Some 2010 love!
#162
Shelby GT350 Member
#163
Cobra Member
#165
Shelby GT350 Member
I bet if GM never brought the Camaro back and neither Dodge with the Challenger, the Mustang would probably still have a 4.6L and making under 400hp.
#166
Cobra Member
#167
Cobra Member
#169
Legacy TMS Member
Join Date: January 25, 2010
Location: Massachusetts
Posts: 3,820
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#170
Mach 1 Member
#173
Legacy TMS Member
Join Date: January 25, 2010
Location: Massachusetts
Posts: 3,820
Received 1,545 Likes
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I love my 2010, but I keep lusting after a 2012. I found a 2012 with 3,400 miles on it (yes, three thousand four hundred miles) that looks practically brand new. It would cost me about $10K to trade up, net after trade in.
I have been getting into track days, and the limiting factor really is cornering speed, not acceleration / speed on the straights. My 2010 is lightly modded -- Brembo brakes, 19" GT500 wheels, GT500 sways, Steeda Sport springs. Even though I know I don't really "need" it, the idea of another 100 HP on tap is very alluring.
Could someone please convince me that I'm better off staying with the 2010?
thanks
I have been getting into track days, and the limiting factor really is cornering speed, not acceleration / speed on the straights. My 2010 is lightly modded -- Brembo brakes, 19" GT500 wheels, GT500 sways, Steeda Sport springs. Even though I know I don't really "need" it, the idea of another 100 HP on tap is very alluring.
Could someone please convince me that I'm better off staying with the 2010?
thanks
#174
Mach 1 Member
I love my 2010, but I keep lusting after a 2012. I found a 2012 with 3,400 miles on it (yes, three thousand four hundred miles) that looks practically brand new. It would cost me about $10K to trade up, net after trade in.
I have been getting into track days, and the limiting factor really is cornering speed, not acceleration / speed on the straights. My 2010 is lightly modded -- Brembo brakes, 19" GT500 wheels, GT500 sways, Steeda Sport springs. Even though I know I don't really "need" it, the idea of another 100 HP on tap is very alluring.
Could someone please convince me that I'm better off staying with the 2010?
thanks
I have been getting into track days, and the limiting factor really is cornering speed, not acceleration / speed on the straights. My 2010 is lightly modded -- Brembo brakes, 19" GT500 wheels, GT500 sways, Steeda Sport springs. Even though I know I don't really "need" it, the idea of another 100 HP on tap is very alluring.
Could someone please convince me that I'm better off staying with the 2010?
thanks
I actually stuck with my 2010GT... I modded the hell out of it and it was totally worth it. you can always get a power adder, that is way less than the $10K you would loose... Remember the differences between the 2010 and 2012 apart from the additional ponies are not that significant....
I personally think that the 2010 hydraulic power steering is a tad better than the EPAS (which I have now)...
But not everyone is sooooo crazy with his 2010GT than I am...
a little teaser for you
LEXiiON
#175
Shelby GT350 Member
#176
Mach 1 Member
LEXiiON
#177
I Have No Life
Bert..
I actually stuck with my 2010GT... I modded the hell out of it and it was totally worth it. you can always get a power adder, that is way less than the $10K you would loose... Remember the differences between the 2010 and 2012 apart from the additional ponies are not that significant....
I personally think that the 2010 hydraulic power steering is a tad better than the EPAS (which I have now)...
But not everyone is sooooo crazy with his 2010GT than I am...
a little teaser for you
LEXiiON
I actually stuck with my 2010GT... I modded the hell out of it and it was totally worth it. you can always get a power adder, that is way less than the $10K you would loose... Remember the differences between the 2010 and 2012 apart from the additional ponies are not that significant....
I personally think that the 2010 hydraulic power steering is a tad better than the EPAS (which I have now)...
But not everyone is sooooo crazy with his 2010GT than I am...
a little teaser for you
LEXiiON
#178
Mach 1 Member
Good ole blown 3V
LEXiiON
#179
Legacy TMS Member
Join Date: January 25, 2010
Location: Massachusetts
Posts: 3,820
Received 1,545 Likes
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1,059 Posts
OK, so we got:
- hydraulic steering has a little better feel
- 5-speed tremec is down one gear but doesn't have the issues of the MT82
- for $10K I could buy a blower and new wheels and tires and a bunch of track time
- it's paid for
is that it?
#180
Mach 1 Member
Yep, that was me. Kinda still wishin' I bought it from you . . . but probably not really the best for a road track car, they tend to have heat soak issues. There is a guy at my local track with a 2010 Roush Stage 3 that has overheating issues, while mine runs nice and cool. And before you ask: I don't know, we were in different run groups (how much faster is he?)
OK, so we got:
- hydraulic steering has a little better feel
- 5-speed tremec is down one gear but doesn't have the issues of the MT82
- for $10K I could buy a blower and new wheels and tires and a bunch of track time
- it's paid for
is that it?
OK, so we got:
- hydraulic steering has a little better feel
- 5-speed tremec is down one gear but doesn't have the issues of the MT82
- for $10K I could buy a blower and new wheels and tires and a bunch of track time
- it's paid for
is that it?
They utilize the stock manifold (composite) and don't use the aluminum lower intake that the PD blowers use. The aluminum intake gets very hot, thus increasing the air temperature. In order to get that back down, you need a large IC (or better - killerchiller etc) and upgraded pumps. The composite does get hot too, but it doesn't transmit the heat as good as aluminum. Of course, engine cooling upgrade is a must (larger radiator etc), but overall you should stay well below $10K.
Or, if you want to stay N/A the FRPP Intake, the 62mm FRPP TB and the FRPP stage 1 or 3 heads with hot-rod cams and some nice long tubes would give you close to 400hp at the flywheel N/A... so no heat problems. I think the whole kit runs like $3K-4K or so.
There is a nice comparison between all those components:
http://www.mustangandfords.com/how-t...ifold-testing/
LEXiiON
Last edited by LEXiiON; 1/27/16 at 08:43 PM.