2012-2013 BOSS 302

Brake upgrades for the track after reviews

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Old 3/29/12 | 04:54 PM
  #521  
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Originally Posted by Overboost
I'm trying to remember the name of the brake hose brand someone mentioned that has the metal reinforcement? I thought I had that in a thread somewhere.
If you mean at the banjo bolt connection points, GOODRIDGE!
Old 3/29/12 | 04:59 PM
  #522  
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Originally Posted by 06GT

If you mean at the banjo bolt connection points, GOODRIDGE!
I'm sorry i meant brake duct hoses.
Old 3/29/12 | 10:54 PM
  #523  
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Originally Posted by Overboost
I'm sorry i meant brake duct hoses.
Sorry no help there.

Maybe they were talking about dryer ducting
Old 3/30/12 | 08:12 AM
  #524  
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Originally Posted by Overboost
I'm sorry i meant brake duct hoses.
I remember the post you were talking about and it is killing me that I can't find it. I thought it might have linked to a aviation webpage but i could be wrong. Anyways I believe this is the ducting but you definitely don't need 12ft like they show on this website. Wish I could find that other post....

http://www.hosecraftusa.com/model/FD...ated_Duct_Hose
Old 3/30/12 | 10:35 AM
  #525  
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Originally Posted by mtnbikefuel80

I remember the post you were talking about and it is killing me that I can't find it. I thought it might have linked to a aviation webpage but i could be wrong. Anyways I believe this is the ducting but you definitely don't need 12ft like they show on this website. Wish I could find that other post....

http://www.hosecraftusa.com/model/FD...ated_Duct_Hose
I think it was aviation hose. I seem to remember the name being short, like 4 letters long.
Old 3/30/12 | 11:08 AM
  #526  
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http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/appages/sceet.php

SCEET aircraft ducting
Old 3/30/12 | 02:53 PM
  #527  
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Originally Posted by mammothcar1
YES! Thank you! The name eluded me for a few days now.
Old 3/30/12 | 04:34 PM
  #528  
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Originally Posted by Overboost
YES! Thank you! The name eluded me for a few days now.
You're welcome!
Off by only letter...not bad.
Old 3/30/12 | 08:04 PM
  #529  
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Up till now I have not completely toasted any rotors on the track, so this is a first for me. For those guys that have been tracking a while is this typical of how the track rotors crack? This is a rear Cyro Powerslot with 20 days plus some street miles.


Old 3/30/12 | 09:07 PM
  #530  
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Originally Posted by 2012YellowBoss
Up till now I have not completely toasted any rotors on the track, so this is a first for me. For those guys that have been tracking a while is this typical of how the track rotors crack? This is a rear Cyro Powerslot with 20 days plus some street miles.
Yep. 20 days isn't bad for rears. It's great for fronts
Old 3/30/12 | 09:26 PM
  #531  
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Originally Posted by cloud9
Yep. 20 days isn't bad for rears. It's great for fronts
Great, thanks for the info
Old 3/31/12 | 02:00 AM
  #532  
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Originally Posted by cloud9
Yep. 20 days isn't bad for rears. It's great for fronts
I second that. Looking good!
Old 4/1/12 | 11:39 AM
  #533  
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Thanks to everyone who posted on this thread - this is invaluable info. I've now tried the PFC01/97 combo, and I am very impressed. Seems to wear well so far, not harsh on the rotors at all, and can tear your face off when you really get on them.
Old 4/1/12 | 12:14 PM
  #534  
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Originally Posted by fuhrius

Shaun,

did you dual duty with the 01's?

I ran PFC 97's dual duty on my last track / street car (though it was a lighter car...a boxster)...had about 10 track days and 5k street miles and the pads still had about 50% material remaining. I had no degredation of braking performance on the street - though some very mild squealing - and the were great on track.
I NEVER double duty pads EVER.
Old 4/1/12 | 09:41 PM
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I run my race pads & rotors on the street with no problem!!
Old 4/1/12 | 10:19 PM
  #536  
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Originally Posted by Poolman482
I run my race pads & rotors on the street with no problem!!
Not a good idea

I think it was in this thread I outlined the dangers (increased stopping distance on street) and costs (accelerated rotor wear when you use race brakes at cold temps) in detail.

Last edited by Stinger1982; 4/1/12 at 10:28 PM.
Old 4/1/12 | 10:39 PM
  #537  
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just so u know I am 50th, been doing this for 30 plus yrs. All that stuff about race pads not working on the street is bull****!!!
Old 4/1/12 | 10:42 PM
  #538  
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Originally Posted by Poolman482
just so u know I am 50th, been doing this for 30 plus yrs. All that stuff about race pads not working on the street is bull****!!!
I've learned to stop arguing which people on this forum. Regardless of what the engineers who made things say. (because I have discussed this with PFC engineers at Grand Am events) or what experts in the field in question say TMS members always know better.


Yes they physically stop the car on the street you are correct.
Old 4/1/12 | 10:55 PM
  #539  
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Hey Shaun, I am arguing but, all the experts say race pads don't work. I live in SoCal it's warm here maybe that's way. hate to say it but if it's below 60 thats cold.
Old 4/2/12 | 04:47 AM
  #540  
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Originally Posted by Poolman482
Hey Shaun, I am arguing but, all the experts say race pads don't work. I live in SoCal it's warm here maybe that's way. hate to say it but if it's below 60 thats cold.
Why don't you do your homework? Contact Performance Friction (or your track brake pad manufacturer) and ask them if they recommend you use those pads on the street. If you email them, copy the email and post it in here.

Originally Posted by Poolman482
just so u know I am 50th, been doing this for 30 plus yrs. All that stuff about race pads not working on the street is bull****!!!
What does age have to do with it? That doesn't mean you could have been doing it wrong for years. Just because I've swung a golf club for 30 years doesn't make me an expert.

Last edited by Overboost; 4/2/12 at 05:06 AM.


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