2000 mustang turn signals and hazards arent working
10/29/17, 04:45 PM
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2000 mustang turn signals and hazards arent working
Recently got me a 2000 mustang standard v6 and i can not figure how to fix my no turn signal and hazard light problem ive checked and replaced the bulbs, replaced the multifunction switch, checked every fuse and replaced the flasher relay and still nothing it leaves me frustrated the only action i get from the two is if i turn the hazards on and only the hazards the lights will come on but wont blink like there suppost to somebody please help me lol
10/31/17, 10:20 AM
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When you say switch does that mean the turn signal level itself? If so, you've done everything I could think of myself. Hopefully someone else will have a more definitive answer. If not, you may want to post your question the "SN95" section of the forum. Good luck.
Last edited by wanted33; 10/31/17 at 10:22 AM.
10/31/17, 03:15 PM
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2000 mustang turn signals and hazards arent working
Recently got me a 2000 mustang standard v6 and i can not figure how to fix my no turn signal and hazard light problem ive checked and replaced the bulbs, replaced the multifunction switch, checked every fuse and replaced the flasher relay and still nothing it leaves me frustrated the only action i get from the two is if i turn the hazards on and only the hazards the lights will come on but wont blink like there suppost to somebody please help me lol
10/31/17, 03:26 PM
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yeah thats the (switch) im talking about....idk im thinking it could be a ground somewhere but im still kind of new to messing with cars and im not 100 percent sure where all the grounds for this specific problem are at.... but thank you for your reply ill try and figure all this out and post it where you told me to
10/31/17, 03:36 PM
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turn signal and hazards not working
have a 2000 mustang thats giving me problems the turn signals and hazards arent working the most i get is when i push the hazards they come on but dont blink,
ive replaced every bulb, the multifunction switch on the steering column and the flasher relay, ive checked fuses as well any ideas on what my problem is
ive replaced every bulb, the multifunction switch on the steering column and the flasher relay, ive checked fuses as well any ideas on what my problem is
11/2/17, 10:43 AM
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At the top left of the page you'll see "forums", hover and a drop down will have "Mustang by Model Year", hover and the drop down will have "SN95". Click that, and then post your question there. There's a lot of good folks there that may be able to help ya. Good luck, and as you say it could be a ground wire.
3/27/21, 02:53 PM
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Recently got me a 2000 mustang standard v6 and i can not figure how to fix my no turn signal and hazard light problem ive checked and replaced the bulbs, replaced the multifunction switch, checked every fuse and replaced the flasher relay and still nothing it leaves me frustrated the only action i get from the two is if i turn the hazards on and only the hazards the lights will come on but wont blink like there suppost to somebody please help me lol
3/27/21, 03:57 PM
#10
Legacy TMS Member
First, welcome to the forums! 
So the thing is, it's been 4 years, and the last time OP posted was... well, here, that last reply two above your post.
Let us reset a little bit... you have the same problem? You get no turn signals at all? And your hazard switch makes the lights come on, but not flash?
If yes on both, well, that's indicating a problem with the flasher or the multiswitch... which you've replaced each multiple times, so it's obviously not either of those, unless you've had some *incredibly* bad luck.
So... now what. Well, now what is I don't actually say to go to google, and I don't actually say to search for '99-04 Mustang Shop Manual', and I absolutely don't say to go to *mumbles the name of some other forum that pretty much shows up first or second link* and whatever you do, don't click on the link that might possibly send you to a really badly designed website but what still has a certain file I can't mention, being sure to click on the upper left 'get it 66.11MB' button thingy, and let's be sure to not download said obscurely referenced file and then bring it up in Adobe Reader once it's on your computer.
Yessir, none of those things need to happen. With that semi-necessary silliness outta the way for legal reasons because apes together strong and I like the stock and this is not legal advice and all that....
You (don't) get that and you look on page 4179. There's the wiring diagram.
Now you acquire a multimeter (no really, I mean it this time, get one) and... yeah. Start tracing. There is likely a short or an open connection or a bad ground... it will be a chore, and you won't like it and it'll just be awful... or maybe it'll be the first thing you look at. Either way, this is how you solve it. Tracing/testing/all that.
The most likely problem is a ground that's bad, causing the electricity to want to flow to the next best ground. So I'd check those first, and the diagram shows you where they'd be, which are the left front and right front of engine bay, the right rear of trunk, and one somewhere under the dash center. If you can't get to the ground bolt/connections, you may have to resort to making a new one. Be sure to bare metal all parts of that ground, then spray with paint or rubber after making that happen. Also, be sure where that new screw is going to go doesn't interfere with anything else. Would kind of be a bummer to stick a new self-tapper in the firewall and punch a hole in brake line or something.
