2010-2014 Mustang Information on The S197 {GenII}

info on oil change DIYs and oil filter choices for 2011+ 5.0s

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Old 12/7/11 | 11:29 PM
  #41  
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Originally Posted by 2011 Kona Blue
I believe Purolator makes one of the best filters. That's what I use and you can buy them for $7.99. I have even seen them on sale for $5.00 if you catch the sale. Napa Gold filters are also awesome. There really wix filters who makes the Napa Gold but for less. I use either Mobil 1 or Pennzoil Platinum synthetic 5w 30 with Purolator One filter and your
set for 7,500 miles. The biggest waste of money is Royal Purple or Amsoil if one is going to change out at 5,000 miles. Don't bother with true full synthetic unless your going for an extended interval and im not talking 5k. Im talking 10k plus miles. Any less, waist of time and money

Get car ramps , best and fastest way to change oil
I'm a Mobil 1 guy myself and while their Extended Performance formula is 100% synthetic and rated for 15,000 miles, I personally wouldn't run it past 12,500 at the very most.
Old 12/7/11 | 11:44 PM
  #42  
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Originally Posted by BlackMamba03
I'm a Mobil 1 guy myself and while their Extended Performance formula is 100% synthetic and rated for 15,000 miles, I personally wouldn't run it past 12,500 at the very most.
Im with you on this one, I can't bring myself to roll 15k miles even on a true full base 4 or 5 synthetic oil. For me I roll 7,500 miles on Mobil 1 or another partially synthetic base 3 oil like Pennzoil Platinum synthetic. I still can't believe people are changing there oil with modern day 21st Century automobiles. On top some are using full base 4 synthetic oils like Royal Purple for example and changing every 3k. Wow! People must think its 1987 again. Is Reagan President again?
Old 12/8/11 | 07:46 AM
  #43  
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Originally Posted by FromZto5
My thread went from inquiring about oil to lessons in jackstand safety....... Sigh......
Thats always the case on these types of forums...wait until the chest thumping happens.
Old 12/8/11 | 10:23 AM
  #44  
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Originally Posted by kylerohde
Yeah, it happens

Here's what I have for you:
  • Change your oil, at minimum, when the oil life monitor in your car tells you to. Personally, I change every 5,000 miles or 3 months, whichever comes first. Probably overkill but doing 4 oil changes per year is cheap preventive maintenance, IMO.
  • Buy 5W-20 semi-synthetic or full synthetic motor oil for your Stang. I like Castrol Edge with Syntec, but Mobil 1, Redline, Royal Purple, Amsoil and others are all good choices. Oil capacity is 8 quarts.
    • There's LOTS of discussion about particular brands of oil plus the weight of it - lots of guys think 5W-30 is the way to go. I won't get into that!
  • Buy a good filter - Purolator PureOne, Motorcraft (same as OEM), Wix, Mobil 1 and K&N are all good choices. I like K&N because they have a 1" nut on the end to make it easier to loosen.
  • Get a set of Race Ramps (http://www.raceramps.com/) or use a set of jackstands.
  • The plastic cover over the bottom of the engine is really easy to loosen and just swings down out of the way - no biggie.
  • Use a ziploc bag or something similar over the oil filter as you take it off so you can catch all the oil that spills out. Big mess underneath without it.
  • Give the big oil pan plenty of time to drain.
  • Refill as normal - my car took about 7.5 quarts to get to the mid range of the dipstick but I also filled up the oil filter as much as possible.
Hope that helps in some way!
Originally Posted by 2011 Kona Blue
I believe Purolator makes one of the best filters. That's what I use and you can buy them for $7.99. I have even seen them on sale for $5.00 if you catch the sale. Napa Gold filters are also awesome. There really wix filters who makes the Napa Gold but for less. I use either Mobil 1 or Pennzoil Platinum synthetic 5w 30 with Purolator One filter and your
set for 7,500 miles. The biggest waste of money is Royal Purple or Amsoil if one is going to change out at 5,000 miles. Don't bother with true full synthetic unless your going for an extended interval and im not talking 5k. Im talking 10k plus miles. Any less, waist of time and money

