Brake duct port covers made
Brake duct port covers made
Want to cover your brake duct ports when off track?
This is so easy a caveman could do it.
And it costs about $10.
Go to your home improvement store and buy two 2" female thread to male slip on connectors, and two 2" slip on caps.
Slide them together (glue not needed), and gently push them into the duct ports.
They fit snug. Don't jamb them in too hard or it may be difficult to remove them.
The benzel face is not square to the port tube, so the outer edge of the cover will stick out a bit from the benzel face.
Remove them at the track by grabbing the edges and rocking back and forth to back it out a bit, then remove it.
Last weekend on the way to the Sturgis Mustang Rally the entire front of my Boss was covered w/ grasshoppers so thick the black plastic was barely visible. The plugs kept all that crap from getting into the brakes.
Over 2,000 miles, and they've never fallen out.
So if you have the duct kit installed and daily drive your Boss, you may want to make a set.


This is so easy a caveman could do it.
And it costs about $10.
Go to your home improvement store and buy two 2" female thread to male slip on connectors, and two 2" slip on caps.
Slide them together (glue not needed), and gently push them into the duct ports.
They fit snug. Don't jamb them in too hard or it may be difficult to remove them.
The benzel face is not square to the port tube, so the outer edge of the cover will stick out a bit from the benzel face.
Remove them at the track by grabbing the edges and rocking back and forth to back it out a bit, then remove it.
Last weekend on the way to the Sturgis Mustang Rally the entire front of my Boss was covered w/ grasshoppers so thick the black plastic was barely visible. The plugs kept all that crap from getting into the brakes.
Over 2,000 miles, and they've never fallen out.
So if you have the duct kit installed and daily drive your Boss, you may want to make a set.


Last edited by SD GT; Sep 13, 2011 at 10:24 AM.
I was planning on going with Caplugs. Just need to find the right size and style.
I am thinking maybe these ones.
I am thinking maybe these ones.
Last edited by PTRocks; Sep 10, 2011 at 05:04 PM.
Originally Posted by 2012YellowBoss
Dam-it who gave you the Authoritah to think things up here, you only have 64 posts

(good job though
I have to do this
Wayne, I don't know where you got the parts. I ran down to Home Depot and they did not have the exact pieces you showed, plus the stuff they had were only white.
I did see this, soft rubber called 2" quick caps. They fit well, just need to see how they work out on the street. Little different but still a great idea you started

I did see this, soft rubber called 2" quick caps. They fit well, just need to see how they work out on the street. Little different but still a great idea you started


Scott,
Got mine at Lowes.
They have white PVC and black too.
The white caps are domed a bit whereas the black are flat.
But as long as you've got something to keep bugs/rocks/etc out of the brakes, you're in good shape.
If I can remember, I'll pull the UPC code off of them Tuesday. But my memory is pretty short.
Got mine at Lowes.
They have white PVC and black too.
The white caps are domed a bit whereas the black are flat.
But as long as you've got something to keep bugs/rocks/etc out of the brakes, you're in good shape.
If I can remember, I'll pull the UPC code off of them Tuesday. But my memory is pretty short.
Jimmy,
Wouldn't that be armadillo srikes down there in TX?
Of course they'd thump pretty good.
A few years ago I lived on the edge of San Antonio, and always saw armadillo road kill.
Wouldn't that be armadillo srikes down there in TX?
Of course they'd thump pretty good.
A few years ago I lived on the edge of San Antonio, and always saw armadillo road kill.
Sorry little fella.

Jimmy
I went to Lowe's this afternoon and bought the parts but bought a different smaller piece, not as deep, as you did. Any concern about getting the pieces stuck in there? Just playing around with it I almost couldn't get them out. I'll post photos later of the pieces I'm using.
Want to cover your brake duct ports when off track?
This is so easy a caveman could do it.
And it costs about $10.
Go to your home improvement store and buy two 2" female thread to male slip on connectors, and two 2" slip on caps.
Slide them together (glue not needed), and gently push them into the duct ports.
They fit snug. Don't jamb them in too hard or it may be difficult to remove them.
The benzel face is not square to the port tube, so the outer edge of the cover will stick out a bit from the benzel face.
Remove them at the track by grabbing the edges and rocking back and forth to back it out a bit, then remove it.
Last weekend on the way to the Sturgis Mustang Rally the entire front of my Boss was covered w/ grasshoppers so thick the black plastic was barely visible. The plugs kept all that crap from getting into the brakes.
Over 2,000 miles, and they've never fallen out.
So if you have the duct kit installed and daily drive your Boss, you may want to make a set.