I'd also test for 12V at both inputs of the flashers, pins 2 and 3, where 2 is key on only, and 3 is always on.
I'd also be looking at *any* modifications from stock that might have something to do with it. Not talking aftermarket flashers or multiswitch, but some alarm or something like that where they hack into the wiring. If that applies, that is.
And then... after that... continuity checks from point a to point b, which will require some long wires between ends, and then solving any weirdness in between.
No lie, this is going to (siphon with a large amount of negative pressure), but it's going to be the only way you're solving this, tracing and testing. Always fun chasing down electrical issues.
Hope that helps, and good luck!
So the thing is, it's been 4 years, and the last time OP posted was... well, here, that last reply two above your post.
Let us reset a little bit... you have the same problem? You get no turn signals at all? And your hazard switch makes the lights come on, but not flash?
If yes on both, well, that's indicating a problem with the flasher or the multiswitch... which you've replaced each multiple times, so it's obviously not either of those, unless you've had some *incredibly* bad luck.
So... now what. Well, now what is I don't actually say to go to google, and I don't actually say to search for '99-04 Mustang Shop Manual', and I absolutely don't say to go to *mumbles the name of some other forum that pretty much shows up first or second link* and whatever you do, don't click on the link that might possibly send you to a really badly designed website but what still has a certain file I can't mention, being sure to click on the upper left 'get it 66.11MB' button thingy, and let's be sure to not download said obscurely referenced file and then bring it up in Adobe Reader once it's on your computer.
Yessir, none of those things need to happen. With that semi-necessary silliness outta the way for legal reasons because apes together strong and I like the stock and this is not legal advice and all that....
You (don't) get that and you look on page 4179. There's the wiring diagram.
Now you acquire a multimeter (no really, I mean it this time, get one) and... yeah. Start tracing. There is likely a short or an open connection or a bad ground... it will be a chore, and you won't like it and it'll just be awful... or maybe it'll be the first thing you look at. Either way, this is how you solve it. Tracing/testing/all that.
The most likely problem is a ground that's bad, causing the electricity to want to flow to the next best ground. So I'd check those first, and the diagram shows you where they'd be, which are the left front and right front of engine bay, the right rear of trunk, and one somewhere under the dash center. If you can't get to the ground bolt/connections, you may have to resort to making a new one. Be sure to bare metal all parts of that ground, then spray with paint or rubber after making that happen. Also, be sure where that new screw is going to go doesn't interfere with anything else. Would kind of be a bummer to stick a new self-tapper in the firewall and punch a hole in brake line or something.
I'd also test for 12V at both inputs of the flashers, pins 2 and 3, where 2 is key on only, and 3 is always on.
I'd also be looking at *any* modifications from stock that might have something to do with it. Not talking aftermarket flashers or multiswitch, but some alarm or something like that where they hack into the wiring. If that applies, that is.
And then... after that... continuity checks from point a to point b, which will require some long wires between ends, and then solving any weirdness in between.
No lie, this is going to (siphon with a large amount of negative pressure), but it's going to be the only way you're solving this, tracing and testing. Always fun chasing down electrical issues.
Hope that helps, and good luck!
3/27/21, 07:43 PM
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Thank you!
First, welcome to the forums!
So the thing is, it's been 4 years, and the last time OP posted was... well, here, that last reply two above your post.
Let us reset a little bit... you have the same problem? You get no turn signals at all? And your hazard switch makes the lights come on, but not flash?
If yes on both, well, that's indicating a problem with the flasher or the multiswitch... which you've replaced each multiple times, so it's obviously not either of those, unless you've had some *incredibly* bad luck.
So... now what. Well, now what is I don't actually say to go to google, and I don't actually say to search for '99-04 Mustang Shop Manual', and I absolutely don't say to go to *mumbles the name of some other forum that pretty much shows up first or second link* and whatever you do, don't click on the link that might possibly send you to a really badly designed website but what still has a certain file I can't mention, being sure to click on the upper left 'get it 66.11MB' button thingy, and let's be sure to not download said obscurely referenced file and then bring it up in Adobe Reader once it's on your computer.
Yessir, none of those things need to happen. With that semi-necessary silliness outta the way for legal reasons because apes together strong and I like the stock and this is not legal advice and all that....
You (don't) get that and you look on page 4179. There's the wiring diagram.
