Under a car with no jack stands?

 

^ My thoughts exactly... that's not safe.


But anyways, back to part of my original question. Are OEM filters (ones that come on the car from the factory) different from the Motorcraft ones??? Which is better to use? And is Motorcraft available in stores or only from dealer?

 

OEM and Motorcraft are the same thing. Motorcraft is available at O'Reilly and other parts stores and the price is usually very competitive. They're good filters.

 

I hope you're kidding - that's incredibly dangerous.

Best option is Race Ramps, which have a less steep incline for that very reason. I've still got an older set of Rhino Ramps and didn't want to buy a new set. My driveway is about 1-2" lower than my garage, so I pull the car in with the front tires in the garage and the rear in the driveway, which is just enough clearance to get my car up the ramps.

 

#1- I don't know where that info was gotten that Mobil 1 is not a synthetic oil????? Mobil 1 Extended Performance is a TRUE fully synthetic oil. An at $23 for 5qts, you can't go wrong.

#2- where did he say he didn't use jack stands? He probably just not stating the obvious, it's takes 2 seconds to slide or under. Or he's just reaching under from the side with an extension not exactly putting his body under..

 

Regular Mobil 1 is not, which is what most people refer to when they say Mobile 1.

It is part group 3 basestock, which is dino stock.

 

Read the quote:

Originally Posted by mystickeith50
i have a fairly low oil pan for changes....i use a floor jack to jack up the driver side behind the wheel...get underneath and start draining and then with the floor jack i slowly lower it until its just about to hit the pan the oil is draining in and let it drain. its not so bad with a rear sump rear facing oil plug. with the old five liters that had the double sump with two plugs it was a biatch.

 

Yes, I've been doing it for 15 years when changing my oil.
No not kidding. I'm under the car literally 60 seconds.

 

Yes mobil one ep is true synthetic...regular mobil one is not. And your number two is correct my arm and shoulder is literally the only thing under the car and maybe for sixty seconds. If anyone needs there whole body under the car when changing there oil, they should pay someone to do it.

 

When the car comes down and smashed you.. can I have it?

 

This is my first post here, I am researching buying a mustang but I felt so strongly about this that I registered just to post this warning:

I have had a jack fail. I have changed a lot of oil under a lot of cars. Unless you are stretch Armstrong you can't reach that plug without getting some part of your body under the car. If the jack fails you are dead unless you are Flat Stanley.

What about the lube job, you doing that as well with the jack only?

If it is a mechanical jack WITH A SAFETY THAT CANNOT BE KICKED OUT you may be okay but if not, you are biding time to be the big winner in the Darwin awards.

 

First post and you actually were informal and funny at the same time kudos.

 

I was inspired by your post and felt I should elaborate.

"When the car comes down and smashed you.. can I have it? "

 

My thread went from inquiring about oil to lessons in jackstand safety....... Sigh......

 

Yeah, it happens

Here's what I have for you:

• Change your oil, at minimum, when the oil life monitor in your car tells you to. Personally, I change every 5,000 miles or 3 months, whichever comes first. Probably overkill but doing 4 oil changes per year is cheap preventive maintenance, IMO.
• Buy 5W-20 semi-synthetic or full synthetic motor oil for your Stang. I like Castrol Edge with Syntec, but Mobil 1, Redline, Royal Purple, Amsoil and others are all good choices. Oil capacity is 8 quarts.
  • There's LOTS of discussion about particular brands of oil plus the weight of it - lots of guys think 5W-30 is the way to go. I won't get into that!
• Buy a good filter - Purolator PureOne, Motorcraft (same as OEM), Wix, Mobil 1 and K&N are all good choices. I like K&N because they have a 1" nut on the end to make it easier to loosen.
• Get a set of Race Ramps (http://www.raceramps.com/) or use a set of jackstands.
• The plastic cover over the bottom of the engine is really easy to loosen and just swings down out of the way - no biggie.
• Use a ziploc bag or something similar over the oil filter as you take it off so you can catch all the oil that spills out. Big mess underneath without it.
• Give the big oil pan plenty of time to drain.
• Refill as normal - my car took about 7.5 quarts to get to the mid range of the dipstick but I also filled up the oil filter as much as possible.

Hope that helps in some way!

 

I understand your frustration. but when someone is going to die from their methods we really need to step in. I hope you understand

I agree, I would like further clarification on the methods but someone is in risk of killing themselves doing this. Wouldn't you rather save a life?

The right way is on ramps, it is easy after that.

 

How to change the Oil: Drive up on ramps, remove the old oil
replace the oil, lube as required and be done.

 

In regards to motor oil, you should take a look at the link I posted on the first page.

I agree with your Race Ramps comment. Look into the Portable Pit Stop kit. Very pricey but I have heard great things.

 

Great tip!

 

I believe Purolator makes one of the best filters. That's what I use and you can buy them for $7.99. I have even seen them on sale for $5.00 if you catch the sale. Napa Gold filters are also awesome. There really wix filters who makes the Napa Gold but for less. I use either Mobil 1 or Pennzoil Platinum synthetic 5w 30 with Purolator One filter and your
set for 7,500 miles. The biggest waste of money is Royal Purple or Amsoil if one is going to change out at 5,000 miles. Don't bother with true full synthetic unless your going for an extended interval and im not talking 5k. Im talking 10k plus miles. Any less, waist of time and money

Get car ramps , best and fastest way to change oil