topherblais13

thanks man i just finished reading everything form start to finish and it's not just thatdudeinblue but he is a mustang fan you should check other one on youtube dm me i know some i can show to you

topherblais13

and for what i want to do is just get it to run like a stock car no major upgrade except exhaust and intake do you recommand to start with a auto or manual trans in a 2011 up and will it fit in a 2015 and up ?

Ecostang

Got an update from the builder, the engine has 2 broken piston skirts. I'm waiting on the pics now.

Here's the build list for the engine from modular headshop
Custom Wiseco Pistons
Hard Anodizing and Lateral Gas Ports
9310 Alloy Wrist Pins

Manley Turbo Tuff Billet I-Beams

Boundary Billet pump gear

Port heads, 5 angle valve job, bronze guides
Headgames valve springs

The block is having the deck closed at CSS for added strength. The crankshaft is being shot peened then cryo treated for stength.

Full race 71/63 turbos and custom exhaust manifolds

Levels performance for a custom intercooler, hopefully air and water cooled, still working on that.

Excedy 6r80 transmission clutch and intermediate shaft upgrade from beefcake racing.

Circle D torque converter, not sure on the stall speed yet

Staying with 3.31 gears, with higher revs from the new engine those gears may be perfect.

I've got 90 days till the next race, block was shipped out to CSS today and he needs 3-4 weeks. Once it gets back all the parts will be ready to assemble in to the block. It will be close but I think we can make it.

Ecostang

If you keep it around 420whp no major upgrades necessary. Look at gatorv6 build in this same section of the forum, he's going the direction I would recommend for anyone else. It will save you some cash to go with the manual trans and that's the only thing that works with the ecoboost control pack from ford racing. You can use a automatic but you need to buy a stand alone controller and they are not cheap. Go with a V6 car, the v8 trans will not work.

Full-race is building a 2015 v6 ecoboost, I'm sure everything still fits fine. You may even have a little more room.

If it were me I would wait in gator to finish, learn from his mistakes like he learned from mine. Refine the process even more, do it more efficiently. There may be some issues with the cluster and the charging warning light that can be overcome, but we need to figure that out still. There will be several small problems to fix here and there, since mines a drag car those little things aren't important to me. Making it a street car and pass emmisions is a little trickier but doable.

topherblais13

thanks men
i need to check if in my province (québec) i can get a salvage title back to clean
because don't have money to start from brand new or used (not damage)

Ecostang

Honestly unless you plan to upgrade the parts that are wrecked it makes more sense to go with a car without damage. I ended up with $15k in my car after fixing it which is what a used one costs doing the work myself. I replaced everything with gt500 parts instead but the value of the car is much lower with a salvaged title. I don't think you really a win buying wrecked, unless you own a body shop or a wrecking yard.

walt460

I agree! From my experience with a lot of builds, mine and helping others, unless it is a pure race car, building a project car from a wreck with a salvage title is the wrong approach. It might seem a cheaper way to start, but just as stated above, you will spend just as much total and the salvage title will always mean less value.

TonyV

I joined the forum just to post my appreciation to the all the work you have being doing.
I just read the entire thread....3X!!!! Absolutely awesome!
Keep up the excellent work!

I'm currently completely redoing a 65 Mustang and I WAS going to install a 4.6L but you now have me convinced to use a 3.5TT.
I'll be soon on the hunted for a wrecked F150.

But for now, I'm going back and re-read the thread for the 4th time.

Ecostang

Hi Tony, welcome!

65 mustang would be a good candidate for an ecoboost if your going auto, if your going manual make sure you go with a 2.73 or maybe 3.08 rearend gear. The ecoboost won't spool the turbos until second gear if you don't, especially in a light car like a 65 mustang. Either way it will fly.

Ecostang

Wanted to give everyone an update, block is at CSS having the deck closed and modular head shop is working on the heads. They have found aftermarket valve springs for my heads, this will help us make up to 35 lbs of boost without floating the valves.

