Brake Duct Kit Installation
Here's one of a Vette, but it's not a 'rolling' tunnel, so no vaccum effect from the rotating disc -- does show the ducts work, on it at least:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature...&v=AHsfoCmYNtM
I didn't see the same duct test on the 302S:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Gr40f...yer_detailpage
http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature...&v=AHsfoCmYNtM
I didn't see the same duct test on the 302S:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Gr40f...yer_detailpage
Last edited by CO_VaporGT_09; Aug 18, 2011 at 08:05 AM.
Good videos 
The vette clip did show the effectiveness of the inlet ram air does distribute cooling air to the brake rotor area. As the wheel was static, I am sure the pumping effect the brake rotor supplies while in motion further enhances the cooling effectiveness. Same for the Boss as well.
Not sure of the intent of the 4 wheel chassis dyno/thermal testing..(?) Unless the car was cycled this way for hours to see thermal effects or part failures.
Thanks for posting the clips!

The vette clip did show the effectiveness of the inlet ram air does distribute cooling air to the brake rotor area. As the wheel was static, I am sure the pumping effect the brake rotor supplies while in motion further enhances the cooling effectiveness. Same for the Boss as well.
Not sure of the intent of the 4 wheel chassis dyno/thermal testing..(?) Unless the car was cycled this way for hours to see thermal effects or part failures.
Thanks for posting the clips!
Maybe it was in a really hot room as well?
I spoke with a Ford guy yesterday during Mustang Alley, and mentioned that those were on my list of upgrades in the future. He said it's a tough install (as some of you know) but they have installed them without modifying anything in the kit. They apparently looked into modifying the washer bottle, but certain requirements kept that from happening.
Overall, it is some work to install, but not too bad.
Reading this thread and others will set you up for success.
Moving the washer bottle over isn't hard at all after removing the wheel well liner, and makes the gap easy to get the hose thru. The front bottle bolt is accessible thru the front facia opening.
If you can replace brake rotors and pads, you can install the kit, so don't hole back.
Reading this thread and others will set you up for success.
Moving the washer bottle over isn't hard at all after removing the wheel well liner, and makes the gap easy to get the hose thru. The front bottle bolt is accessible thru the front facia opening.
If you can replace brake rotors and pads, you can install the kit, so don't hole back.
It's a good idea to check those hoses now an then....
My ducts have two track days and 2000+ miles on them. There's wear on the driver side hose where the steering arm rubs on it. There's a lot of moving parts around the ducts, I think they're going to be a maintenance item with replacement required around 10k miles.
I'm waiting for the lower facia fog light inserts from Ford Performance to complete the install. Removing the washer bottle makes things much easier to install. I'll just shove the washer bottle back in and bend, crush the hose I'm sure but I think it will all fit ok.
Rubbing seems inevitable. Wonder where one can buy replacement hose?
Try wrapping Gorilla duct tape around the hose at the wear areas. But this hose does have some kind of wax/oil coating on it, so tape may not stick.
When I put the Steeda kit on my GT, I put tape on several areas to help with wear. But Steeda's has a black plastic hose so the tape stuck well to it.
When I put the Steeda kit on my GT, I put tape on several areas to help with wear. But Steeda's has a black plastic hose so the tape stuck well to it.
More installation pics from my car. Received the fog lamp inserts from Ford Perf. today.
Oh, and I didn't need to trim any plastic inner fender shrouds. Just put some duct tape on the corners to reduce abrasion on the tubing.
My approach moslty followed the pioneers that posted earlier.
Oh, and I didn't need to trim any plastic inner fender shrouds. Just put some duct tape on the corners to reduce abrasion on the tubing.
My approach moslty followed the pioneers that posted earlier.
Last edited by rmaginnis; Aug 26, 2011 at 04:44 PM.
Pic shows slotted duct holes for easier attachment.
Idea for slotting duct opening came from earlier poster. I was lazy and didn't weld the cuts back together - didn't seem necessary.
Idea for slotting duct opening came from earlier poster. I was lazy and didn't weld the cuts back together - didn't seem necessary.
Last edited by rmaginnis; Aug 26, 2011 at 04:48 PM.
Good luck!
Rick
Used a die grinder with a 3" cutoff wheel. 8 cuts at 45 degrees apart. Bend the 8 sections inward maybe 1/16". It doesnt' take much. Then used a 'burr' (rotary file) to clean up the rough edges. Painted with high temp brake drum paint from Eastwood (had some laying around). Only had to paint the collar. Good to go.
Good luck!
Rick
Good luck!
Rick
Waiting on the fog light bezels to arrive now from Ford Racing also, thanks for the tip on that one guys. Will have to wait untill after Track Attack to get to this. Should be easy to do with all the help posted here and other thread
Went over to my buddy's house to use his lift today and installed the brake ducts along with SS lines and Hawk HPS Pads. Still waiting on the Motul RBF600 fluid to arrive.
A couple notes from my installation:
1) I cut the inner tab off of the fascia to make it easier to direct the hose around fluid bottle.
2) I removed the horn, cut the tab off of its mount, and bolted the horn back into the hole where its tab went originally (about 3/4 to and inch above the original mount point). This left plenty of room for the duct hose.
3) Removed a plastic piece from the inside of the driver side to uncover the sway bar.
4) I cut two slots in where the hose attaches to the dust sheild and used a mallet to make it a little smaller so i could fit the hose around. Deburred it and it went on a little easier. Still a pain to get on.
5) I put rubber lines around the tie rods for the hose the rest against rather than rubbing on them.
Unfortunately my phone died about 10 minutes after I got to his house so i don't have any pictures of the install
Im pretty ticked about that.
As a side note, the SS lines and new pads are amazing. Made a HUGE difference.
A couple notes from my installation:
1) I cut the inner tab off of the fascia to make it easier to direct the hose around fluid bottle.
2) I removed the horn, cut the tab off of its mount, and bolted the horn back into the hole where its tab went originally (about 3/4 to and inch above the original mount point). This left plenty of room for the duct hose.
3) Removed a plastic piece from the inside of the driver side to uncover the sway bar.
4) I cut two slots in where the hose attaches to the dust sheild and used a mallet to make it a little smaller so i could fit the hose around. Deburred it and it went on a little easier. Still a pain to get on.
5) I put rubber lines around the tie rods for the hose the rest against rather than rubbing on them.
Unfortunately my phone died about 10 minutes after I got to his house so i don't have any pictures of the install
Im pretty ticked about that.As a side note, the SS lines and new pads are amazing. Made a HUGE difference.
Last edited by mtnbikefuel80; Aug 29, 2011 at 11:48 AM.



