Here is the pic after removing it. I zip tied it to the sway bar after taking this pic:

 

The inserts are a plastic piece which contains the foglight (or theoretical foglight in the BOSS). It just pops into the lower facia once the oem insert is removed. The kit instructions show the insert which already has a hole in it (thus no need to cut the oem one) which is what was left out of my kit. This is what ford sent me after I called them. You should not have to order any other facia as the insert just pops into where the oem piece went.
Hope this helps!

 

Rick... why don't you come over and install mine once you are done. Same state... shouldn't be too far of a drive

Should have mine Wednesday and will be installing it this weekend (NASA event the following weekend). Gotta get more air to a) radiator and b) brakes

 

What radiator did you get?

 

M-8005-MGT. You want to buy my M-8005-MBR (OEM Boss Radiator)?

 

Or mine How about a reverse auction






Anyway, if anyone else is interested, I'll have one for sale next week. It's substantially bigger than the GT radiator.

 

Already have a cheap Mishimoto one in (PITA to install, but I'm sure no more difficult than the FRPP one).

So the Boss is upgraded from the GT, but the M-8005-MGT (FR500S) is another step up?

Does it have increased coolant capacity?

 

The capacity of the Boss radiator is greater than the GT. The -MGT is upgraded with a dual aluminum core and aluminum side tanks. The regular Boss radiator has plastic side tanks.

 

Race car for the street, and plastic radiator?

The Mishimoto is similar, I believe, to the Ford, just a whole lot cheaper.

 

Great pic. I saw your thread on the other forum - very informative. You paved the way for the rest of us.

 

Sure, but let me do mine first.
By the way, I hit 250 engine temp several times according to the ODB interface at HPR last Friday. Over temp light on, gauge pegged but, no limp mode. But I decided to back off and let 'er cool down. Interesting thing is that it cools very quickly - like within 1 to 2 minutes its down to 235 while driving at sub 5k rpms.
Rick

 

Do you have to remove the entire front bumper cover? Or just the wheel well and splitter plastic?

 

You don't have to remove the fron bumper. Just remove the pushpins from underneath.
Remove plastic covers from underneath, and then the lower facia is removed from the front. (It slides out.)

 

Or you can just pop out the fog openings by pushing them out of the lower fascia.

 

It does recover quickly. Good news that it didn't go into limp mode. I assume it didn't blow coolant? Just an FYI to all if you're not aware, the radiator caps on our cars have a "one-time" seal. If you blow them, they won't seal again. You can hear them seeping if you have the car running and up to temp. Replacements are like $8 from your dealer, so I'd recommend anyone tracking their car to bring at least one spare.

 

A thought I had after I finished my install tonight, if I had cut off the raised portion of the metal tube on the backing plate, I think the duct would have slipped over the tube without pulling the wire out of the tube. Also, the duct misses the tires by about 1/2 inch when turned completely. I will be trying them out this friday at a track event. Hopefully they work!

 

You're better off taking the wire out and using the raised part of the tube to "lock" the hose against that feature with the clamp.

 

 

Just finished my brake cooling kit installation. Some observations:

1. The kit did not include the fog-light inserts with the holes already cut. No big deal for me. 2-5/8" hole saw fit perfectly with very little dremel clean up required. Note: Cutting that black ABS makes a BIG mess. Little black buggers everywhere. Wear eye protection and do it somewhere other than your wife's kitchen table

2. I did not have to remove the fender liners. Popped the two speed-serts on each fender and 3 screws (two black along the edge of the fender and one silver underneath near the splitter). Gave me plenty of room to get my arm in to pop out the fog light inserts.

3. I bent the horn up using brute strength

4. Right backing plate (Marked with an 'R' and on the passenger side) needed some grinding as it was barely making contact with the ABS exciter ring. 5 minutes with the Dremel, a shot of paint and it was perfect.

5. By far, the worst part of the install (about 2 hours in my garage with the front on jackstands) was getting the hose over the backing plate. I ended up cutting each ring of wire in 2 places (so, 12 o'clock and 6 o'clock) with my dykes and then pulling the wire out of the hose. Made for many holes in my hands, but seemed to work well. 4 rings gave 1.5" which was enough to cover the entire inlet.

6. No other issues

 

Did you have to cut the fender liner to route the hoses? Pics?