I love mine too

 

dang...I take mine to redline about 45% of the time I accelerate lol

 

My car hits the rev limiter a lot due to misuse of select-shift. If you owned a 4.6 3V you would understand why I posted about how tough
it is.

 

hahaha nice

 

I bet if GM never brought the Camaro back and neither Dodge with the Challenger, the Mustang would probably still have a 4.6L and making under 400hp.

 

YUP.....

 

Wasn't there a factory 500 hp Mustang in 2007 ?

 

King of the road?

 

GT500 with 540 started in 2007, right?

 

2007-09 GT500 500hp
2008-09 GT500 KR 540hp
2010 GT500 540hp
2011-12 GT500 550hp
2013-14 GT500 662hp

LEXiiON

 

I meant just the GT Mustang though.
That jump of over 100hp in '13. Dang.

 

I miss my 2010. It was a really nice car with no problems.

 

I love my 2010, but I keep lusting after a 2012. I found a 2012 with 3,400 miles on it (yes, three thousand four hundred miles) that looks practically brand new. It would cost me about $10K to trade up, net after trade in.

I have been getting into track days, and the limiting factor really is cornering speed, not acceleration / speed on the straights. My 2010 is lightly modded -- Brembo brakes, 19" GT500 wheels, GT500 sways, Steeda Sport springs. Even though I know I don't really "need" it, the idea of another 100 HP on tap is very alluring.

Could someone please convince me that I'm better off staying with the 2010?

thanks

 

Bert..

I actually stuck with my 2010GT... I modded the hell out of it and it was totally worth it. you can always get a power adder, that is way less than the $10K you would loose... Remember the differences between the 2010 and 2012 apart from the additional ponies are not that significant....
I personally think that the 2010 hydraulic power steering is a tad better than the EPAS (which I have now)...
But not everyone is sooooo crazy with his 2010GT than I am...

a little teaser for you


LEXiiON

 

You don't like the variable electric assist? I don't have any problems with mine and I love how you can change between sport, touring, and comfort

 

Don't get me wrong. I like it, (normal, sport and comfort) but the steering feel with the hydraulic was a tad better.....

LEXiiON

 

To be fair though, you did a complete engine swap to get the power adder (which is a great car now, btw). But with Bert, I don't think he plans to swap engines. Adding a blower I agree is under 10k for sure...

 

True ... But I started with a Roush TVS... I think I even offered it to Bert back in the day before I sold it...

Good ole blown 3V

LEXiiON

 

Yep, that was me. Kinda still wishin' I bought it from you . . . but probably not really the best for a road track car, they tend to have heat soak issues. There is a guy at my local track with a 2010 Roush Stage 3 that has overheating issues, while mine runs nice and cool. And before you ask: I don't know, we were in different run groups (how much faster is he?)

OK, so we got:
- hydraulic steering has a little better feel
- 5-speed tremec is down one gear but doesn't have the issues of the MT82
- for $10K I could buy a blower and new wheels and tires and a bunch of track time
- it's paid for

is that it?

 

Well, so if you want to do road racing, i guess a turbo setup or a centrifugal might be a better choice in terms of power adder.
They utilize the stock manifold (composite) and don't use the aluminum lower intake that the PD blowers use. The aluminum intake gets very hot, thus increasing the air temperature. In order to get that back down, you need a large IC (or better - killerchiller etc) and upgraded pumps. The composite does get hot too, but it doesn't transmit the heat as good as aluminum. Of course, engine cooling upgrade is a must (larger radiator etc), but overall you should stay well below $10K.

Or, if you want to stay N/A the FRPP Intake, the 62mm FRPP TB and the FRPP stage 1 or 3 heads with hot-rod cams and some nice long tubes would give you close to 400hp at the flywheel N/A... so no heat problems. I think the whole kit runs like $3K-4K or so.
There is a nice comparison between all those components:
http://www.mustangandfords.com/how-t...ifold-testing/

LEXiiON