Get car ramps , best and fastest way to change oil

Thank you for the input guys... these are the posts I'm looking for. And no worries, I know all about oil changes, intervals, etc... been doing it for over 15 years. I was just looking for anything and everything that could further help. I know every car is slightly different. Actually, the first time I heard about the baggie trick is here. Usually, I just make sure the pan is underneath, and unscrew, then hold, and let drain... yeah my hand gets dirty, but oh well. I will have to try that baggie

As for intervals.... I only put about 1000-2000 miles a year on my toy cars. So Marilyn will have the same amount of mileage. However, I STILL change oil twice a year... regardless of miles. Spring (out of winter hibernation), and fall (pre-hibernation). I used to use Mobil 1... then switched to Amsoil in my prior cars, and I swear (at least it seemed like to me) it ran smoother. So from here on out, I use nothing but Amsoil. Is it a waste of money? prolly... but do I care? No. Regular oil changes and using pricey stuff is peanuts compared to other things...

And yes, I do have stands and ramps... I alternate with either. Ramps are nice, but driving up on them always freaks me out... esp when they start slightly moving as you get up on them. Stands work out best for me... SAFETY FIRST!!! LOL...
Old 12/8/11 | 11:15 AM
  #45  
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Originally Posted by FromZto5

Thank you for the input guys... these are the posts I'm looking for. And no worries, I know all about oil changes, intervals, etc... been doing it for over 15 years. I was just looking for anything and everything that could further help. I know every car is slightly different. Actually, the first time I heard about the baggie trick is here. Usually, I just make sure the pan is underneath, and unscrew, then hold, and let drain... yeah my hand gets dirty, but oh well. I will have to try that baggie

As for intervals.... I only put about 1000-2000 miles a year on my toy cars. So Marilyn will have the same amount of mileage. However, I STILL change oil twice a year... regardless of miles. Spring (out of winter hibernation), and fall (pre-hibernation). I used to use Mobil 1... then switched to Amsoil in my prior cars, and I swear (at least it seemed like to me) it ran smoother. So from here on out, I use nothing but Amsoil. Is it a waste of money? prolly... but do I care? No. Regular oil changes and using pricey stuff is peanuts compared to other things...

And yes, I do have stands and ramps... I alternate with either. Ramps are nice, but driving up on them always freaks me out... esp when they start slightly moving as you get up on them. Stands work out best for me... SAFETY FIRST!!! LOL...
Amen brother. Do what makes you happy. None of us a paying your bills. Lol
Old 12/8/11 | 11:50 AM
  #46  
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Originally Posted by FromZto5

Thank you for the input guys... these are the posts I'm looking for. And no worries, I know all about oil changes, intervals, etc... been doing it for over 15 years. I was just looking for anything and everything that could further help. I know every car is slightly different. Actually, the first time I heard about the baggie trick is here. Usually, I just make sure the pan is underneath, and unscrew, then hold, and let drain... yeah my hand gets dirty, but oh well. I will have to try that baggie

As for intervals.... I only put about 1000-2000 miles a year on my toy cars. So Marilyn will have the same amount of mileage. However, I STILL change oil twice a year... regardless of miles. Spring (out of winter hibernation), and fall (pre-hibernation). I used to use Mobil 1... then switched to Amsoil in my prior cars, and I swear (at least it seemed like to me) it ran smoother. So from here on out, I use nothing but Amsoil. Is it a waste of money? prolly... but do I care? No. Regular oil changes and using pricey stuff is peanuts compared to other things...

And yes, I do have stands and ramps... I alternate with either. Ramps are nice, but driving up on them always freaks me out... esp when they start slightly moving as you get up on them. Stands work out best for me... SAFETY FIRST!!! LOL...
If you don't mind me asking did you buy your mustang for investment purposes only? If not an investment than respectfully why do you drive your mustang only 1 to 2000 miles a year? Or better question, why would anybody want to drive an awesome car like the mustang only 1 to 2000 miles a year? Other than for investment purposes or place their car in shows to win money and super cool trophy

