Thanks for the tip. I was using Adams detailer or macGuires with clay. I'll look for the ones you mentioned.

 

Claying is one of those things that should seldom actually need to be done - if the car has clean and correct/corrected paint and is then glazed/sealed/waxed, and kept washed/waxed, bonded contaminants really shouldn't be an issue. I think a lot of people clay because they think they need to, not because they actually do. To this day I have never needed to clay an entire vehicle, I've only ever needed to do partial/spot claying, and maybe once a year if that; then again I don't correct any more than absolutely necessary - two years now on my wife's '12 Beetle since new and no correction needed even still. Don't clay for the sake of claying, run your fingers across the paint and see if it actually needs it.

Curious, how does the clay pad work when it gets bonded contaminants in it if you don't need to knead it? How does the clay pad flush out the bonded contaminants making sure that the clay on the surface of the pad is always clean?

Unrelated factoid: I once read an interesting article about how ALL automotive clay comes from the same place, it's all a monopoly anyway and is just branded differently. That said, I use the CG light clay with their Luber when needed.

 

You'd be surprised at the frequency of needed claying. You are correct, however, in the fact that spot claying is what's needed. You guys know how well I keep my cars. Heck Marilyn's never seen rain in her 3 years of life. Despite that, just from regular road driving, I get contaminants that are "stuck" on the paint and won't be removed by washing/etc. Some are still solid brake dust particles, but I think some are also from tire rubber remnants.

 

I concur sir!

 

New wheels. I put these (or some like them) in another thread, but the wait and the awesomeness need double the exposure. No pun intended.









A before-and-after comparison. I know some will like the black better, but for me it was time for a change and I like the brushed aluminum contrast against the black.

 

 

New wheels, without center cap... Which ones are they?

 

Nurburgrings?

 

Looks badass! Much better!

Rmurer...hood struts!

 

I know!

 

You won the price ! Fame!!
:-)

 

Lol I know my wheels

 

Beautiful.

Proxes are 315s?

Those aren't drag radials are they? How would you compare/rate them to nitto drag radials nt555r?

Please don't say AM wheels, pascal.

Edit: I saw they are nurburgrings. Thank god.

I agree 100%. All those expensive goodies under the hood, and a prop rod... Please get a cheap set of MRT or redline tuning struts :thumbsup:

 

you don't tell me what to do burton! okay fine, pay day is this friday, they shall go in the shopping cart then. They are on the list of things to get. Including new rear tires.

 

Hehe... I have some nerve huh?

Hey, I'm just helping you win more car shows

Rear tires I will need by next year I think. Nitto drags are awesome but with a blower teasing me everyday it's hard to keep my foot off of the go pedal

 

You're just mad that others have been pressuring you to get mods for years and when you finally do, you see they've been right all along

 

A little closer, and with center cap...

and I need to wash my car.

 

Wow!! the new ones are really nice!

 

They're not designed as drag radials, though you could use them at the strip if you wanted to; they'd work as well as just about everything else save off-road tires. As far as a comparison, it's only my experience but having driven on both of them, I much prefer the 888's for performance. The 555r's just don't hold traction well enough; they get greasy too fast. The 888's bite hard and don't let go nearly as easily. The car can overpower them, sure, but I feel a lot more confident in them than I did the Nittos. The power is more usable and more predictable. Again, that's just my experience.

 

Thanks. I thought so too when they got here. I've been out to the garage to look at them multiple times tonight.