Now you acquire a multimeter (no really, I mean it this time, get one) and... yeah. Start tracing. There is likely a short or an open connection or a bad ground... it will be a chore, and you won't like it and it'll just be awful... or maybe it'll be the first thing you look at. Either way, this is how you solve it. Tracing/testing/all that.
The most likely problem is a ground that's bad, causing the electricity to want to flow to the next best ground. So I'd check those first, and the diagram shows you where they'd be, which are the left front and right front of engine bay, the right rear of trunk, and one somewhere under the dash center. If you can't get to the ground bolt/connections, you may have to resort to making a new one. Be sure to bare metal all parts of that ground, then spray with paint or rubber after making that happen. Also, be sure where that new screw is going to go doesn't interfere with anything else. Would kind of be a bummer to stick a new self-tapper in the firewall and punch a hole in brake line or something.
I'd also test for 12V at both inputs of the flashers, pins 2 and 3, where 2 is key on only, and 3 is always on.
I'd also be looking at *any* modifications from stock that might have something to do with it. Not talking aftermarket flashers or multiswitch, but some alarm or something like that where they hack into the wiring. If that applies, that is.
And then... after that... continuity checks from point a to point b, which will require some long wires between ends, and then solving any weirdness in between.
No lie, this is going to (siphon with a large amount of negative pressure), but it's going to be the only way you're solving this, tracing and testing. Always fun chasing down electrical issues.
Hope that helps, and good luck!
So the thing is, it's been 4 years, and the last time OP posted was... well, here, that last reply two above your post.
Let us reset a little bit... you have the same problem? You get no turn signals at all? And your hazard switch makes the lights come on, but not flash?
If yes on both, well, that's indicating a problem with the flasher or the multiswitch... which you've replaced each multiple times, so it's obviously not either of those, unless you've had some *incredibly* bad luck.
So... now what. Well, now what is I don't actually say to go to google, and I don't actually say to search for '99-04 Mustang Shop Manual', and I absolutely don't say to go to *mumbles the name of some other forum that pretty much shows up first or second link* and whatever you do, don't click on the link that might possibly send you to a really badly designed website but what still has a certain file I can't mention, being sure to click on the upper left 'get it 66.11MB' button thingy, and let's be sure to not download said obscurely referenced file and then bring it up in Adobe Reader once it's on your computer.
Yessir, none of those things need to happen. With that semi-necessary silliness outta the way for legal reasons because apes together strong and I like the stock and this is not legal advice and all that....
You (don't) get that and you look on page 4179. There's the wiring diagram.
Now you acquire a multimeter (no really, I mean it this time, get one) and... yeah. Start tracing. There is likely a short or an open connection or a bad ground... it will be a chore, and you won't like it and it'll just be awful... or maybe it'll be the first thing you look at. Either way, this is how you solve it. Tracing/testing/all that.
The most likely problem is a ground that's bad, causing the electricity to want to flow to the next best ground. So I'd check those first, and the diagram shows you where they'd be, which are the left front and right front of engine bay, the right rear of trunk, and one somewhere under the dash center. If you can't get to the ground bolt/connections, you may have to resort to making a new one. Be sure to bare metal all parts of that ground, then spray with paint or rubber after making that happen. Also, be sure where that new screw is going to go doesn't interfere with anything else. Would kind of be a bummer to stick a new self-tapper in the firewall and punch a hole in brake line or something.
I'd also test for 12V at both inputs of the flashers, pins 2 and 3, where 2 is key on only, and 3 is always on.
I'd also be looking at *any* modifications from stock that might have something to do with it. Not talking aftermarket flashers or multiswitch, but some alarm or something like that where they hack into the wiring. If that applies, that is.
And then... after that... continuity checks from point a to point b, which will require some long wires between ends, and then solving any weirdness in between.
No lie, this is going to (siphon with a large amount of negative pressure), but it's going to be the only way you're solving this, tracing and testing. Always fun chasing down electrical issues.
Hope that helps, and good luck!
7/9/22, 11:01 AM
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First, welcome to the forums!
So the thing is, it's been 4 years, and the last time OP posted was... well, here, that last reply two above your post.
Let us reset a little bit... you have the same problem? You get no turn signals at all? And your hazard switch makes the lights come on, but not flash?
If yes on both, well, that's indicating a problem with the flasher or the multiswitch... which you've replaced each multiple times, so it's obviously not either of those, unless you've had some *incredibly* bad luck.
