View Poll Results: Do you prefer us lobbing Potatoes or Grenades to take care of spammers?
Lob potatoes to just stun them
2
16.67%
Lob grenades and remove them from the TMS pool permanently
10
83.33%
Voters: 12. You may not vote on this poll
Mustangs Coast to Coast
11/15/14, 11:09 AM
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Join Date: December 14, 2007
Location: State of Jefferson Mountains USA
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Paying property tax today... and appealing.
One parcel/tax lot is 5 acres - land value increased $7650 or 7.9%. Probably in line with valuations increasing this year.
Another adjoining parcel is 1 acre - land value increased $7650 or 30%.
Another adjoining parcel is 1 acre - land value increased $7650 or 30%.
7650 across the board regardless of acreage??
Looks like some a-hole at the County just pulled numbers out of their ***! And the County Commissioners are going to hear about it!
One parcel/tax lot is 5 acres - land value increased $7650 or 7.9%. Probably in line with valuations increasing this year.
Another adjoining parcel is 1 acre - land value increased $7650 or 30%.
Another adjoining parcel is 1 acre - land value increased $7650 or 30%.
7650 across the board regardless of acreage??
Looks like some a-hole at the County just pulled numbers out of their ***! And the County Commissioners are going to hear about it!
11/15/14, 01:14 PM
11/15/14, 01:43 PM
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11/15/14, 03:40 PM
Join Date: December 5, 2006
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Slept for 10.5 hours last night. Took a 2 hour nap this afternoon. And now I feel like falling asleep again. I think my body is going into hibernation.
11/15/14, 04:00 PM
Join Date: December 5, 2006
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11/15/14, 06:30 PM
Legacy TMS Member
11/15/14, 08:03 PM
Join Date: December 5, 2006
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11/16/14, 11:02 AM
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My F150 started leaking fuel out the bottom of the carb onto the manifold. 
At first I thought it was the float sticking so I tried some carb cleaner, light tapping on the side of the carb while idling, and then driving down a washboard road really fast. 
(Hey always try the easy way first!)
Next I planned on checking/adjusting the float by removing the top cover. And next would be a rebuild kit. Read online that leaking on this carb is usually the accelerator pump seals worn out. So I had a rebuild kit shipped in and hoped to replace just the pump by only removing the cover, but no go. Can't get the link from the pump to the throttle butterfly undone without removing the whole carb.
So removed it, brought it inside, only replaced the accelerator pump and gaskets rather than a full rebuild and redoing all the adjustments. The adjustments were fine before so why mess with it? One of the pump seals felt really dry and came off too easy so it appeared to be the source of the leaking.
Checked the float level - which I had to guess between experience and the specs from the directions... because the float on mine is a different shape than the one in the directions.
Took the measurements in the directions to scale and extrapolated that to my float, keeping in mind the old rule of thumb of "turn the housing upside down and the seam on the float should be level with the housing". So my compromise guestimate is halfway between and slightly lower than being level with the housing. If I'm starving on fuel its easy to get to the float and adjust later, but since its winter and freezing out, I just need to get it running "good enough" (not leaking) for now. (Naturally this couldn't have happened when it was 80* out.)
Poured some fuel in, put the cover back on. By now its dark and I'm doing this via clamp on work light. Crawled in the engine bay (I love an I6!), bolted the carb back on with new fuel filter, hooked all the stuff up.
Drum roll........
YES!!! Fired right up! Good at idle, good on the highway, and no leaks!!
Back on the road for winter! 
.
At first I thought it was the float sticking so I tried some carb cleaner, light tapping on the side of the carb while idling, and then driving down a washboard road really fast. (Hey always try the easy way first!)Next I planned on checking/adjusting the float by removing the top cover. And next would be a rebuild kit. Read online that leaking on this carb is usually the accelerator pump seals worn out. So I had a rebuild kit shipped in and hoped to replace just the pump by only removing the cover, but no go. Can't get the link from the pump to the throttle butterfly undone without removing the whole carb.
So removed it, brought it inside, only replaced the accelerator pump and gaskets rather than a full rebuild and redoing all the adjustments. The adjustments were fine before so why mess with it? One of the pump seals felt really dry and came off too easy so it appeared to be the source of the leaking.
Checked the float level - which I had to guess between experience and the specs from the directions... because the float on mine is a different shape than the one in the directions.
Took the measurements in the directions to scale and extrapolated that to my float, keeping in mind the old rule of thumb of "turn the housing upside down and the seam on the float should be level with the housing". So my compromise guestimate is halfway between and slightly lower than being level with the housing. If I'm starving on fuel its easy to get to the float and adjust later, but since its winter and freezing out, I just need to get it running "good enough" (not leaking) for now. (Naturally this couldn't have happened when it was 80* out.)Poured some fuel in, put the cover back on. By now its dark and I'm doing this via clamp on work light. Crawled in the engine bay (I love an I6!), bolted the carb back on with new fuel filter, hooked all the stuff up.