This is so easy a caveman could do it.
And it costs about $10.
Go to your home improvement store and buy two 2" female thread to male slip on connectors, and two 2" slip on caps.
Slide them together (glue not needed), and gently push them into the duct ports.
They fit snug. Don't jamb them in too hard or it may be difficult to remove them.
The benzel face is not square to the port tube, so the outer edge of the cover will stick out a bit from the benzel face.
Remove them at the track by grabbing the edges and rocking back and forth to back it out a bit, then remove it.
Last weekend on the way to the Sturgis Mustang Rally the entire front of my Boss was covered w/ grasshoppers so thick the black plastic was barely visible. The plugs kept all that crap from getting into the brakes.
Over 2,000 miles, and they've never fallen out.
So if you have the duct kit installed and daily drive your Boss, you may want to make a set.



Caveman Charley
Here are the pieces I purchased. Same cap but different other piece. I'm worried about the piece getting stuck in there so I'm going to add a cap head screw or bolt to the center so I can grab them with a pair of pliers if needed. I'll post a photo when I finish adding the screw or bolt.
Rick,
The longer back piece I have prevents them from getting stuck too deep.
Did the store you went to sell those?
Check the white PVC stuff too. They may have the threaded to smooth connector made of that, and being white doesn't matter because you won't see it installed.
Or try the rubbery cap Scott got. I don't think they're any longer, but may sit in there better.
Or try wrapping electrical tape around them to snug them up.
If you want to add something to pull them out, here's some choices:
- hardware store, black plastic ball ~1/2" w/ brass threaded insert; attach w/ screw
- #6 or #8 machine screw; drill hole in center of cap, thread it w/ tap, turn screw into it with head on outside of cap; use 2 nuts on end of screw and tighten the nuts together. During normal use, turn screw all the way in and snug onto cap. To remove cap, run screw out so nuts are against inside of cap and pull plug out. The nuts on the end of the screw prevent ripping threads out of cap. Cutting threads in plastic allows the screw to be turned in snug so it doesn't flop around. Easier to do than explain. I painted the screw heads black, but that wore off pretty quick.
Lots of choices.
Worst case, I can buy the 2 pieces from Lowes here and mail them to you.
The longer back piece I have prevents them from getting stuck too deep.
Did the store you went to sell those?
Check the white PVC stuff too. They may have the threaded to smooth connector made of that, and being white doesn't matter because you won't see it installed.
Or try the rubbery cap Scott got. I don't think they're any longer, but may sit in there better.
Or try wrapping electrical tape around them to snug them up.
If you want to add something to pull them out, here's some choices:
- hardware store, black plastic ball ~1/2" w/ brass threaded insert; attach w/ screw
- #6 or #8 machine screw; drill hole in center of cap, thread it w/ tap, turn screw into it with head on outside of cap; use 2 nuts on end of screw and tighten the nuts together. During normal use, turn screw all the way in and snug onto cap. To remove cap, run screw out so nuts are against inside of cap and pull plug out. The nuts on the end of the screw prevent ripping threads out of cap. Cutting threads in plastic allows the screw to be turned in snug so it doesn't flop around. Easier to do than explain. I painted the screw heads black, but that wore off pretty quick.
Lots of choices.
Worst case, I can buy the 2 pieces from Lowes here and mail them to you.
Chuck,
Not sure what can be done there. Ford doesn't make a cap for the capless cars.
Maybe try wrapping a cloth rag around the area inside the door to keep dust out of there but still allow the rubber seal to do its job.
Or carefully wipe the area with a damp cloth when you wash the Boss.
Best option is paving that 1/2 mile of road. If you need a loan (or 2), I could help out, but as you know, loans need to be paid off in less than 24 hours.
Not sure what can be done there. Ford doesn't make a cap for the capless cars.
Maybe try wrapping a cloth rag around the area inside the door to keep dust out of there but still allow the rubber seal to do its job.
Or carefully wipe the area with a damp cloth when you wash the Boss.
Best option is paving that 1/2 mile of road. If you need a loan (or 2), I could help out, but as you know, loans need to be paid off in less than 24 hours.



