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Revell-Monogram 1:25 2006 GT

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Old Nov 6, 2005 | 04:44 PM
  #21  
dustindu4's Avatar
9 is not my lucky number.
 
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The hobby store I went to had probably 500 different colors there
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Old Nov 6, 2005 | 04:49 PM
  #22  
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I'm just going to use touch up paint from the dealership.
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Old Nov 6, 2005 | 05:28 PM
  #23  
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9 is not my lucky number.
 
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Originally posted by f1-cobra@November 6, 2005, 6:52 PM
I'm just going to use touch up paint from the dealership.

I'm not sure how well that works, it won't look good.
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Old Nov 6, 2005 | 05:33 PM
  #24  
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Originally posted by dustindu4@November 6, 2005, 7:31 PM
I'm not sure how well that works, it won't look good.
Yeah, the touch up paint would be made for the metal body, not a plastic model.
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Old Nov 6, 2005 | 10:38 PM
  #25  
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Don't worry. It'll work. The paint on this model is from the same can that's on the car.
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Old Nov 7, 2005 | 12:39 AM
  #26  
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They're in!

http://forums.bradbarnett.net/index.php?showtopic=37962
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Old Nov 7, 2005 | 06:11 AM
  #27  
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From: The Alamo
Anyone not going to use the black decal stripes?? I need em!!
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Old Nov 7, 2005 | 07:41 AM
  #28  
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Originally posted by StangNut@November 7, 2005, 12:41 AM
Don't worry. It'll work. The paint on this model is from the same can that's on the car.

All you need to do is your surface prep first (removing mold lines,etc.) wash and dry the parts, use Krylon grey sandable primer in light coats (this does not attack styrene plastics), wetsand between coats using extrafine sanding film, wash and tack cloth surface, reduce touchup paint with lacquer thinner, 50-50% and airbrush color (again in light coats), finishing with clear lacquer or urethane (if you can get it-ALSO BE SURE TO WEAR A MASK!!)

This will give you a really good finish.

Will post pics of several models I have used this process on.

BTW-nice job on that one!!
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Old Nov 7, 2005 | 08:05 AM
  #29  
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Don't use lacquer paint on plastic, it will crinkle the plastic surface and make it look like leather.

Use enamal on plastics.
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Old Nov 7, 2005 | 12:37 PM
  #30  
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Originally posted by King Cobra@November 7, 2005, 10:08 AM
Don't use lacquer paint on plastic, it will crinkle the plastic surface and make it look like leather.

Use enamal on plastics.

If you follow the instructions in my post the lacquer will not craze the styrene.

Just a little reinforcement on my previous post-no malice intended.
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Old Nov 7, 2005 | 03:23 PM
  #31  
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From: Colorado
got mine in today! still deciding what color to paint it...nice to kno i have something to do over winter break if i dont get it done sooner
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Old Nov 7, 2005 | 07:32 PM
  #32  
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9 is not my lucky number.
 
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paint it the color of your Honda!
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Old Nov 7, 2005 | 07:41 PM
  #33  
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What color's his Honda?
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Old Nov 7, 2005 | 08:22 PM
  #34  
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Pics of Tamiya's Cobra R in Laser Red and Monogram's Cobra convertible in Mystic.
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Old Nov 7, 2005 | 08:24 PM
  #35  
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9 is not my lucky number.
 
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Originally posted by StangNut@November 7, 2005, 9:44 PM
What color's his Honda?
Rust?

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Old Nov 7, 2005 | 09:17 PM
  #36  
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From: Colorado
Originally posted by dustindu4@November 7, 2005, 9:27 PM
Rust?


ohhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh :nono: Ouch! It's white. I think I'll do my Mustang in Vista Blue or Redfire
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Old Nov 8, 2005 | 06:05 AM
  #37  
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9 is not my lucky number.
 
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I'm just busting ya. I had a 1991 Camry and an 89 Camry before that and they were rust buckets

Redfire is better
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Old Nov 8, 2005 | 11:47 AM
  #38  
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I get mine tonight! It's a birthday present, but I took my friend to a hobby store to "show" him where to find it LOL.

I second Tiberius' comment about factory paint. It CAN be used with a good primer. Model car primer is crap. I used Ford Wimbleton/Mercury Polar White on my Cougar model. There are many shades of white, it had to be right. I think it took three or four kits to get all the right parts: engine, interior, body, boot.
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Old Nov 8, 2005 | 01:34 PM
  #39  
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From: Austin TX
Originally posted by Tiberius1701@November 7, 2005, 8:44 AM
All you need to do is your surface prep first (removing mold lines,etc.) wash and dry the parts, use Krylon grey sandable primer in light coats (this does not attack styrene plastics), wetsand between coats using extrafine sanding film, wash and tack cloth surface, reduce touchup paint with lacquer thinner, 50-50% and airbrush color (again in light coats), finishing with clear lacquer or urethane (if you can get it-ALSO BE SURE TO WEAR A MASK!!)

Abolutely - prepping/priming the surface is the key. It's a bit of a pain but if done well you can get the best possible finish. Using an airbrush will yield best results IMHO, but for those of you who don't have an airbrush you *can* buy touch up paint already in a spray can to use. It's a little on the pricey side, but considering a good airbrush set up can be well over $100 bucks the spray can option might be a good alternative option. Just follow the directions in Tiberius' post and use the spray can instead of the airbrush. Also as he says finish with the clear lacquer or urethane and DEFINITELY work in a well ventilated area with a mask, and also if you are outside watch out for where the overspray goes, don't want it blowing all over your house and car!

You can get the paint already in a can at www.paintscratch.com or similar places, it'll look a bit odd once you spray the model but once it's clearcoated it should match just right.

One other issue about using car paints is scale, the tiny bits of metal flake on cars appears small on a real car but on a model the metal flakes look too big. That effect isn't a problem on larger scale cars but may appear more apparent as the scale gets smaller. With solid colors like black, white, red, and yellow this isn't really an issue though.

Now I think I'm gonna head off to the hobby shop and find a few of these to put together :-)
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Old Nov 8, 2005 | 01:40 PM
  #40  
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I used the spray can from Autozone. It worked well.
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