Last edited by 2011 Kona Blue; 12/8/11 at 12:33 PM.
Old 12/8/11 | 01:13 PM
  #47  
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Originally Posted by 2011 Kona Blue
If you don't mind me asking did you buy your mustang for investment purposes only? If not an investment than respectfully why do you drive your mustang only 1 to 2000 miles a year? Or better question, why would anybody want to drive an awesome car like the mustang only 1 to 2000 miles a year? Other than for investment purposes or place their car in shows to win money and super cool trophy
Investment purposes??? No car is an investment... ever. Unless you buy an exotic (ala Ferrari, etc) or a collectible classic. No, I didn't buy the car as an investment. My "toy" cars are just that... my "sunny day" only car, my stress relief after a long days/weeks worth of work - car, my kids are screaming in the house I gotta get out of the house - car. It's my garage queen. All my prior cars were like that... I had a twin turbo 93 RX7 that never saw rain since new... I had a G and a Z too... and now my first forray into american muscle. I LOVE it. Heck, just looking at my cars in the garage already gets me all warm and tingly I'm just a car nut... I love looking at them, driving them, working on them, and especially DETAILING them (I'm OCD, and used to own my own detailing business). So keeping cars neat and clean and polished is a must for me... to each his own.

But yes, the Stang is a GREAT car...I LOVE IT. I only get 12mpg lately, but I don't care haha. It's about to hibernate already though... got first light snow this week.

Last edited by FromZto5; 12/8/11 at 01:20 PM.
Old 12/8/11 | 01:32 PM
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Originally Posted by FromZto5
Actually, the first time I heard about the baggie trick is here.
Same here - read it on Taco Bill's "how to" and it worked great! Been changing oil for decades, but learn something new everyday.

PS: I do the 2 jack method. Mustang jack, bottle screw jack, jack stand for safety. In and out from the front. 2500 miles this summer, back in winter storage with fresh oil. I never let my car set all winter with blow by gasses and contaminents in the crankcase.

At a gathering at the fire hall last month, some guy wise cracked I must not have lived here long to get a Mustang in snow country. I said "been here thutty years... but I wanted a summer hot rod for these two lane mountain twisties. So I bought one".

Last edited by cdynaco; 12/8/11 at 01:37 PM.
Old 12/8/11 | 02:31 PM
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[QUOTE="FromZto5"]

Investment purposes??? No car is an investment... ever. Unless you buy an exotic (ala Ferrari, etc) or a collectible classic. No, I didn't buy the car as an investment. My "toy" cars are just that... my "sunny day" only car, my stress relief after a long days/weeks worth of work - car, my kids are screaming in the house I gotta get out of the house - car. It's my garage queen. All my prior cars were like that... I had a twin turbo 93 RX7 that never saw rain since new... I had a G and a Z too... and now my first forray into american muscle. I LOVE it. Heck, just looking at my cars in the garage already gets me all warm and tingly I'm just a car nut... I love looking at them, driving them, working on them,/QUOTE]

That's great to drive a car on "sunny days". I only drive my stang on days that are not raining, dry roads and never any snow. With all that Im able to squeeze out a good 6 to 7 k year. Im sorry to hear you only have about 2000 miles a year worth of "sunny days" where you live in the United States. Lol. Even living here on the east coast in the Baltimore metro area we have better weather than 2000 miles a year worth of driving.

I could not imagine just having my pony sitting in the garage on non bad weather days not riding her. My joy is starting her up and hearing those Flowmasters growl. Sitting behind the wheel and driving on open highway and back county open roads. Hearing the roar of my engine and exhaust while im bringing the mail and juicing the pedal down. Feeling that acceleration and how the car responds is awesome. For me, I so can't get that feeling of excitement just having my pony in a garage and washing her every two days and not going out and riding. My only regret is not putting 10 to 15k miles year on the stang.

Last edited by 2011 Kona Blue; 12/8/11 at 02:33 PM.
Old 12/8/11 | 03:21 PM
  #50  
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Couple of questions:

Can Ford void your warranty for using a non-Motorcraft oil or non-recommended weight?

How about for changing it yourself?
Old 12/8/11 | 03:36 PM
  #51  
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Originally Posted by RadioFr33Europe
Couple of questions:

Can Ford void your warranty for using a non-Motorcraft oil or non-recommended weight?

