Well the car is not OBD II compatible. Which means a normal code reader can't read it. And now the battery is dead anyhow.

Sigh, and lastly... has anyone ever changed the transmission fluid on a 94/95? Care to walk me through it?

Thanks guys.

 

Car still is having some major problems. (the 94). Maybe some of you guys could help though? So I have trouble starting it. It takes at least a good couple tries with WOT to get it to start, and even then it won't always idle. When it does idle it will do so for any time between 5 and 15 minutes. Then just die. I haven't taken it out yet because of that. Another problem is that it doesn't like being between 2K and 3K RPM. Has anyone ever had similar problems or have any idea what it could be? I have tried to rent an OBD2 scanner but unfortunately OBD2 was not standardized until... any guessers? A year after my car was built. 95. Anyone that has any ideas would be great.

Thanks guys!

Soon I plan on making Arin come over so we can check vacuum pressures. Other than that anything is fair game.

 

ignition timing, dirty fuel filter, vacum leaks, busted idle air control, throttle position sensor, very clogged air filter, mass air sensor. OBD2 wasn't standardized until 96

 

IAC valve is my guess.

 

If it was carbed, Id say that's your problem, we had a similar issue with a 84 Jeep CJ7. Your lines may be clogged, and I'd try to adjust the timing, change sparks, etc. Dont hold the throttle down, pump it a few times, then let the starter go, and you should hear it start coughing to life a little, let off the starter, and hit the gas. Let her run for a min or two, play with the throttle, rev it up, let it idle, dont let it cut off, but keep a little gas on it.

 

Why are we pumping the gas pedal on a fuel injected car? If it requires pumping then I'd say your problem is related in getting fuel to the engine. Start checking there. Fuel pump, fuel filter, fuel lines, injectors, etc.

You shouldn't have to pump the pedal on a FI car.

 

No, the throttle pedal opens and closes the butterfly valve in the throttle body, which is where airs moves into teh engine. Your fuel injectors are controlled by a throttle position sensor on the same linkage and thats what tells the car how much fuel to put in.

The reason I say Idle Air Control valve is because if its stuck closed, your engine isnt getting any air in it to stay cranked at idle, which therefore working the throttle body via pedal will allow it to get air inside.

 

Thanks guys. I will take all of this into consideration in the next few days.

Scothew, would you assume that I would need a new IAC, or would a simple clean like http://www.muscularmustangs.com/iac.php do?

 

try cleaning it, see if that helps the problem at all, if it does, then look at replacing.

 

its common on mustangs to have to clean the IAC.

 

Is it common for it to cause this much trouble?

 

Checked the IAC and the wire going to it. It's got 8.36 volts going to it, but I don't know how to check it other than that. What is the voltage supposed to be? I connected it to the battery directly (12 volts) and it opened and closed as I put it on and took it off. On another note. My TPS only reads a resistance of about 320-400 Ohms when at WOT but will not continue to read anything any lower than 5% less than WOT. Is that normal?

 

Nevermind the bit about Ohms on that last post. When reading off of pins C and B on the TPS I got a range from 3.6 at WOT to .8 Ohms at "idle". Let me know if that's normal...

 

So has the car set the MIL light?

 

On and off the light has come on, but I don't know how to get it out with the flashing lights? or whatever you do to get the codes out. Is it very easy to get an OBD1 reader?

 

AutoZone can read it
check the voltage on the tps it should be between .997 and 1.0 with the blade shut and engine off it will be the middle wire with the green stripe

 

Burnt out the IAC. buying one but it's from a 93 will it work?

I don't understand how to test the volatge on "the middle wire with the green stripe". I can see it, but do I have to strip to test it while the TB is connected? Where does the positive/negative of the voltmeter go to?

 

no 93 and 94 are completely different. put the + lead of the meter into the connector where the wire with the green stripe goes in and put the - to ground

 

Are you sure they wouldnt work though? The connectors seem to be the same. I also have a 93 throttle body, so that could be switched out if connection would be the problem.

 

All of the above could be causes... for the throttle body test, you have to pierce the wire to check the voltage - just make sure there is enough adjustment range on the sensor. might have to slot the holes where the TPS set/adjusting screws go. afterwards, use "liquid" electrical tape to seal the holes. electrical tape just won't cut it.

Check your coolant temp. sensor and air inlet temp. sensor as well, those have caused idle/stalling problems for a few people that I know - but those were Fox bodied cars... one guy even had a cracked throttle body which was discovered only after replacement and inspection (caused idle surging/stalling).