Excellent.

 

Oil change next week and then it's ready to be put away at a moments notice once the first snow accumulation is on it's way!

 

Mine's at 3k and still dead on the full mark.

 

I have a 2014 with track pack with 4200 miles on it and it is down a quart of oil. The dealer said its normal for break in - really?

 

That's what I was told on my 2013. It took 13,000 miles to get to the point I didn't have to worry about it, but it did get better! Hang in there!!

 

My 2013 GT with 15,000 miles will drink about a quart every 3,000 miles. No it's not perfect I would much rather it was like my 2012 V6 Nissan Pathfinder that does not use a drop for a 7,000 mile change. My father had a Ford van with a 460 V8 that used over a quart every 3,000 miles from day one and more when he was towing his 9,000lb camper but he drove that for 200,000 miles like that so I don't really give it much thought esp when my GT goes like stink!

 

It is normal. At 13k miles mine doesn't burn much anymore.

 

My 2014 GT hardly uses any oil. I'm 5,900 miles into this oil change and the oil level is just a little down from the full mark. I use 5W-20 Motorcraft.

Wayne

 

I remember reading some testimony to the effect that changing to full-synthetic oil very early (at five hundred miles or so) resulted in increased oil consumption. I did that on both my 2008 and 2009 GT/CSs, but did not experience the phenomenon.

Oil consumption that improves over time might be due to improperly seated piston rings finally becoming well-matched to the cylinder bores. My technique for proper ring-seating in a new or rebuilt engine is to follow the Owner's Manual recommendation: vary your engine speed, do not run for extended periods at the same speed. What I have done, ever since learning of it in the early 1960s, is to run easily up to a speed five miles-per-hour faster than I expect to cruise, then back off and let the car coast down to the cruise speed, then drive for a minute or two at that speed, let the car coast down to five below cruise, then ease up to five-over again, repeat for the duration of my trip. Increase the cruise speed every hundred miles or so, until I am at the limit of what I'm willing to do on the freeway. Increase the amount of over-speed as much as I dare, or do my cruising one gear lower than normal.

The point of going over-speed and coasting down is to create conditions in the cylinder that are conducive of ring-seating: relatively low pressures and wiped cylinder walls. I'm going to bet those of us who spend more time going up and down the gears, using engine compression to slow down, are the ones with better-seated piston rings and lower oil consumption.

 

Great thread! Now I have some info on mine.

Background: I had the "engine tick" on my '14 GT. They rebuilt it at 7200 miles. New block, new crank, new rod and piston on #1. All new rings, all new bearings. Old heads, old rods and piston on 2-8.

Today I'm at 10,000 miles. My oil consumption has been 1 Qt / 1,000 miles since the warranty work. For simplicity, I have let the dealer do the oil changed - kinda makes sense with all the warranty stuff. I was thinking about switching to a full synthetic (Royal Purple, Redline, Amsoil) to reduce consumption. It might be easier to switch to a GM product (ouch!).

Based on everything in this thread, my oil consumption is significantly higher than anyone else's. Guess I will be seeing the dealer again.

 

I think it's just the price you pay for a 302 cubic inch engine putting out 420+ HP Naturally Aspirated. The break-in times seem to be longer than normal and it all depends on how you drive it. I still think there is something going on with the rings and I don't expect the issue to be fixed with the 2015's. But only time will tell.

 

Still have no oil consumption issues with my track driving - I think breaking the engine in with immediate WOT at low RPM's and engine braking helped. Then getting right out to the track

 

This was on older engines where the finishing process on the cylinders was not as good as modern engines that have to pass emissions tests right out of the factory, and those old engines took extra time to smooth out and seal completely.