View Poll Results: Do you prefer us lobbing Potatoes or Grenades to take care of spammers?
Lob potatoes to just stun them
2
18.18%
Lob grenades and remove them from the TMS pool permanently
9
81.82%
Voters: 11. You may not vote on this poll
Mustangs Coast to Coast
1/21/11, 09:43 PM
Join Date: December 5, 2006
Location: Trapped in Minnesota
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You wouldn't believe the amount of hate I left out of that speech. 
1/21/11, 11:05 PM
Join Date: December 5, 2006
Location: Trapped in Minnesota
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I'm doing spanish homework that was due six minutes ago. 
1/21/11, 11:10 PM
Join Date: December 5, 2006
Location: Trapped in Minnesota
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Get to talk about diversity in my community now. Triple woot!
NOTE SARCASM!
NOTE SARCASM!
1/22/11, 02:23 PM
Tasca Super Boss 429 Member
Why the #$%# do remotes for remote starters have to be so expensive?
A couple weeks ago I couldn't remote start the Trailblazer. I put a new battery in the remote, still no worky. I grabbed the 2nd remote, and it worked. Well, less then 2 weeks later, that one stopped working. I put a new battery in that one and still no go. Now both remotes don't work.
Took a trip down to the store I bought/installed it from and the lady there couldn't program it so she sent me to their other store that does the installs and have a tech look at it. Well, it turns out that both remotes did go bad within 2 weeks of each other.
A replacement remote is going to cost $89.00.
Just like razor blades and printer ink, that is WAY OVERPRICED. No way I can afford that right now, nor do I want to pay that much for a remote, but without it what good is the starter?
So on the way home I stopped back at the original store to let her know that the remotes were bad and to see if they had anything cheaper or used in stock. She found an original one like mine that was new, but that was still $59.00. I explained my financial woes and said I saw a used one on eBay for $20 that I would have to get instead.
She wanted to try the new remote to see if she could program it, but failed. The igntion on-on/brake/toggle switch sequence is tricky when programming and couldn't get it. Neither could I.
As she was giving up, she handed me the new remote and told me to try the option of programming that I knew how to do by accessing the module tucked away under the dash. She understood that times were tough and merry "late" Christmas.
So, i got home and in the 20º weather out here today, I got out my sockets and pulled down the knee panel and accessed the starter module, attempted to program it, and tadaaaa! It worked! Just in time too since it's gonna be 10 below zero here Mon and Tues nights.
That was very nice of her and something she didn't have to do. There are still some decent businesses out there that care about and take care of their customers. Just figured I'd share.
A couple weeks ago I couldn't remote start the Trailblazer. I put a new battery in the remote, still no worky. I grabbed the 2nd remote, and it worked. Well, less then 2 weeks later, that one stopped working. I put a new battery in that one and still no go. Now both remotes don't work.
Took a trip down to the store I bought/installed it from and the lady there couldn't program it so she sent me to their other store that does the installs and have a tech look at it. Well, it turns out that both remotes did go bad within 2 weeks of each other.
A replacement remote is going to cost $89.00.
Just like razor blades and printer ink, that is WAY OVERPRICED. No way I can afford that right now, nor do I want to pay that much for a remote, but without it what good is the starter?
So on the way home I stopped back at the original store to let her know that the remotes were bad and to see if they had anything cheaper or used in stock. She found an original one like mine that was new, but that was still $59.00. I explained my financial woes and said I saw a used one on eBay for $20 that I would have to get instead.
She wanted to try the new remote to see if she could program it, but failed. The igntion on-on/brake/toggle switch sequence is tricky when programming and couldn't get it. Neither could I.
As she was giving up, she handed me the new remote and told me to try the option of programming that I knew how to do by accessing the module tucked away under the dash. She understood that times were tough and merry "late" Christmas.
So, i got home and in the 20º weather out here today, I got out my sockets and pulled down the knee panel and accessed the starter module, attempted to program it, and tadaaaa! It worked! Just in time too since it's gonna be 10 below zero here Mon and Tues nights.
That was very nice of her and something she didn't have to do. There are still some decent businesses out there that care about and take care of their customers. Just figured I'd share.
1/22/11, 02:50 PM
Bullitt Member
Join Date: May 25, 2010
Location: Madison, AL
Posts: 292
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Why the #$%# do remotes for remote starters have to be so expensive?
A couple weeks ago I couldn't remote start the Trailblazer. I put a new battery in the remote, still no worky. I grabbed the 2nd remote, and it worked. Well, less then 2 weeks later, that one stopped working. I put a new battery in that one and still no go. Now both remotes don't work.
Took a trip down to the store I bought/installed it from and the lady there couldn't program it so she sent me to their other store that does the installs and have a tech look at it. Well, it turns out that both remotes did go bad within 2 weeks of each other.
A replacement remote is going to cost $89.00.
Just like razor blades and printer ink, that is WAY OVERPRICED. No way I can afford that right now, nor do I want to pay that much for a remote, but without it what good is the starter?