Drum roll........
YES!!! Fired right up! Good at idle, good on the highway, and no leaks!!
Back on the road for winter! .
11/16/14, 12:40 PM
Legacy TMS Member
My F150 started leaking fuel out the bottom of the carb onto the manifold. At first I thought it was the float sticking so I tried some carb cleaner, light tapping on the side of the carb while idling, and then driving down a washboard road really fast. (Hey always try the easy way first!) Next I planned on checking/adjusting the float by removing the top cover. And next would be a rebuild kit. Read online that leaking on this carb is usually the accelerator pump seals worn out. So I had a rebuild kit shipped in and hoped to replace just the pump by only removing the cover, but no go. Can't get the link from the pump to the throttle butterfly undone without removing the whole carb. So removed it, brought it inside, only replaced the accelerator pump and gaskets rather than a full rebuild and redoing all the adjustments. The adjustments were fine before so why mess with it? One of the pump seals felt really dry and came off too easy so it appeared to be the source of the leaking. Checked the float level - which I had to guess between experience and the specs from the directions... because the float on mine is a different shape than the one in the directions. Took the measurements in the directions to scale and extrapolated that to my float, keeping in mind the old rule of thumb of "turn the housing upside down and the seam on the float should be level with the housing". So my compromise guestimate is halfway between and slightly lower than being level with the housing. If I'm starving on fuel its easy to get to the float and adjust later, but since its winter and freezing out, I just need to get it running "good enough" (not leaking) for now. (Naturally this couldn't have happened when it was 80* out.) Poured some fuel in, put the cover back on. By now its dark and I'm doing this via clamp on work light. Crawled in the engine bay (I love an I6!), bolted the carb back on with new fuel filter, hooked all the stuff up. Drum roll........ YES!!! Fired right up! Good at idle, good on the highway, and no leaks!! Back on the road for winter! .
At first I thought it was the float sticking so I tried some carb cleaner, light tapping on the side of the carb while idling, and then driving down a washboard road really fast. (Hey always try the easy way first!) Next I planned on checking/adjusting the float by removing the top cover. And next would be a rebuild kit. Read online that leaking on this carb is usually the accelerator pump seals worn out. So I had a rebuild kit shipped in and hoped to replace just the pump by only removing the cover, but no go. Can't get the link from the pump to the throttle butterfly undone without removing the whole carb. So removed it, brought it inside, only replaced the accelerator pump and gaskets rather than a full rebuild and redoing all the adjustments. The adjustments were fine before so why mess with it? One of the pump seals felt really dry and came off too easy so it appeared to be the source of the leaking. Checked the float level - which I had to guess between experience and the specs from the directions... because the float on mine is a different shape than the one in the directions. Took the measurements in the directions to scale and extrapolated that to my float, keeping in mind the old rule of thumb of "turn the housing upside down and the seam on the float should be level with the housing". So my compromise guestimate is halfway between and slightly lower than being level with the housing. If I'm starving on fuel its easy to get to the float and adjust later, but since its winter and freezing out, I just need to get it running "good enough" (not leaking) for now. (Naturally this couldn't have happened when it was 80* out.) Poured some fuel in, put the cover back on. By now its dark and I'm doing this via clamp on work light. Crawled in the engine bay (I love an I6!), bolted the carb back on with new fuel filter, hooked all the stuff up. Drum roll........ YES!!! Fired right up! Good at idle, good on the highway, and no leaks!! Back on the road for winter! .Nice! Good job!! Can you imagine me trying to track down a fuel leak with these EFI computer controlled engines?!
11/16/14, 01:02 PM
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Join Date: December 14, 2007
Location: State of Jefferson Mountains USA
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11/16/14, 01:07 PM
My F150 started leaking fuel out the bottom of the carb onto the manifold. At first I thought it was the float sticking so I tried some carb cleaner, light tapping on the side of the carb while idling, and then driving down a washboard road really fast. (Hey always try the easy way first!)
Next I planned on checking/adjusting the float by removing the top cover. And next would be a rebuild kit. Read online that leaking on this carb is usually the accelerator pump seals worn out. So I had a rebuild kit shipped in and hoped to replace just the pump by only removing the cover, but no go. Can't get the link from the pump to the throttle butterfly undone without removing the whole carb.
So removed it, brought it inside, only replaced the accelerator pump and gaskets rather than a full rebuild and redoing all the adjustments. The adjustments were fine before so why mess with it? One of the pump seals felt really dry and came off too easy so it appeared to be the source of the leaking.
Checked the float level - which I had to guess between experience and the specs from the directions... because the float on mine is a different shape than the one in the directions. Took the measurements in the directions to scale and extrapolated that to my float, keeping in mind the old rule of thumb of "turn the housing upside down and the seam on the float should be level with the housing". So my compromise guestimate is halfway between and slightly lower than being level with the housing. If I'm starving on fuel its easy to get to the float and adjust later, but since its winter and freezing out, I just need to get it running "good enough" (not leaking) for now. (Naturally this couldn't have happened when it was 80* out.)
