2010-2014 Ford Mustang S-197 Gen II Lets see your latest Pics PHOTO GALLERY
6/2/14, 10:49 AM
#9281
Super Boss Lawman Member
^ that is correct Darren. I think each clay pad is about 15 to 20 bucks, which is the normal price of 2 clay bars. So yes, small price to pay to keep my sanity with claying.
p.s. try using a sealant spray (like CG V7, etc) as lube. That was your sealing the same time you clay
win/win.
p.s. try using a sealant spray (like CG V7, etc) as lube. That was your sealing the same time you clay
win/win.
6/2/14, 12:41 PM
#9282
Mach 1 Member
Join Date: January 12, 2014
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Haha! CG should pay me some royalties for getting y'all hooked! 
Btw, you guys know what I mean when I state Clay PAD vs Clay BAR, right?
Clay BAR is the normal traditional clay (ala Play Dough) that you knead after every area you clay... it's tedious because of the limited amount of grip (you can only use fingers) to hold the clay in place. Also repeated swipes to remove one spot gets old.
Clay PAD is the revolutionary product that is some clay/rubber/alien??? material attached to one end of a foam pad. Benefit? No kneading. Better grip for more leverage. Less swiping. However, I did notice some loss of effectiveness after 1 or 2 car's worth of use. Meaning, more swipes are needed to remove the contaminant.
Pro's Con's for each.
Btw, you guys know what I mean when I state Clay PAD vs Clay BAR, right?
Clay BAR is the normal traditional clay (ala Play Dough) that you knead after every area you clay... it's tedious because of the limited amount of grip (you can only use fingers) to hold the clay in place. Also repeated swipes to remove one spot gets old.
Clay PAD is the revolutionary product that is some clay/rubber/alien??? material attached to one end of a foam pad. Benefit? No kneading. Better grip for more leverage. Less swiping. However, I did notice some loss of effectiveness after 1 or 2 car's worth of use. Meaning, more swipes are needed to remove the contaminant.
Pro's Con's for each.
Unrelated factoid: I once read an interesting article about how ALL automotive clay comes from the same place, it's all a monopoly anyway and is just branded differently. That said, I use the CG light clay with their Luber when needed.
6/2/14, 12:53 PM
#9283
I Have No Life
Claying is one of those things that should seldom actually need to be done - if the car has clean and correct/corrected paint and is then glazed/sealed/waxed, and kept washed/waxed, bonded contaminants really shouldn't be an issue. I think a lot of people clay because they think they need to, not because they actually do. To this day I have never needed to clay an entire vehicle, I've only ever needed to do partial/spot claying, and maybe once a year if that; then again I don't correct any more than absolutely necessary - two years now on my wife's '12 Beetle since new and no correction needed even still. Don't clay for the sake of claying, run your fingers across the paint and see if it actually needs it.
Curious, how does the clay pad work when it gets bonded contaminants in it if you don't need to knead it? How does the clay pad flush out the bonded contaminants making sure that the clay on the surface of the pad is always clean?
Unrelated factoid: I once read an interesting article about how ALL automotive clay comes from the same place, it's all a monopoly anyway and is just branded differently. That said, I use the CG light clay with their Luber when needed.
Curious, how does the clay pad work when it gets bonded contaminants in it if you don't need to knead it? How does the clay pad flush out the bonded contaminants making sure that the clay on the surface of the pad is always clean?
Unrelated factoid: I once read an interesting article about how ALL automotive clay comes from the same place, it's all a monopoly anyway and is just branded differently. That said, I use the CG light clay with their Luber when needed.
6/2/14, 03:57 PM
#9284
Roush Forum Stalker
You'd be surprised at the frequency of needed claying. You are correct, however, in the fact that spot claying is what's needed. You guys know how well I keep my cars. Heck Marilyn's never seen rain in her 3 years of life. Despite that, just from regular road driving, I get contaminants that are "stuck" on the paint and won't be removed by washing/etc. Some are still solid brake dust particles, but I think some are also from tire rubber remnants.
6/2/14, 05:17 PM
#9285
Shelby GT500 Member
New wheels. I put these (or some like them) in another thread, but the wait and the awesomeness need double the exposure. No pun intended.
A before-and-after comparison. I know some will like the black better, but for me it was time for a change and I like the brushed aluminum contrast against the black.
A before-and-after comparison. I know some will like the black better, but for me it was time for a change and I like the brushed aluminum contrast against the black.
6/2/14, 06:39 PM
#9289
Bullitt Member
Join Date: December 11, 2013
Location: Cherry Hill, NJ
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New wheels. I put these (or some like them) in another thread, but the wait and the awesomeness need double the exposure. No pun intended.
A before-and-after comparison. I know some will like the black better, but for me it was time for a change and I like the brushed aluminum contrast against the black.
A before-and-after comparison. I know some will like the black better, but for me it was time for a change and I like the brushed aluminum contrast against the black.
Rmurer...hood struts!
6/2/14, 08:32 PM
#9293
I Have No Life
New wheels. I put these (or some like them) in another thread, but the wait and the awesomeness need double the exposure. No pun intended. A before-and-after comparison. I know some will like the black better, but for me it was time for a change and I like the brushed aluminum contrast against the black.
Proxes are 315s?
Those aren't drag radials are they? How would you compare/rate them to nitto drag radials nt555r?
Please don't say AM wheels, pascal.
Edit: I saw they are nurburgrings. Thank god.
I agree 100%. All those expensive goodies under the hood, and a prop rod... Please get a cheap set of MRT or redline tuning struts :thumbsup:
6/2/14, 08:47 PM
#9294
Cobra R Member
Thread Starter
Beautiful.
Proxes are 315s?
Those aren't drag radials are they? How would you compare/rate them to nitto drag radials nt555r?
Please don't say AM wheels, pascal.
Edit: I saw they are nurburgrings. Thank god.
I agree 100%. All those expensive goodies under the hood, and a prop rod... Please get a cheap set of MRT or redline tuning struts :thumbsup:
Proxes are 315s?
Those aren't drag radials are they? How would you compare/rate them to nitto drag radials nt555r?
Please don't say AM wheels, pascal.
Edit: I saw they are nurburgrings. Thank god.
I agree 100%. All those expensive goodies under the hood, and a prop rod... Please get a cheap set of MRT or redline tuning struts :thumbsup:
you don't tell me what to do burton!
okay fine, pay day is this friday, they shall go in the shopping cart then. They are on the list of things to get. Including new rear tires.
6/2/14, 09:07 PM
#9295
I Have No Life
Hey, I'm just helping you win more car shows
Rear tires I will need by next year I think. Nitto drags are awesome but with a blower teasing me everyday it's hard to keep my foot off of the go pedal
6/2/14, 09:07 PM
#9296
Legacy TMS Member
6/2/14, 09:16 PM
#9298
Bullitt Member
6/3/14, 12:33 AM
#9299
Shelby GT500 Member
They're not designed as drag radials, though you could use them at the strip if you wanted to; they'd work as well as just about everything else save off-road tires. As far as a comparison, it's only my experience but having driven on both of them, I much prefer the 888's for performance. The 555r's just don't hold traction well enough; they get greasy too fast. The 888's bite hard and don't let go nearly as easily. The car can overpower them, sure, but I feel a lot more confident in them than I did the Nittos. The power is more usable and more predictable. Again, that's just my experience.
6/3/14, 12:34 AM
#9300
Shelby GT500 Member