I also spoke with Nick at levels performance and it seems like he's going to be able to build me a custom intercooler. It will be water-cooled with an air precooler. Honestly this may be the first one ever built like this with everything in one front mounted unit. Pretty exciting

GLOCKer

This car is going to be ridiculous! (As if it wasn't already!)

boss man

I'm by no means a engine builder. I am a want a be...Lol
I read your post of the new motor handling 35psi of boost.
That sounds like....Holy Chit.
I have read other post and forums where they add 5 to 15psi of boost with huge HP gains on a street car. 35psi sounds like.... Holy Chit!
Will this be form one turbo or two?

Boy just when you think the end of your journey is over you suck us back in for the Ecoboost sequel
I'm in!!!
Any progress with Stang TV. Or are they having a hard time finding someone to play you....
I'll just sit back and wait for your post and pics of the engine build and say thank you in advance.

Jerry

Ecostang

Hi Bossman glad your still following!

The ecoboost with factory turbos is hitting 25 PSI when tuned, mine never got that high but my setup was fairly free flowing. Boost builds up from resistance, the less resistance lowers boost pressure while still moving the same or more cfm. The smaller the motor the more boost is necessary to achieve the same horsepower. 35 PSI on a v8 is insane, could be well over 1500 hp, my Sheby is around 15 PSI. 35 PSI on a v6 is a lot but not as crazy as it sounds, you should see the boost levels they put through those 4 cylinders!

My comment was the springs in the heads was capable of 35 PSI, I'm not sure how much boost we will be running. This is all new territory for me. I hope we get there because that's probably where we will hit 800 RWHP.

Twin turbos, Borg-Warner 71/63s is the current plan.

Ecostang

Oh and the Harrison from stangtv hasn't rescheduled with me and I haven't been bugging him about it. Things are still getting more dialed in everyday so I figure the longer he waits the more accurate the info is.

I'll probably start bugging him next week to get it done.

walt460

So, Ford stated 2017 F150 3.5L Ecoboost was to be 370HP, up 5, and 460 ft-lbs, up 40. But recently they said torque would be 470 ft-lbs. Yesterday I heard that the 2017 Lincoln will have a 400HP 400 ft-lbs V6 turbo, which is a 3.0L version of the 2.7L Ecoboost. I like where this is going and can't wait for 2017 Raptor ratings!

Ecostang

Wow that's cool!

All they need is a different tune lol

Ecostang

I'm going to work on the car some this weekend, I've been taking a much needed break while the engine is being built.

I realized with the new engine there no way this car will pass smog and be street legal, plus I doubt I'll be wanting to take it on the street. Its not going to be comfortable to drive, I'll just take the Shelby. Because of this I'm going to strip the car of everything I don't need to reduce weight, leaving the interior as is. Here's my list of my weight reduction plans

1. Remove ac compressor, refrigerant lines, and condenser
2. Remove blower motor, heater core, and heater core lines
3. Remove afco heat exchanger with fans
4. Replace 2 water-cooled intercoolers with a single front mount unit
5. Replace radiator with lighter all aluminum 3 row
6. Replace OEM fan with dual 10" slimline fans
7. Replace OEM cast manifolds with Full-Race header style manifolds.
8. Remove windshield wipers, linkage, and motor (Lexiion will be happy)
9. UPR lightweight radiator support
10. UPR K member
11. Cut my front bumper impact bar only leaving absorber mounts
12. Trim front bumper absorber to leave just the parts needed to hold bumper
13. Remove washer bottle
14. Replace all my copper pipe for the intercooler running front to back with insulated pex tubing.
15. Remove cats

This should shed more than 150 lbs from the car, fairly significant.

LEXiiON

LOL !!

LEXiiON

Ecostang

Well maybe I spoke too soon, Mike @ MPT just sent me an email saying he really wants to make it street legal lol. He says he thinks it's imortant to the industry with all the problems coming with the EPA.

Before we spend any time wiring up the wipers I'll get it smog checked first, if it won't pass I won't bother.

Slowb00st

With cats it should pass no problem just remove them for the track.