Installed new front speakers
#241
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I installed a pair of JL Audio's C2-570X speakers in the front. What a great difference in sound quality.
I actually find myself wanting to turn up the stereo now.
I actually find myself wanting to turn up the stereo now.
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#243
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Installed Pioneer's front and back this weekend. Definitely an improvement over the mud I had, but not 100% thrilled. Too bright for my tastes. Think I am going to switch the fronts to the Polks. Also ordered the Kicker door subs and trunk sub.
#244
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Hey everybody!
I need a little help and advise...
My TS-D6802R Pioneers arrived in Japan (funny that they dont have an equivalent model here!) and I tried to put them in tonight. I ran out of daylight and I knew I couldn't do the right side, so I ended up putting in the stock speaker back in for the night.
I wonder though, the pioneers didn't sit very flat in the speaker surround. It seemed that they were possibly hitting something behind them, but when I checked, it seems pretty deep. Is there a certain orientation that they should face? Is there a difference between the left and right side speakers? Do they sit flat when totally tightened up?
It got dark and I couldn't really check it out properly...
Also, which screws did you guys use? The originals or the ones that came with the speakers?
I might try again tomorrow morning, but I'm kinda thinking about getting a pro to put them in and possibly do some deadening too...
Any advise?
Thanks!
I need a little help and advise...
My TS-D6802R Pioneers arrived in Japan (funny that they dont have an equivalent model here!) and I tried to put them in tonight. I ran out of daylight and I knew I couldn't do the right side, so I ended up putting in the stock speaker back in for the night.
I wonder though, the pioneers didn't sit very flat in the speaker surround. It seemed that they were possibly hitting something behind them, but when I checked, it seems pretty deep. Is there a certain orientation that they should face? Is there a difference between the left and right side speakers? Do they sit flat when totally tightened up?
It got dark and I couldn't really check it out properly...
Also, which screws did you guys use? The originals or the ones that came with the speakers?
I might try again tomorrow morning, but I'm kinda thinking about getting a pro to put them in and possibly do some deadening too...
Any advise?
Thanks!
#245
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Actually both the Shaker 500, 1000 and Nav head units have crossovers on the interior channels. I have noticed that there is a significant "roll off" of the low frequencies as you turn the volume up. Alot of guys are using summing devices like the JL Audio Cleansweep to get a solid low end frequency for subwoofers. But the interior speakers definitely have less low end bass as you turn the volume up. I notice it with my sub. The decrease is quite dramatic. More information can be found here.
https://themustangsource.com/f803/el...utputs-490750/
https://themustangsource.com/f803/el...utputs-490750/
#246
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I plan on changing out my speakers to the Pioneer, and the subs are going to get replaces with the kicker subs designed by shelby to fit our cars. The question I have is how much and which brand sound dampener should I buy for the doors while I have them taken apart?
#247
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I purchased four sheets of dynamat off of amazon for less than $50 bucks the same is listed on crutchfield for just over $100.
#248
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#249
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#250
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Originally Posted by Bigblue11
Yes i used all but 1 1/2 sheets out of four. Now i'm just trying to find all of the other minor rattles that have migrated to some of the plastic on the door. The battle never ends!
#251
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Sorry... I need to ask again.
Which screws did you guys use (originals or ones that come with the speakers) and will the plastic surround sit flush with the speaker when screwed down all the way?
Thanks!
Which screws did you guys use (originals or ones that come with the speakers) and will the plastic surround sit flush with the speaker when screwed down all the way?
Thanks!
#253
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Changed my front Pioneers to the Polk, and swapped out the door subs for the Kickers. Much happier with the sound now. Installing the Kicker trunk sub and amp tomorrow.
#254
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I've heard a lot of mixed reviews on the Kicker door subs. Did you get the ones that were designed for the Shaker system or another set? And was it worth the money?
#255
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I got the ones designed for the shaker system. They are a decent upgrade for the money and fit without issues. Installed the Kicker trunk sub and amp today. Its a little pricey for what you get. I am sure one could do better with other brands. I liked the fact that it was plug and play, and the enclosure fits nicely in the trunk. I am very satisfied with the completed product, and will not miss the mud that the factory set up sounded like to me.
#256
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I got the ones designed for the shaker system. They are a decent upgrade for the money and fit without issues. Installed the Kicker trunk sub and amp today. Its a little pricey for what you get. I am sure one could do better with other brands. I liked the fact that it was plug and play, and the enclosure fits nicely in the trunk. I am very satisfied with the completed product, and will not miss the mud that the factory set up sounded like to me.
#257
Tonight I just swapped out the front driver's side 6x8 with a Polk Audio MM571. Planning to do the passenger's side tomorrow. Not sure if I'll replace the factory rears. I also have an MTX Thunderform in the trunk.
I can tell a huge difference from the drivers side (Polk) to the passengers side (stock). Looking forward to getting it finished tomorrow.
I plan to stick with the Shaker 500 HU and, if the Shelby door subs can be driven well with it, I'll probably swap them out as well...
#258
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Originally Posted by Freedom Racing
And that's with the stock HU, correct?
Tonight I just swapped out the front driver's side 6x8 with a Polk Audio MM571. Planning to do the passenger's side tomorrow. Not sure if I'll replace the factory rears. I also have an MTX Thunderform in the trunk.
I can tell a huge difference from the drivers side (Polk) to the passengers side (stock). Looking forward to getting it finished tomorrow.
I plan to stick with the Shaker 500 HU and, if the Shelby door subs can be driven well with it, I'll probably swap them out as well...
Tonight I just swapped out the front driver's side 6x8 with a Polk Audio MM571. Planning to do the passenger's side tomorrow. Not sure if I'll replace the factory rears. I also have an MTX Thunderform in the trunk.
I can tell a huge difference from the drivers side (Polk) to the passengers side (stock). Looking forward to getting it finished tomorrow.
I plan to stick with the Shaker 500 HU and, if the Shelby door subs can be driven well with it, I'll probably swap them out as well...
#259
The MTX definitely adds an element to my Shaker 500 system. It is pretty impressive for how "convenient" it is. You can certainly do better for the same money if you want to mess with installing an amp, box, sub etc. though.
Still want to know if the door subs are worth upgrading if HU and amps are all stock...
#260
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And that's with the stock HU, correct?
Tonight I just swapped out the front driver's side 6x8 with a Polk Audio MM571. Planning to do the passenger's side tomorrow. Not sure if I'll replace the factory rears. I also have an MTX Thunderform in the trunk.
I can tell a huge difference from the drivers side (Polk) to the passengers side (stock). Looking forward to getting it finished tomorrow.
I plan to stick with the Shaker 500 HU and, if the Shelby door subs can be driven well with it, I'll probably swap them out as well...
Tonight I just swapped out the front driver's side 6x8 with a Polk Audio MM571. Planning to do the passenger's side tomorrow. Not sure if I'll replace the factory rears. I also have an MTX Thunderform in the trunk.
I can tell a huge difference from the drivers side (Polk) to the passengers side (stock). Looking forward to getting it finished tomorrow.
I plan to stick with the Shaker 500 HU and, if the Shelby door subs can be driven well with it, I'll probably swap them out as well...