I'm thinking he went punnie because of my problem. But than again had I went punnie I would be driving my car.

 

No leakee rear end with my BIG SHAFT
Must be operator error

 

OK some help with Spark Plugs... I have the orginal set HT1 in the car now with the stock gap and the car seems to run fine. So what if I did:

Make the gap on the stockers smaller

Put in my set of HT0 with factory gap

Put in the HT0 with a smaller gap

 

Nice curves......

I already answered this one, smartass..... 3.5" is stronger.

Put in HTO gapped at .032.

 

1 hour, 5 minutes and the old shaft is removed..... time for supper.

 

I already answered this one, smartass..... 3.5" is stronger.



Yeah but that thing weighs a ton @17 lbs!!!!!!

 

Seventeen pounds, who are you kidding?

 

I can't see your hands. FOUL...........................

 

I dont see a picture?

 

Well I'm done for tonight..... I don't have a friggin' 8mm Hex driver thingamabob and I need to pickup a 12mm 12 point socket. I got the 12mm bolts off using my rachet wrench but I need the socket to torque them back down.... I used a 1/4" rachet to drive in the 8mm bolts but certainly can't put much pressure on them or else I'll take the chance of stripping them.

So tomorrow I'll pickup these 2 things and hope to get'er done.

 

Tom, Sounds like your on your way!....Just don't tear the rear end out of your car like oldmach1dude did!....

 

Remember I told you that you needed 12 point sockets. But where do you need an 8mm hex driver thingamabobby at? My bolts where either 10mm on one end and 12 mm on the other.

 

Yeah I know you told me... I thought I had one but I don't. The bolts that attach the adaptor to the flange are similar to the ones supplied with the Prothane mounts- that's why I need the hex.

 

Oh I got it. Speaking of the Prothane Bolts. Do you remember what size hex bolts you bought to replace the Prothane bolt with? Like M10x ? x how long. Dummy me. I didn't measure them before I put them in. Also, I got another question for you. Do you think those Prothane mounts can be removed by just unbolting them and raising the engine? Without pulling off the big mounting brackets from the engine? Reason I ask is I was thinking about machining them to lower the engine back down to stock height.

 

I think it was M10 or M12..... M12 sounds right but don't quote me. All I did was take the Prothane bolts in to the hardware store and matched them up in thread, and length.

As far as removing the mounts without the removing the brackets, I don't know how your's is but that won't work with mine- the headers, etc. are in the way.

 

Yeah.. I just wasn't sure since they did not have the stud in them like the stock motor mounts do that you might be about to roll them out from underneath the car. Even though I have dropped the front edge of my shaker back down to the original height it still seems like the hood is putting pressure on the shaker unit in the rear.

 

Hey Tom here is some good reading

http://www.mustangforums.com/m_4442137/tm.htm

 

Gee thanks Darrell......


By the way how's that leaky Saleen? Seems like Scott has a leaky rear shaft, and you have a leaky intake- have you had your nose up Scott's a$$ again?

 

 

And you can't put your shaft on so.............


Here check this out

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Carbo...QQcmdZViewItem