texastboneking

Now you got it!

2011 Kona Blue

See. Im learning. Ill get there. Lol

FordService

Hey FromZto5,

FMC OEM and Motorcraft are one in the same. Here is the OEM Motorcraft filter we recommend for your vehicle.

Deysha

Good info, texastboneking.

Aftermarket parts will not automatically void any of your warranties, RadioFr33Europe. However, if they cause a concern, that specific repair will not be covered. You can refer to your Warranty Guide on page 13 for further info.

Deysha

kylerohde

I hate getting into these stupid oil debates that happen so often here...but this one's slightly different with this Europe thing interjected. Based on what I read in this Wikipedia article (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Motor_oil), Europe has completely different oil standards than the US and 5W-20 doesn't even seem to be available in the UK at least, based on Castrol's site (http://castroledge.com/oil-range/). So, I would assume Ford recommends 5W-30 in Europe because it's the lightest weight option available? If 5W-20 was available, they'd probably recommend that because it would improve the fuel mileage, which is even more important there than here since gas is so much more expensive.

I truly have a hard time seeing why Ford would recommend a motor oil that shortens the life of an engine. In a time when cars are expected to perform without problems for 100K and engines last to 150K+, why would they do something so shortsighted if it gets you an extra 1 MPG but kills the long-term life of the engine? They're smarter than that, IMO.

2011 Kona Blue

I'm not saying 5 w 20 is evil. I'm just saying I think 5 w 30 is a better choice for better lubrication of the engine. I believe you are correct in Europe 5 w 20 you cannot get. However I would imagine if 5 w 20 was that much better in Europe they would get it and use it.

cdynaco

You are forgetting, the thicker oil you go, the more it retains heat.

An aluminum engine - with the oil spec'd by the engineers that built the engine - will heat and cool within range according to spec.

Just like the Boss with its higher rpm, has a different spec because of the higher performance and longer duration at high rpm on the track.

What's so hard about following directions anyway???

Thomas S

Wow you really called that one right!

Everett

Try bob is the oil guy forum. There are some very recent virgin oil analysis on Mobil 1. They are a business and have found a way to make their product cheaper,running on their name because the uninformed public believes the commercials. The only group 4 basestock(true synthetic) is the gold capped bottles. Everything else is a group 3(hydrocracked conventional). The term "synthetic" in America is a marketing term. And castrol syntec or edge is also a group 3.Not what's in the oil. The term synthetic is hazy now anyways. Once petroleum is hydrocracked and all the impurities removed a group 4 is barely better. It's the additive package that's important. An oil with high zinc and molybdenum disulfide will protect very well however zinc clogs up catalytic converters so the EPA is regulating how much oil companies can put in.
Bottles marked "energy conserving" are usually high in moly due to it's friction modification abilities however you can't find them thicker than a 0w-30/5w-30.
Red line,AMSOIL,royal purple and the gold capped mobil 1 bottles are all group 4 basestocks. MOST others are a blended group 3.
Honestly,pick one and stick with it so the additive packages can do their jobs.
I have found that the rotella blue bottle 5w-40 T-6 is fairly cheap and it's an HDEO. When I pulled my 4.6 apart this summer bearings and cams looked great. No scoring or wear,that was immediately visible,and it's very cost effective.
Ultimately this oil topic has been beaten to death. Once you hit a certain price point they are all really good.
Now get out and drive the car,don't sweat the small stuff

97GT12

My point is that "fact" relies 100% on "some guy on the internet said so".

If you've got something better than that, show me. Because I spent an appropriate amount of time researching where this idea came from and all that came up were endless debates between people who have no way of knowing guessing back and forth how much group IV base stock various mobil 1 grades have or don't have vs how much group III base stock.

The fact is nobody but mobil knows for both types of mobil 1:
http://www.mobiloil.com/USA-English/...Base_Oils.aspx
http://www.mobiloil.com/USA-English/..._Question.aspx

By the way, there is just as much rumor out there that it's EP that has the base III stock while plain M1 has the group IV.

From what I read on Bobistheoilguy it's a tired old subject with no conclusions either way. Their community has shown no difference in oil analysis between regular M1 and M1 EP.


Urban myth. There hasn't been any such lawsuit.

