Brake Duct Kit Installation
GT Member
Joined: May 10, 2011
Posts: 176
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From: Austin, TX
Jimmy's Instructions - Part 2 (Right Side)
As promised, here is the rest of my write-up, submitted for peer review.
Instructions for the Right (Passenger) Side:
Instructions for the left (driver) side of the car apply to the right (passenger) side of the car, except that instead of relocating the horn (Step 5), you might want to relocate the windshield washer reservoir. This requires some additional hardware (available at your favorite big box hardware store):
For the left side mount, first remove the stud by sliding it to the right and then pulling it out. From the backside, thread the new long bolt through the same hole, making sure that you use a washer to keep it from pulling through. Thread the nylon spacer onto the bolt, followed by the mounting tab of the reservoir. Secure with a washer and locking nut.
For the right side, thread the new long bolt (and washer) through the front of the mounting tab, then through the nylon spacer, and then tighten into the speed-nut that is in the factory mounting location.
For the upper mount, drill the upper mounting tab and secure using the factory hardware and mounting point. Press the washer pump back into the reservoir and refill.
This the location of the filler neck after the relocation.
Moving the windshield washer reservoir just 1″ allowed enough clearance for the brake cooling hose.
Test and Verify Fitment!
After a couple of days, I checked the fitment of the kit and discovered that on the right side, the wheel had come in contact with the hose and pushed it under a part of the body that then began to saw into the hose. So, I cut the tie wrap that secured the hose to the body, but left the hose tie-wrapped to the front sway bar. This allowed the hose to sit lower and avoid contact with the body. Things move around in there and it wouldn’t take much to destroy an expensive cooling hose, so go for a test drive and then verify that there is still adequate clearance.
Instructions for the left (driver) side of the car apply to the right (passenger) side of the car, except that instead of relocating the horn (Step 5), you might want to relocate the windshield washer reservoir. This requires some additional hardware (available at your favorite big box hardware store):
- (2) M6-1.0 x 50 mm bolts
- (3) 6 mm flat washers
- (1) 6 mm lock nut
- (2) 1/2 x .194 x 1″ nylon spacer (I had to drill these out a bit to fit the M6 bolts.)
- Drill
For the left side mount, first remove the stud by sliding it to the right and then pulling it out. From the backside, thread the new long bolt through the same hole, making sure that you use a washer to keep it from pulling through. Thread the nylon spacer onto the bolt, followed by the mounting tab of the reservoir. Secure with a washer and locking nut.
For the right side, thread the new long bolt (and washer) through the front of the mounting tab, then through the nylon spacer, and then tighten into the speed-nut that is in the factory mounting location.
For the upper mount, drill the upper mounting tab and secure using the factory hardware and mounting point. Press the washer pump back into the reservoir and refill.
This the location of the filler neck after the relocation.
Moving the windshield washer reservoir just 1″ allowed enough clearance for the brake cooling hose.
Test and Verify Fitment!
After a couple of days, I checked the fitment of the kit and discovered that on the right side, the wheel had come in contact with the hose and pushed it under a part of the body that then began to saw into the hose. So, I cut the tie wrap that secured the hose to the body, but left the hose tie-wrapped to the front sway bar. This allowed the hose to sit lower and avoid contact with the body. Things move around in there and it wouldn’t take much to destroy an expensive cooling hose, so go for a test drive and then verify that there is still adequate clearance.
Cobra Member
Joined: May 22, 2010
Posts: 1,065
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From: Texas
why move the washer res, the hoses route right into the gap very easily. i left the extra tubing because at was obvious when i fully turned the wheels each way that the extra hose was needed or there woudl be too much pressure on the connections during full turn-in. granted we rarely turn the wheels all the way in.
took the car racing and my somewhat ghetto duct tape to get the ducts to grip idea worked perfectly and stayed put. it's also worth noting that i climbed back under the car after the install and moving the wheels around, noted where the orange was rubbing on the plastic under the car, and then used a couple rounds of tape to prevent the hosing from being cut over time.
took the car racing and my somewhat ghetto duct tape to get the ducts to grip idea worked perfectly and stayed put. it's also worth noting that i climbed back under the car after the install and moving the wheels around, noted where the orange was rubbing on the plastic under the car, and then used a couple rounds of tape to prevent the hosing from being cut over time.
Due to clearance issues in there, I use the poor-man's impact wrench--15mm box end wrench and a rubber mallet to break the caliper bolts loose, then a ratchet to get em out.
Takes less than 5 mins, I do this before and after every track event as well.
Takes less than 5 mins, I do this before and after every track event as well.
GT Member
Joined: May 10, 2011
Posts: 176
Likes: 0
From: Austin, TX
(Shane) As for moving the reservoir and cutting hoses - if you don't have to do it, don't do it. We have seen from other reports that we are each experiencing various levels of interference. Maybe it has to do with our individual tolerances and definitions of what constitutes "a good fit." I bet you that our hose lengths aren't the same, either.
Jimmy
GTR Member
Joined: September 28, 2009
Posts: 6,284
Likes: 1
I started installing my kit today. Regarding the hose, I actually bought some at the Roush sale last year and ended up using it. It looks similar to the Sceet stuff that was posted before, and went on the flanges much easier than the FRPP supplied stuff. I spent a few hours with the g/f helping and got the drivers side buttoned up. I did end up cutting the fender liner a bit, and on the horn bracket, I removed the tab, then removed the horns, flipped the bracket 180*, and reattached the horns in the same orientation. It moved them up just enough to make it through.
For the pass. side, I'm going to have to cut the liner a bit, and possibly put some spacers on the washer bottle to clear. I should be able to finish it up in the morning.
Just out of curiousity, does anyone have the part numbers for the fog light inserts that are totally blocked off? If anyone feels like selling a set, I may be interested. I'm considering running them in the winter to protect snow/ice from going into the hoses.
For the pass. side, I'm going to have to cut the liner a bit, and possibly put some spacers on the washer bottle to clear. I should be able to finish it up in the morning.
Just out of curiousity, does anyone have the part numbers for the fog light inserts that are totally blocked off? If anyone feels like selling a set, I may be interested. I'm considering running them in the winter to protect snow/ice from going into the hoses.
Bullitt Member
Joined: July 1, 2011
Posts: 279
Likes: 0
From: SD
Steve,
Glad the install is going well.
On the pass. side, I stacked washers onto the bolt. Others got bushings from the hardware store.
As for winter driving, look at what I did on this thread. Just buy some black plastic plumbing fittings and slip them in. I run it this way when not on a track. Cheap, easy.
https://themustangsource.com/f813/br...s-made-499783/
Glad the install is going well.
On the pass. side, I stacked washers onto the bolt. Others got bushings from the hardware store.
As for winter driving, look at what I did on this thread. Just buy some black plastic plumbing fittings and slip them in. I run it this way when not on a track. Cheap, easy.
https://themustangsource.com/f813/br...s-made-499783/
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