2005-2009 Mustang S-197 Installed Blue LEDs in factory switches (lots of pics)
I really want to do this because I want to red LED my interior.. however I know for a fact I would not accomplish this properly. I have neither the tools or electric know-how. LOL. Ah well. All the work done by fellow members is inspiring to say the least. They all look amazing.
I used 300mcds in mine. Try this place
Mouser would likely have what your after [RetroLane] as well. Plenty to choose from. Dimensions should be around 3.2mm x 2.8mm. You can filter by the mcd, size, type(PLCC-2), and color (even wavelength) you wish to get.
I used mouser´s selection of LED´s to do my 4-guage non-mycolor dash recently as I finally decided to Deric-up my mustang (known from mp3car boards).


Crappy pic, but it was night, and I drink too much caffeine. As you can see I still haven´t gotten a color gel to change the mileage display color, but I´ll do it shortly.
If anyone is looking to do this I did post a walk-thru on it here on another mustang site. Just uses 4 contact PLCC-4´s instead. About $0.70 each.
Last edited by wayne613; Jan 28, 2011 at 04:25 AM.
Oh, and btw, the fog lights use a 2.8-3.2v LED again, same as the main LED swap (factory in-line resistor). So you can cut the stand-off for it down slightly and put an SMD one on the tip, or run a true replacement.
For sanding down the front of the light-switch itself, there is a tab down inside the center column once you´ve pulled the back piece to the switch (after you have it on the bench) to get the front push/pull (for those of us with fogs) switch to release. Using an eye-glass flat-screwdriver will do it if you´re careful to pull the plastic molding away slightly from the tab.
Be careful, as it is flimsy, busted mine, but a bit of gorilla-glue in there when I got done cured that.
Once it´s sanded to clear, can´t think why I´d ever wish to get back in there.
And...For those needing to figure out what ohm resistor to use, check out the LED calculator here. So long as you have the draw, voltage of the led you have, you should be set. Usually 470 ohm is what your after for a 3v, but this should verify it for you.
For sanding down the front of the light-switch itself, there is a tab down inside the center column once you´ve pulled the back piece to the switch (after you have it on the bench) to get the front push/pull (for those of us with fogs) switch to release. Using an eye-glass flat-screwdriver will do it if you´re careful to pull the plastic molding away slightly from the tab.
Be careful, as it is flimsy, busted mine, but a bit of gorilla-glue in there when I got done cured that.
Once it´s sanded to clear, can´t think why I´d ever wish to get back in there.And...For those needing to figure out what ohm resistor to use, check out the LED calculator here. So long as you have the draw, voltage of the led you have, you should be set. Usually 470 ohm is what your after for a 3v, but this should verify it for you.
Last edited by wayne613; Feb 12, 2011 at 03:08 AM.
[QUOTE=wayne613;6012243]
For sanding down the front of the light-switch itself, there is a tab down inside the center column once you´ve pulled the back piece to the switch (after you have it on the bench) to get the front push/pull (for those of us with fogs) switch to release. Using an eye-glass flat-screwdriver will do it if you´re careful to pull the plastic molding away slightly from the tab.
Be careful, as it is flimsy, busted mine, but a bit of gorilla-glue in there when I got done cured that.
Once it´s sanded to clear, can´t think why I´d ever wish to get back in there.QUOTE]
I've never been able to get the push/pull **** to release without breaking it...wish there were a better way.
RH
For sanding down the front of the light-switch itself, there is a tab down inside the center column once you´ve pulled the back piece to the switch (after you have it on the bench) to get the front push/pull (for those of us with fogs) switch to release. Using an eye-glass flat-screwdriver will do it if you´re careful to pull the plastic molding away slightly from the tab.
Be careful, as it is flimsy, busted mine, but a bit of gorilla-glue in there when I got done cured that.
Once it´s sanded to clear, can´t think why I´d ever wish to get back in there.QUOTE]I've never been able to get the push/pull **** to release without breaking it...wish there were a better way.
RH
You can also get them from here http://www.sdmustangaccessories.com/lights---hids.php
Would these work?? http://www.oznium.com/shopping_cart
Try this link sorry http://www.oznium.com/plcc-2
Try this link sorry http://www.oznium.com/plcc-2
On the foglight switch....you don't have to sand the green from the inside of the switch. A cotton swap with some fingernail polish remover wipes it clean in just a couple strokes.
RH
You can also get them from here http://www.sdmustangaccessories.com/lights---hids.php
RH
Okay so I tried to change out the window switch lights and the red ones worked for a while then I had to fidget with the through the hole bulbs to try and make them fit properly and they stopped working the bulbs are identical to the ones before and have tried multiple times with more light but now I can't get any power the window switch still works I can roll both windows up and down with no problem just can't get any light
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