So on the way home I stopped back at the original store to let her know that the remotes were bad and to see if they had anything cheaper or used in stock. She found an original one like mine that was new, but that was still $59.00. I explained my financial woes and said I saw a used one on eBay for $20 that I would have to get instead.
She wanted to try the new remote to see if she could program it, but failed. The igntion on-on/brake/toggle switch sequence is tricky when programming and couldn't get it. Neither could I.
As she was giving up, she handed me the new remote and told me to try the option of programming that I knew how to do by accessing the module tucked away under the dash. She understood that times were tough and merry "late" Christmas.
So, i got home and in the 20º weather out here today, I got out my sockets and pulled down the knee panel and accessed the starter module, attempted to program it, and tadaaaa! It worked! Just in time too since it's gonna be 10 below zero here Mon and Tues nights.
That was very nice of her and something she didn't have to do. There are still some decent businesses out there that care about and take care of their customers. Just figured I'd share.
A couple weeks ago I couldn't remote start the Trailblazer. I put a new battery in the remote, still no worky. I grabbed the 2nd remote, and it worked. Well, less then 2 weeks later, that one stopped working. I put a new battery in that one and still no go. Now both remotes don't work.
Took a trip down to the store I bought/installed it from and the lady there couldn't program it so she sent me to their other store that does the installs and have a tech look at it. Well, it turns out that both remotes did go bad within 2 weeks of each other.
A replacement remote is going to cost $89.00.
Just like razor blades and printer ink, that is WAY OVERPRICED. No way I can afford that right now, nor do I want to pay that much for a remote, but without it what good is the starter?
So on the way home I stopped back at the original store to let her know that the remotes were bad and to see if they had anything cheaper or used in stock. She found an original one like mine that was new, but that was still $59.00. I explained my financial woes and said I saw a used one on eBay for $20 that I would have to get instead.
She wanted to try the new remote to see if she could program it, but failed. The igntion on-on/brake/toggle switch sequence is tricky when programming and couldn't get it. Neither could I.
As she was giving up, she handed me the new remote and told me to try the option of programming that I knew how to do by accessing the module tucked away under the dash. She understood that times were tough and merry "late" Christmas.
So, i got home and in the 20º weather out here today, I got out my sockets and pulled down the knee panel and accessed the starter module, attempted to program it, and tadaaaa! It worked! Just in time too since it's gonna be 10 below zero here Mon and Tues nights.
That was very nice of her and something she didn't have to do. There are still some decent businesses out there that care about and take care of their customers. Just figured I'd share.
1/22/11, 05:33 PM
Post *****
Join Date: December 14, 2007
Location: State of Jefferson Mountains USA
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Okay Gary, this is what I found.
First made sure the needle was zero'd, then when I connected it went negative and pegged the meter.
So after a few tries I thought I'd reset the needle to like 100 to see how much it would decline.
As I'm grabbing the screwdriver I thought about changing the leads. Doubted it would work because a meter doesn't know if its a red or black wire right?
Apparently wrong.
Because when I reversed the leads I got a positive reading. The angle of the camera makes it look like 56, but in person looking straight down it shows 55 straight up.
Again, I just started mine up this week after setting in the garage for 60 days. Though it fired right up, it sounded a tad weaker so I think that's about the safe extent for my battery.
First made sure the needle was zero'd, then when I connected it went negative and pegged the meter.
So after a few tries I thought I'd reset the needle to like 100 to see how much it would decline.
As I'm grabbing the screwdriver I thought about changing the leads. Doubted it would work because a meter doesn't know if its a red or black wire right?
Apparently wrong.
Because when I reversed the leads I got a positive reading. The angle of the camera makes it look like 56, but in person looking straight down it shows 55 straight up.Again, I just started mine up this week after setting in the garage for 60 days. Though it fired right up, it sounded a tad weaker so I think that's about the safe extent for my battery.
Last edited by cdynaco; 1/22/11 at 06:37 PM.
1/22/11, 05:41 PM
Bullitt Member
Join Date: May 25, 2010
Location: Madison, AL
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Okay Gary, this is what I found.
First made sure the needle was zero'd, then when I connected it went negative and pegged the meter.
So after a few tries I thought I'd reset the needle to like 100 to see how much it would decline.
As I'm grabbing the screwdriver I thought about changing the leads. Doubted it would work because a meter doesn't know if its a red or black wire right?
Apparently wrong. Because when I reversed the leads I got a positive reading. The angle of the camera makes it look like 61 or 62, but in person looking straight down it shows 60 straight up.
Again, I just started mine up this week after setting in the garage for 60 days. Though it fired right up, it sounded a tad weaker so I think that's about the safe extent for my battery.
First made sure the needle was zero'd, then when I connected it went negative and pegged the meter.
So after a few tries I thought I'd reset the needle to like 100 to see how much it would decline.
As I'm grabbing the screwdriver I thought about changing the leads. Doubted it would work because a meter doesn't know if its a red or black wire right?