Poured some fuel in, put the cover back on. By now its dark and I'm doing this via clamp on work light. Crawled in the engine bay (I love an I6!), bolted the carb back on with new fuel filter, hooked all the stuff up.
Drum roll........
YES!!! Fired right up! Good at idle, good on the highway, and no leaks!! Back on the road for winter!
.
At first I thought it was the float sticking so I tried some carb cleaner, light tapping on the side of the carb while idling, and then driving down a washboard road really fast. (Hey always try the easy way first!)Next I planned on checking/adjusting the float by removing the top cover. And next would be a rebuild kit. Read online that leaking on this carb is usually the accelerator pump seals worn out. So I had a rebuild kit shipped in and hoped to replace just the pump by only removing the cover, but no go. Can't get the link from the pump to the throttle butterfly undone without removing the whole carb.
So removed it, brought it inside, only replaced the accelerator pump and gaskets rather than a full rebuild and redoing all the adjustments. The adjustments were fine before so why mess with it? One of the pump seals felt really dry and came off too easy so it appeared to be the source of the leaking.
Checked the float level - which I had to guess between experience and the specs from the directions... because the float on mine is a different shape than the one in the directions.
Took the measurements in the directions to scale and extrapolated that to my float, keeping in mind the old rule of thumb of "turn the housing upside down and the seam on the float should be level with the housing". So my compromise guestimate is halfway between and slightly lower than being level with the housing. If I'm starving on fuel its easy to get to the float and adjust later, but since its winter and freezing out, I just need to get it running "good enough" (not leaking) for now. (Naturally this couldn't have happened when it was 80* out.)Poured some fuel in, put the cover back on. By now its dark and I'm doing this via clamp on work light. Crawled in the engine bay (I love an I6!), bolted the carb back on with new fuel filter, hooked all the stuff up.
Drum roll........
YES!!! Fired right up! Good at idle, good on the highway, and no leaks!!
Back on the road for winter! .
Gonna have to do something to the 70 soon, its leaking fuel when its cold but quits as soon as it warms up. Looks like its coming from the front bowl area.
11/16/14, 01:17 PM
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I realize yours is prob a 4 barrel, but see the green plastic thing in the pic? That holds and actuates the accelerator pump, and where the green thing goes to the right you can see that rectangle O-ring? That was really dried out and practically fell off.
I barely started the truck this summer, and usually I'd have to crank it 3 or 4 times because the fuel had evaporated out of the bowl, and the mechanical fuel pump would have to refill the bowl. Which I think dried that O-ring out. So I'm definitely going to start and at least drive it to the mailbox once a week this next summer.
If you're not starting the 70 very often, it might be that easy of an explanation... and fix. I didn't get into the jets or anything. Just replaced the accelerator pump and gaskets.
Last edited by cdynaco; 11/16/14 at 01:21 PM.
11/16/14, 01:31 PM
Could be where the fuel line attaches? I've had those leak before. Usually a metal line with a compression type fitting.
I realize yours is prob a 4 barrel, but see the green plastic thing in the pic? That holds and actuates the accelerator pump, and where the green thing goes to the right you can see that rectangle O-ring? That was really dried out and practically fell off.
I barely started the truck this summer, and usually I'd have to crank it 3 or 4 times because the fuel had evaporated out of the bowl, and the mechanical fuel pump would have to refill the bowl. Which I think dried that O-ring out. So I'm definitely going to start and at least drive it to the mailbox once a week this next summer.
If you're not starting the 70 very often, it might be that easy of an explanation... and fix. I didn't get into the jets or anything. Just replaced the accelerator pump and gaskets.
I realize yours is prob a 4 barrel, but see the green plastic thing in the pic? That holds and actuates the accelerator pump, and where the green thing goes to the right you can see that rectangle O-ring? That was really dried out and practically fell off.
I barely started the truck this summer, and usually I'd have to crank it 3 or 4 times because the fuel had evaporated out of the bowl, and the mechanical fuel pump would have to refill the bowl. Which I think dried that O-ring out. So I'm definitely going to start and at least drive it to the mailbox once a week this next summer.
If you're not starting the 70 very often, it might be that easy of an explanation... and fix. I didn't get into the jets or anything. Just replaced the accelerator pump and gaskets.
Last edited by Rather B.Blown; 11/16/14 at 01:34 PM.
11/16/14, 03:21 PM
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At a local dealership not sure this is worth it? It only has 52 miles on it? 
Last edited by Mustang Freak; 11/16/14 at 03:23 PM.
11/16/14, 03:35 PM
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So that has dual floats in the front and rear bowls right? That tube is the actual fuel line to the back bowl from that front inlet? The large brass nut is where the internal filter is right?
Never really worked on a Holley. My 442 had one like that but all I ever did was adjust it.
Last edited by cdynaco; 11/16/14 at 03:43 PM.