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Old 3/20/11, 08:59 PM
  #53041  
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Originally Posted by 2k7gtcs
Honestly I'd be afraid to. You 2010+ guys really know how to hold a grudge.
Old 3/20/11, 09:02 PM
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I know.


Honestly it's not worth buying a GT500 or a Boss just to be accepted by those tards.



No offense Lee.
Old 3/20/11, 09:21 PM
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I painted (epoxy) my new garage/shop floor today. I had to work fast to get 1000 sq.ft. down before it set up to much. I got a good first coat on today just before sunset. I spent most of the day still waiting for the floor to dry from pressure washing it yesterday. I put a finish coat on it tomorrow hopefully and in 21 days I will be able to put cars on it.

I went with a Sherwin-Williams product called Tile-Clad. It's an industrial marine epoxy that can be used for clean rooms and even nuclear plants. I should have about a 8 mil thick floor when done. It's a 57% solid epoxy spanned it's not water based either so it's not fun to work with, but I'm hoping for a stronger and more professional result.

The quickrete and armor all stuff I used before was definitely a failure after a few months.
Old 3/20/11, 09:27 PM
  #53044  
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Originally Posted by 2k7gtcs
I painted (epoxy) my new garage/shop floor today. I had to work fast to get 1000 sq.ft. down before it set up to much. I got a good first coat on today just before sunset. I spent most of the day still waiting for the floor to dry from pressure washing it yesterday. I put a finish coat on it tomorrow hopefully and in 21 days I will be able to put cars on it.

I went with a Sherwin-Williams product called Tile-Clad. It's an industrial marine epoxy that can be used for clean rooms and even nuclear plants. I should have about a 8 mil thick floor when done. It's a 57% solid epoxy spanned it's not water based either so it's not fun to work with, but I'm hoping for a stronger and more professional result.

The quickrete and armor all stuff I used before was definitely a failure after a few months.


It really does make for a great looking easy to keep clean garage. How long has the floor been poured? I would have figured you would have to wait a year or so before you could seal it.


One thing I saw that I liked was a MB dealer near here has a heated tile floor in their shop. Even their tech's get fancy working conditions.
Old 3/20/11, 09:38 PM
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The specs say 28 days on fresh concrete. Mine is about 5 months old.

I thought I had a really smooth floor, but I don't. It's amazing how many impurities show on the floor when you begin rolling paint on it.

I went with gloss finish and no flakes. It'll be slick as hell but it ought to look darn good.

Best part is I went with Ford Blue as my color.
Old 3/20/11, 09:45 PM
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Originally Posted by 2k7gtcs
The specs say 28 days on fresh concrete. Mine is about 5 months old.

I thought I had a really smooth floor, but I don't. It's amazing how many impurities show on the floor when you begin rolling paint on it.

I went with gloss finish and no flakes. It'll be slick as hell but it ought to look darn good.

Best part is I went with Ford Blue as my color.
When we lived down in TN we had a shop in the back for the race car, trailer and such. When it was built they poured a double thick floor for a lift and the used one of those ride on concrete power trowels. We never had it sealed or anything but I know when it rained and we pulled wet vehicles in on the floor we would have a ton of puddles form and you could see how un-level it really was, yet it looked a flat as a board.
Old 3/20/11, 09:48 PM
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I wish now I had poured the floor a little thicker where the lift is going, but they say 4" thick is ok as long as it's 3000psi concrete or better. With a little luck there will be a concrete beam in that spot, hopefully I don't hit any rebar, because that would suck!
Old 3/20/11, 09:54 PM
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Originally Posted by 2k7gtcs
I wish now I had poured the floor a little thicker where the lift is going, but they say 4" thick is ok as long as it's 3000psi concrete or better. With a little luck there will be a concrete beam in that spot, hopefully I don't hit any rebar, because that would suck!
I think ours was something like 6 inches thick. My father kinda goes overkill with stuff, but he didn't want any cracks in the floor from our RV. Our driveway was also "double" thick and I bet close to 20' wide, going back up to that garage. What I wouldn't do to have that garage here at this house.
Old 3/20/11, 09:55 PM
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Well I'm off to bed, 5AM comes fast and it's already 12 here. Talk to ya lata.
Old 3/20/11, 10:05 PM
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Originally Posted by 2k7gtcs
The specs say 28 days on fresh concrete. Mine is about 5 months old.

I thought I had a really smooth floor, but I don't. It's amazing how many impurities show on the floor when you begin rolling paint on it.

I went with gloss finish and no flakes. It'll be slick as hell but it ought to look darn good.

