly. Plus their removal formula eliminates the need to wet sand in most cases.

 

OK, I'm going nucking futs here. How the hell do I get rid of the smudge marks on my interior glass? I CANNOT get rid of them. I've used a wide variety of glass cleaner (everything from store bought stuff to straight alcohol), and all sorts of microfiber products and newspaper and paper towel. If it actually manages to remove the smudges it leaves a ton of lint behind, and if I follow that up with a glass microfiber cloth I just see the smudges again.

What do I do to get my glass looking nice and clear?

 

Hmmm. What is the smudge? Oil? Make-up? Maybe get it off leaving lint and then blow it off with compressed air.

 

No idea. My Focus was the same way, never had this problem on any of my other cars. The windows also fog up SUPER easy.

 

I've had that issue with all my cars, even the non ford ones. You'll always see stuff in the right light.

 

clay bar?

 

That's a good one then. Hate to say idk. Maybe Marc can chime in? I'd also love to see some pics.

 

To Typesredline and Joeywhat, thank you for taking the time to answer all of my questions and sharing some great information. I feel like throwing all my stuff out and starting over. Lol.

 

In the meantime, I have a few questions:
Both are quality product lines, don't forget that Meguiar's Professional and Detailer lines are also excellent.

Unless the car is totally clean, putting a cover on it will induce scratches.

Take the nozzle off the hose and allow free flowing water to run off. there will be less to dry.Blot the finish as opposed to tossing the microfiber drying towel and dragging it across the finish. Also, you should be following the airflow of he vehicle in both the wash phase. Swirling occurs if you use a circular motion. You can also get some Optimum No Rinse aka ONR and wash the car that way.

No, it doesn't add a benefit. Once it hazes over, do a swipe test. If it comes off easily with nothing left behind, it is ready to remove

5.)They are great for windows, not paintwork!

6.) ONR: it cn be used as a wash media and as a QD.

7.) Polish prepares the surface, waxes and sealants provide protection.

You're welcome!

 

Any ideas on how to fix this? I brought it a body shop and they said it would cost about $700 to fix it.


photo by benbrengman, on Flickr

 

Those paintless dent repair guys can handle that. If you can't find one ask your local dealerships who repairs their dings or hail damages. Probably cost you less than half that estimate.

 

Can't really tell what that is. Is it a ding? If so, a PDR guy could fix it for around $30.

 

It is right on the crease. I will look into the PDR though.

 

Might not be perfect on the crease. But sure won't cost $700 either.

 

FWIW, I paid $500 to have a MAJOR dent + entire rear quarter repainted. The paint matched perfect and the panel looks brand freakin' new. $700 is way too much, especially if it doesn't need any paint.

My dent was right on the crease as well (just other side).

 

Don't know if this is the right place to ask but has anyone else seen these kind of streaks from Meguiars quik wax?

It will not go on without swish marks