That's a hot looking car bro!

 

Last Friday, I removed my Steeda Ultralites springs, shocks and struts. I installed Bilstein dampers with Vogtland sport springs. My Steeda stuff was softening up after about 30k mi. The Bilsteins are definitely more firm and the Vogtland springs are supposed to be a little stiffer than the Ultralites I had, and the drop is about the same as what I had before. Overall, the handling is more responsive and not harsh at all. So far, I'm very happy with the change. I'll post up some pic's this weekend, after I clean her up.

 

I ordered my brackets a month or two ago. I am mainly doing it for the look because as it was said before the tiny rotor looks weird with the 20" wheels. The weight difference is holding me back a little bit especially since my wheels are definitely heavier than the stock Brembo's. I probably won't be able to feel a difference but it will be in my head!

 

I first put them on when I had my 20" Centerlines. Those wheels were quite a bit heavier than the Brembo wheels, so I didn't notice the additional weight from the rotors. That said, when I dropped down to staggered 19" Forgestar CF5s, the car felt like it dropped 100lb and gained 20-30hp back!

Then, when I eventually did the Wilwoods front and rear, I dropped probably another 4-5lb per corner (which I had already dropped about 8-10lb per corner when I did the air suspension), so that was pretty noticeable. The Wilwood calipers were significantly lighter than the Brembo front and stock rear, and the 2-piece rotors were probably 3lb lighter per.

I should weigh my car at the dumps. I'm curious to see how much weight I've dropped out of it. I'm back on my stock wheels right now, but have custom 3-piece forged 20s coming. For some reason I don't think they're going to be any lighter than my Brembo wheels though...

 

I'll jump in here too, since I put these on early in the 2015 season cause I was having heat issues at the track. I was burning up rear caliper seals and cracking rotors plus getting significant brake fade in the rear calipers. One of the attempted mitigation solutions was the larger rotors. I've since put on something like 2000 track miles, and only just this past Monday did I finally crack one. I've found they stay cooler (verified by IR thermometer readings) and also seem to have better pad wear, likely due to running cooler. To compensate for the rear brake bias, just switch pad compounds to a less aggressive rear.

I've had great luck with Raybestos ST47 fronts and ST43 rears. Seem well balanced and they last forever.

Cosmetically, the larger rotors look much better too, but I did this purely for the improvements at the track. Like basically everything I do on my car...

I've had zero issues with the adapter brackets as well through all the track time. I've also put on about 7000 street miles on them, again with no issues.

 

I knew the 20" Niche Milans would be heavier so I weighed everything for reference.

Brembo with stock Pirelli (about 1/3 of tread left) 55.8lbs:


20x8.5 Niche Milan & Nitto nt555g2 255/35/20 58.8lbs:


20x10 Niche Milan Nitto nt555g2 275/35/20 62.6lbs:


Almost a 7lb difference for the rears!

 

So if I am understanding everyone correctly all I would need to swap to the GT500 brakes in the rear are the 13.8" rotors, and this bracket? I was really dreading having to pull the axles on this one so if that is the case then we are golden!!

 

Yes.
I've done the job twice and took lots of pics.
PM me if I can help

 

I chose poorly earlier this spring and just got Cryo rotors for the front, and stock rotors for the rear from Centric for a good price.

Then again, I don't typically have any brake issues at the track. That said I have been getting faster, and hammering on my brakes harder but for a shorter time period. So I may be at the cusp of the thermal capacity of my setup right now.

I will definitely be doing this mod next time I switch rear rotors.

Gabe, Burt, Derek
did you use locktite on the bolts that hold the caliper to the bracket, or the bracket to the axle?

 

I don't think I did.
I usually look at the stock bolts and if they have Loctite on them, I'll put some on when the replacement bolts go in.
I don't think it's a bad idea to use some, regardless of whether the factory used any

 

This is what I did too...looked at factory bolts, didn't have any, torqued to spec.

 

Funny, the chunky 5-spoke Milans weigh more. My first set of aftermarket wheels were Niche Lucernes, 19x9.5 all around, in black chrome. I didn't realize at the time, but they were 29lb each, 4 pounds lighter than stock each. Math is fun!

 

Thanks Gabe and Pat for the feedback. I will definitely do this mod next time I need new rotors.

 

I actually haven't done the mod yet. Still on stock rotors

 

Locktite on the bolts between bracket and axle. Once those are in you likely won't remove agsin since just the caliper to bracket bolts are removed to take the caliper off

 

That's what I was thinking too. Thanks Derek!

 

Happy to help!

 

I fixed the problem with the SelectShift button. It was downshifting fine but had become difficult to upshift. I found a thread on another forum about the button contacts developing carbon residue. It had instructions and photos. So I removed the button and partially disassembled it and cleaned the contacts with an eraser. Put it all back together again and it shifts flawlessly now.

 

what's up tukatz! Been a while since I've seen you on.

Glad you fixed the issue!

 

I installed the CDC shaker system and 13-14 tail lights.