Apparently wrong.
Because when I reversed the leads I got a positive reading. The angle of the camera makes it look like 61 or 62, but in person looking straight down it shows 60 straight up.Again, I just started mine up this week after setting in the garage for 60 days. Though it fired right up, it sounded a tad weaker so I think that's about the safe extent for my battery.
1/22/11, 05:47 PM
Bullitt Member
Join Date: May 25, 2010
Location: Madison, AL
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Check your headlight circuit. It may not be a short to ground, but a short to another power circuit/wire. I know it sounds strange but a simular thing happened to me.
1/22/11, 06:06 PM
Post *****
Thread Starter
Thanks Charlie!
That was awesome of you to do.
I just spent a couple of hours on it and with everything connected and plugged in I am down to 114mA.
How do I check the headlight switch?
What's weird is that there is no fuse in either the junction box or the distribution box for the headlights. The fog lights and high beams have a fuse. So where is that fuse so i can pull it and test it?
That was awesome of you to do.
I just spent a couple of hours on it and with everything connected and plugged in I am down to 114mA.
How do I check the headlight switch?
What's weird is that there is no fuse in either the junction box or the distribution box for the headlights. The fog lights and high beams have a fuse. So where is that fuse so i can pull it and test it?
1/22/11, 06:16 PM
Post *****
Join Date: December 14, 2007
Location: State of Jefferson Mountains USA
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If mine has a short then why is my battery the good one? It has never come close to dying during winter storage for 3 winters now.
PS: I do have factory HID's and active alarm. Though all the doors were closed so no lights would be on and key out of the ignition like Gary wanted, there would still be an active (would I say open?) circuit for the infrared and other sensors, correct? There's that red light that blinks when the car is off and the motion sensor and perhaps the dusk sensor too that automatically turns the dash lights on.
1/22/11, 06:30 PM
The Legacy TMS Lady
That was really nice of her Dennis. I know I'm getting spoiled using the remote starter in the 250 since I've been driving it all week. We are expecting more winter weather on Tuesday so it looks like I will be driving that most of next week too.
1/22/11, 06:31 PM
Post *****
Thread Starter
I know my biggest problem was with the fuse box I made in the trunk for the added gt500 fuel pump. I plugged it back in and the meter stayed on 2.0A for well over 2 minutes. Who knows how long that was going on. Hopefully I am back to the days when the car would last at least two weeks.
1/22/11, 06:31 PM
Post *****
Join Date: December 14, 2007
Location: State of Jefferson Mountains USA
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I'm trying to remember Bullitt threads about the fogs. If I remember correctly, the headlight wiring harness includes the fog circuit (why change that from a stock GT) but no switch. So that would make me think maybe your fog circuit is combined with the low beams also - as a base circuit?
Funny! I googled "fog light wiring harness in Bullitt imboc" and my anti-imboc signature came up SECOND in the entire universe! Wicked cool!
hahahahahahahahaha 
That'll teach those dorks to screw with us Missouri boys! hahahahahaha
Last edited by cdynaco; 1/22/11 at 11:02 PM.
1/22/11, 06:39 PM
Post *****
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OOOPS! I was misreading the meter. Each hash mark is 5.
CORRECTED EDIT: The angle of the camera makes it look like 56, but in person looking straight down it shows 55 straight up.
So it that good, bad, within range?
CORRECTED EDIT: The angle of the camera makes it look like 56, but in person looking straight down it shows 55 straight up.
So it that good, bad, within range?
1/22/11, 06:42 PM
Post *****
Thread Starter
From what I understand that is a good healthy number. Should be around 50 mA from what I've read. I was hoping it would be a little more, but that was wishful thinking. Now I know I'm looking for 50 as opposed to 114. At least its better than the 450 I started with!
1/22/11, 06:57 PM
The Legacy TMS Lady
Question for you Gary. Are you able to post in IV from your iPad? I was just going to post but my keyboard didn't come up
1/22/11, 07:06 PM
Bullitt Member
Join Date: May 25, 2010
Location: Madison, AL
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Are you talking to me or Gary?
If mine has a short then why is my battery the good one? It has never come close to dying during winter storage for 3 winters now.
PS: I do have factory HID's and active alarm. Though all the doors were closed so no lights would be on and key out of the ignition like Gary wanted, there would still be an active (would I say open?) circuit for the infrared and other sensors, correct? There's that red light that blinks when the car is off and the motion sensor and perhaps the dusk sensor too that automatically turns the dash lights on.
If mine has a short then why is my battery the good one? It has never come close to dying during winter storage for 3 winters now.
PS: I do have factory HID's and active alarm. Though all the doors were closed so no lights would be on and key out of the ignition like Gary wanted, there would still be an active (would I say open?) circuit for the infrared and other sensors, correct? There's that red light that blinks when the car is off and the motion sensor and perhaps the dusk sensor too that automatically turns the dash lights on.
1/22/11, 07:37 PM
Post *****
Thread Starter