Best part is I went with Ford Blue as my color.
That slickness would never work for me. I wash my cars inside and I'd end up slipping a busting my ****. Just what I need, a broken hip.
Old 3/20/11, 10:08 PM
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I still wash outside and the floor should never be wet other than rain off of a car. I like having a really, really clean garage floor. I mop frequently. I mop the garage more than the kitchen.
Old 3/20/11, 10:26 PM
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Originally Posted by 2k7gtcs
I painted (epoxy) my new garage/shop floor today. I had to work fast to get 1000 sq.ft. down before it set up to much. I got a good first coat on today just before sunset. I spent most of the day still waiting for the floor to dry from pressure washing it yesterday. I put a finish coat on it tomorrow hopefully and in 21 days I will be able to put cars on it.

I went with a Sherwin-Williams product called Tile-Clad. It's an industrial marine epoxy that can be used for clean rooms and even nuclear plants. I should have about a 8 mil thick floor when done. It's a 57% solid epoxy spanned it's not water based either so it's not fun to work with, but I'm hoping for a stronger and more professional result.

The quickrete and armor all stuff I used before was definitely a failure after a few months.


You spent all day waiting on water to dry!

That's gonna be step one when I finally get a place, can't stand stained cement. And it's a heck of a lot easier to tell where possible leaks are coming from when the floor's sealed.


Originally Posted by 2k7gtcs
Best part is I went with Ford Blue as my color.


Originally Posted by 2k7gtcs
I still wash outside and the floor should never be wet other than rain off of a car. I like having a really, really clean garage floor. I mop frequently. I mop the garage more than the kitchen.
nothing that bugs me more than a dirty shop! Especially dirty tools, I should not have to wear gloves to keep from getting grimy hands working with a flippin ratchet!
Old 3/20/11, 10:30 PM
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Originally Posted by StangMahn


You spent all day waiting on water to dry!

Will its not like I sat there and watched it dry.

I cleaned all the windows in the shop and garage while I waited. With all the paint overspray and brick mortar on them it takes a razor blade and patience ro get them invisible.
Old 3/20/11, 10:35 PM
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Originally Posted by 2k7gtcs
Will its not like I sat there and watched it dry.

I cleaned all the windows in the shop and garage while I waited. With all the paint overspray and brick mortar on them it takes a razor blade and patience ro get them invisible.

oddly enough, I was talking with a friend of mine about that exact topic, getting windows on fresh construction projects clean

(his parents own a major cleaning company, not like we were talking about it for fun, lol)
Old 3/20/11, 10:40 PM
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My pops ordered a 2011 F150 Ecoboost Friday.

He was tired of the Explorer Sporttrac getting 11 mpg. So he's getting a Supercrew Platinum in silver. 2WD.

Oddly enough i noticed that the Ecoboost F150s have an offset front license plate to leave room for airflow into the heat exchanger.
Old 3/20/11, 11:35 PM
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Originally Posted by 2k7gtcs
It's an industrial marine epoxy that can be used for clean rooms ..... and even nuclear plants.
Well now that was timely... how does it work for containment domes? Any guaranteed tsunami protection??
Old 3/21/11, 02:38 AM
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Originally Posted by Antigini-GT/CS
Are you going to paint/put it on right away?
No I am gonna store it cuz I still have a long road ahead on the car. I might even have to modify the hood with a taller cowl to "hide" all my goodies under it.

Originally Posted by pony racer
Just got back from the track a few hours ago..

CLICK ME!!!
@109 mph. riding the limiter for about 200'
That was a good pass!!

I cant wait till I am out doing that in mine.
Old 3/21/11, 03:42 AM
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been at work for 45 minutes already.....eesh.
Old 3/21/11, 06:21 AM
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Originally Posted by 07S197
Thanks for the compliments everyone, I finally really like how the car looks, The wheels really did finish it off well. This summer I think all I'm going to do is get the windows tinted.
Car looks awesome already, but will look even better with the tint. What's the legal limit there and how dark are you going to go?

Originally Posted by denlem
Check out this thread. You'll see my install of the show n go plate holder.

https://themustangsource.com/f691/ne...holder-464294/
Thanks, Dennis I can't wait for a decent day so I can get my SHR rear deck panel on that Santa brought me
Old 3/21/11, 07:53 AM
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Originally Posted by 08GTCandyApple
Car looks awesome already, but will look even better with the tint. What's the legal limit there and how dark are you going to go?
MA law is 35%, and that's what I'll go with anyhow. It's just enough to make a difference without being too much. I had 35% on my Grand Prix and like how it looked. A lot of people feel the darker the better but with the color of this car I think anything darker might throw off the "tone". Geesh now I just sound crazy.


Hey Gary, what did you use for the inside window wipers so they wouldn't scrach the tint? I have a roll of mole skin I was going to use like TacoBill did, but I was thinking of just ordering 08+ window wipers that are felt.


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