Mobil filed a complaint the National Advertising Division of the Better Business Bureau against Castrol for false advertising. Castrol convinced the BBB that group III could be so labeled. This is from the bob is the oil guy website where this lawsuit myth appears to be a repeated annoyance.

Post describing the base stocks here:
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums...Number=1104984

Group I is solvent extracted from crude oil. It's a mixed bag of hydrocarbons and in North America has fallen out of favor due to not being of very high quality compared to readily available base stocks that are improvements on it.

Group II is hydrocracked and dewaxed oil to produce more of the desired properties and it reduces unsaturated hydrocarbons, which reduces the tendency of the oil to oxidize and thicken out of grade. Most conventional oils in North America are made up of this.

Group II+ is an oil that would typically have very few unsaturated hydrocarbons and lower wax content. It may not be as fully processed as group III, but it is ahead of Group II for quality. Certain higher quality conventional oils use a higher proportion of this.

Group III is a heavily hydrocracked mineral oil. Most synthetic oils on the market are made up of this. The oil molecules are broken down through a variety of processes until they are much more like what has good lubricating properties, and removes or breaks down molecules with negative performance effects such as waxes. Pennzoil Platinum is the highest regarded group III oil on this site.

Group III+ is the extreme end of this, where the final product is basically nothing like any of the components that went into it, but it is still derived by heavily processing crude oil. An example of this would be Shell XHVI base oils. As well, oils are being developed on gas-to-liquids basestocks which would also produce extremely high quality group III bases, fundamentally synthesized but not falling into the definitions of group IV or V.

Group IV is PAO, which most consider along with group V to be a "true" synthetic. It is made up of base oils made from other hydrocarbons (often derived from natural gas) and is made specifically to be a lubricant, and does not have origin as crude oil. Mobil 1 and Amsoil are the best examples of these type of oils. They offer performance throughout extremes, resist oxidation, all kinds of fun stuff.

Group V is a blanket term for anything else, usually ester based oil. Red Line Oil is a common example of this.

On another note, this is probably the source of the Katrina rumor:
http://www.imakenews.com/lng/e_article001239508.cfm

All the products in the list at least of that date obviously had PAO (group IV) content.

2011 Kona Blue

Anyone know anything about Castrol Titanium full synthetic . Any good? Is it a true base IV synthetic oil?

Bucko

Check their site...

LEwis26

Personally, Castrol and Mobil go through so much trouble to hide what base stocks they use, that I'd rather not give them my business.

One of our TMS members who is local to me is an Amsoil dealer, and by becoming a preferrred customer, the cost for oil is only slightly higher.

I'm ordering 2 gallons of Amsoil 5w20, an Amsoil filter, and Amsoil trans fluid to get the dual clutch junk out of my car. Doing it all when my MGW shifter arrives next week.

kylerohde

I'd like to go to Amsoil, RP or Redline but the $10+ cost per quart just isn't worth it to me when I can get a five quart container of Castrol Edge w/ Syntec for $21.99. Too many good deals on the more mass synthetics at the parts stores, even if they're not quite as good, IMO.

LEwis26

If you spend the $20 a year to become a preferred customer, you can get it for $30 for a gallon container.

So it becomes $60 for 8 quarts, which isnt too bad in my opinion. Not to mention that most places have those 5 quarts for 40 bucks, not 20.

TheReaper

Amsoil is the only oil I put in my cars. Their filters are good too.

Rather B.Blown

My my my, these damned oil threads fall somewhere between mind numbingly tedious and hilarious. Everyone suddenly becomes a freaking petroleum engineer with a minor in chemistry (usually the degree was earned at the university of bobistheoilguy).

And for the love of God, Mobil is an oil, Mobile is a city on the coast of Alabama. You'd think a petroleum engineer would know the difference.

cdynaco

You got that right!!

FromZto5

100%. I used to use Mobil 1 religously.. then I switched to Amsoil, and my car just ran smoother.... so switched to Amsoil and never looked back since. Now my daily drivers still get the dinosaur oil... I don't care about those.

way2qk4u2c

Did Someone mention amsoil lol ?

montreal ponies

I can relate to you, i only have 1100 miles on mine since June 2010. I'm in the same boat. Mine is hibernating as well.