info on oil change DIYs and oil filter choices for 2011+ 5.0s
12/5/11, 11:51 AM
#1
I Have No Life
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info on oil change DIYs and oil filter choices for 2011+ 5.0s
As title states, can someone please direct me to a good thread on these topics? Was hoping to find stickies in this sub forum, but didn't find any. Perhaps I'm looking in the wrong place???? I know it's pretty basic, and I do all my own oil changes, so before you guys flame me, I was just looking for diy's that sometimes offer tidbits of info or hints on how to make the process quicker, easier, etc...
As for the oil filter, do u guys recommend fomoco oem or motorcraft? I keep seeing varying thoughts. Thank you
As for the oil filter, do u guys recommend fomoco oem or motorcraft? I keep seeing varying thoughts. Thank you
Last edited by FromZto5; 12/5/11 at 12:03 PM.
12/5/11, 01:06 PM
#2
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12/5/11, 03:12 PM
#3
I Have No Life
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12/5/11, 06:15 PM
#4
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12/5/11, 08:03 PM
#5
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Originally Posted by BlackMamba03
12/6/11, 06:46 AM
#6
Legacy TMS Member
I like K&N oil filters because of the quality and the 1" nut they put on the end of the filter, so removing it is much easier than other filters. They cost around $14 at the parts store, and even if that's a couple dollars more than another filter, the nut makes it worth it, IMO. O'Reilly and Advance both have oil change specials with K&N oil filters, like the $28.99 5 QT Castrol Syntec/K&N filter one I saw yesterday. Makes going synthetic a cheaper proposition!
12/6/11, 06:59 AM
#7
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Wix is one of the top filter brands out there. Just stay away from fram.
And as far as oils go mobile 1 is the best. Shortly followed by amsoil.
And as far as oils go mobile 1 is the best. Shortly followed by amsoil.
12/6/11, 07:45 AM
#8
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I used castrol syntec edge 5w20 and a Ford 500 filter and it works great.
12/6/11, 07:49 AM
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Originally Posted by LEwis26
Wrong. Mobil 1 is no longer a true full synthetic. That changed after Katrina, when the plant was destroyed and forced them to switch to a non full sythetic base stock.
I used castrol syntec edge 5w20 and a Ford 500 filter and it works great.
12/6/11, 08:23 AM
#10
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I've read some articles on it that I cant find right now.
Additionally, my father spent 35 years in the oil industry.
The government changed what qualifies as a "sythetic oil" and even oils with some group 3 base stock still qualify as synthetic.
Group 4 and 5 are the only fully 100% synthetic oils.
Additionally, my father spent 35 years in the oil industry.
The government changed what qualifies as a "sythetic oil" and even oils with some group 3 base stock still qualify as synthetic.
Group 4 and 5 are the only fully 100% synthetic oils.
12/6/11, 08:36 AM
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Originally Posted by LEwis26
I've read some articles on it that I cant find right now.
Additionally, my father spent 35 years in the oil industry.
The government changed what qualifies as a "sythetic oil" and even oils with some group 3 base stock still qualify as synthetic.
Group 4 and 5 are the only fully 100% synthetic oils.
Additionally, my father spent 35 years in the oil industry.
The government changed what qualifies as a "sythetic oil" and even oils with some group 3 base stock still qualify as synthetic.
Group 4 and 5 are the only fully 100% synthetic oils.
12/6/11, 09:25 AM
#13
Cobra Member
Castrol won a lawsuit to allow them to call group 3 basestocks synthetic, so mobil 1 started adding some group 3 to their group 4's to save some cash.
For my next change, I think I'll be going with AMSOIL 5w20 100% syn, or Redline 5w20 100% syn.
Last edited by LEwis26; 12/6/11 at 09:39 AM.
12/6/11, 01:47 PM
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I have 135K on an '05 F150 with the 4.2 V6. I always used Motorcraft 5x-20 semi-synthetic and a motorcraft oil filter. The Motorcraft filters have always rated high in filter tests from various labs and test institutions. The oil is good stuff too. I change it every 4K miles.
I'll be sticking with the same in my newly purchased Mustang.
I'll be sticking with the same in my newly purchased Mustang.
12/6/11, 02:41 PM
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I have nothing against amsoil but be aware, although it tests well in actual usage, it also thickens to about a 40w.
http://neptune.spacebears.com/cars/stories/amsoil.html
12/6/11, 02:41 PM
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I have 135K on an '05 F150 with the 4.2 V6. I always used Motorcraft 5x-20 semi-synthetic and a motorcraft oil filter. The Motorcraft filters have always rated high in filter tests from various labs and test institutions. The oil is good stuff too. I change it every 4K miles.
I'll be sticking with the same in my newly purchased Mustang.
I'll be sticking with the same in my newly purchased Mustang.
12/6/11, 03:40 PM
#17
Cobra Member
I have nothing against amsoil but be aware, although it tests well in actual usage, it also thickens to about a 40w.
http://neptune.spacebears.com/cars/stories/amsoil.html
http://neptune.spacebears.com/cars/stories/amsoil.html
Interesting. Will have to do some research on this one. May have to use redline instead if that's the case.
EDIT: Upon further research, the thickening issue was a problem in the early 2000's, (this is a 2003 article), and has been addressed years ago.
Last edited by LEwis26; 12/6/11 at 03:44 PM.
12/6/11, 09:28 PM
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12/6/11, 11:03 PM
#19
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Potentially dumb question here, but how are you guys changing the oil with the height of your car? I know it's ideal to have the car level. So in my case my car is so low I'd think I would have to put it up on the ramps and jack stands to do it myself. The dealership has done my first 2(free ones) but I plan on doing the rest.
12/7/11, 06:20 AM
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i have a fairly low oil pan for changes....i use a floor jack to jack up the driver side behind the wheel...get underneath and start draining and then with the floor jack i slowly lower it until its just about to hit the pan the oil is draining in and let it drain. its not so bad with a rear sump rear facing oil plug. with the old five liters that had the double sump with two plugs it was a biatch.