How about for changing it yourself?
Negative Ghost Rider.
Old 12/8/11 | 03:39 PM
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Originally Posted by BlackMamba03
Negative Ghost Rider.
Aren't there warranty issues with a non Motorcraft filter because of the drain back thing? And I would think using an oil that was way out of weight range could cause warranty issues too.

I read to keep receipts for oil and filter to document oil change intervals during the warranty period if you are a do it yourselfer.

Last edited by cdynaco; 12/8/11 at 03:42 PM.
Old 12/8/11 | 03:47 PM
  #53  
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Originally Posted by cdynaco
Aren't there warranty issues with a non Motorcraft filter because of the drain back thing? And I would think using an oil that was way out of weight range could cause warranty issues too.

I read to keep receipts for oil and filter to document oil change intervals during the warranty period if you are a do it yourselfer.
I haven't heard of any issues from people using non-Motorcraft filters but it could be possible I guess.

As for oil, in the non-Boss 5.0 motor, I've only seen people use 5w20, 5w30 and 10w30. There was one guy on another forum that was using 0w30. Don't remember why but he went with it. I don't see how they could void warranty work with these oil weights.
Old 12/8/11 | 04:21 PM
  #54  
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Originally Posted by RadioFr33Europe
Couple of questions:

Can Ford void your warranty for using a non-Motorcraft oil or non-recommended weight?

How about for changing it yourself?
Yes

Originally Posted by BlackMamba03

Negative Ghost Rider.
Not quite true. If they deem that the oil or filter caused the damage they will void the warranty.

I.e. you put a 10w-50 oil in a 5w-20 engine and your cams freeze up in the heads due to lack of oil. they will void the warranty because your oil was too thick for the pump to get it to the cams.
Old 12/8/11 | 04:24 PM
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Originally Posted by texastboneking
Yes



Not quite true. If they deem that the oil or filter caused the damage they will void the warranty.

I.e. you put a 10w-50 oil in a 5w-20 engine and your cams freeze up in the heads due to lack of oil. they will void the warranty because your oil was too thick for the pump to get it to the cams.
But who on Earth would put 10w50 in a 5w20 motor? If it were that extreme then yes, I can see Ford voiding the warranty.
Old 12/8/11 | 04:29 PM
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From: Cleburne, Tx
Originally Posted by BlackMamba03

But who on Earth would put 10w50 in a 5w20 motor? If it were that extreme then yes, I can see Ford voiding the warranty.
I've seen them void a warranty of cam phasers because of a 10w30. You need to understand that all of the valvetrain parts rely on the thin properties of a 5w20 oil. This isn't an old pushrod engine. The oiling system on the ohc engines are huge and need the thin oil to fill the system.
Old 12/8/11 | 04:32 PM
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Originally Posted by texastboneking
I've seen them void a warranty of cam phasers because of a 10w30. You need to understand that all of the valvetrain parts rely on the thin properties of a 5w20 oil. This isn't an old pushrod engine. The oiling system on the ohc engines are huge and need the thin oil to fill the system.
What about 5w30? Also, what if you upgrade the oil pump?
Old 12/8/11 | 04:36 PM
  #58  
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Originally Posted by BlackMamba03
What about 5w30? Also, what if you upgrade the oil pump?
any other weight of oil other than the oil specified, ford can deny warranty. you are putting something in the car that ford doesn't approve of. as far as the oil pump more power too you. but ford will just use that as another reason to void the warranty because its not a ford part..
Old 12/8/11 | 04:39 PM
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Originally Posted by texastboneking
any other weight of oil other than the oil specified, ford can deny warranty. you are putting something in the car that ford doesn't approve of. as far as the oil pump more power too you. but ford will just use that as another reason to void the warranty because its not a ford part..
I'm not a fan of stealerships if you can tell. Everything you've said makes sense.
Old 12/8/11 | 04:42 PM
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Originally Posted by texastboneking
...You need to understand that all of the valvetrain parts rely on the thin properties of a 5w20 oil. This isn't an old pushrod engine. The oiling system on the ohc engines are huge and need the thin oil to fill the system.
Esp on cold startup.



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