So... now what. Well, now what is I don't actually say to go to google, and I don't actually say to search for '99-04 Mustang Shop Manual', and I absolutely don't say to go to *mumbles the name of some other forum that pretty much shows up first or second link* and whatever you do, don't click on the link that might possibly send you to a really badly designed website but what still has a certain file I can't mention, being sure to click on the upper left 'get it 66.11MB' button thingy, and let's be sure to not download said obscurely referenced file and then bring it up in Adobe Reader once it's on your computer.
Yessir, none of those things need to happen. With that semi-necessary silliness outta the way for legal reasons because apes together strong and I like the stock and this is not legal advice and all that....
You (don't) get that and you look on page 4179. There's the wiring diagram.
Now you acquire a multimeter (no really, I mean it this time, get one) and... yeah. Start tracing. There is likely a short or an open connection or a bad ground... it will be a chore, and you won't like it and it'll just be awful... or maybe it'll be the first thing you look at. Either way, this is how you solve it. Tracing/testing/all that.
The most likely problem is a ground that's bad, causing the electricity to want to flow to the next best ground. So I'd check those first, and the diagram shows you where they'd be, which are the left front and right front of engine bay, the right rear of trunk, and one somewhere under the dash center. If you can't get to the ground bolt/connections, you may have to resort to making a new one. Be sure to bare metal all parts of that ground, then spray with paint or rubber after making that happen. Also, be sure where that new screw is going to go doesn't interfere with anything else. Would kind of be a bummer to stick a new self-tapper in the firewall and punch a hole in brake line or something.
I'd also test for 12V at both inputs of the flashers, pins 2 and 3, where 2 is key on only, and 3 is always on.
I'd also be looking at *any* modifications from stock that might have something to do with it. Not talking aftermarket flashers or multiswitch, but some alarm or something like that where they hack into the wiring. If that applies, that is.
And then... after that... continuity checks from point a to point b, which will require some long wires between ends, and then solving any weirdness in between.
No lie, this is going to (siphon with a large amount of negative pressure), but it's going to be the only way you're solving this, tracing and testing. Always fun chasing down electrical issues.
Hope that helps, and good luck!
So the thing is, it's been 4 years, and the last time OP posted was... well, here, that last reply two above your post.
Let us reset a little bit... you have the same problem? You get no turn signals at all? And your hazard switch makes the lights come on, but not flash?
If yes on both, well, that's indicating a problem with the flasher or the multiswitch... which you've replaced each multiple times, so it's obviously not either of those, unless you've had some *incredibly* bad luck.
So... now what. Well, now what is I don't actually say to go to google, and I don't actually say to search for '99-04 Mustang Shop Manual', and I absolutely don't say to go to *mumbles the name of some other forum that pretty much shows up first or second link* and whatever you do, don't click on the link that might possibly send you to a really badly designed website but what still has a certain file I can't mention, being sure to click on the upper left 'get it 66.11MB' button thingy, and let's be sure to not download said obscurely referenced file and then bring it up in Adobe Reader once it's on your computer.
Yessir, none of those things need to happen. With that semi-necessary silliness outta the way for legal reasons because apes together strong and I like the stock and this is not legal advice and all that....
You (don't) get that and you look on page 4179. There's the wiring diagram.
Now you acquire a multimeter (no really, I mean it this time, get one) and... yeah. Start tracing. There is likely a short or an open connection or a bad ground... it will be a chore, and you won't like it and it'll just be awful... or maybe it'll be the first thing you look at. Either way, this is how you solve it. Tracing/testing/all that.
The most likely problem is a ground that's bad, causing the electricity to want to flow to the next best ground. So I'd check those first, and the diagram shows you where they'd be, which are the left front and right front of engine bay, the right rear of trunk, and one somewhere under the dash center. If you can't get to the ground bolt/connections, you may have to resort to making a new one. Be sure to bare metal all parts of that ground, then spray with paint or rubber after making that happen. Also, be sure where that new screw is going to go doesn't interfere with anything else. Would kind of be a bummer to stick a new self-tapper in the firewall and punch a hole in brake line or something.
I'd also test for 12V at both inputs of the flashers, pins 2 and 3, where 2 is key on only, and 3 is always on.
I'd also be looking at *any* modifications from stock that might have something to do with it. Not talking aftermarket flashers or multiswitch, but some alarm or something like that where they hack into the wiring. If that applies, that is.
And then... after that... continuity checks from point a to point b, which will require some long wires between ends, and then solving any weirdness in between.
No lie, this is going to (siphon with a large amount of negative pressure), but it's going to be the only way you're solving this, tracing and testing. Always fun chasing down electrical issues.
Hope that helps, and good luck!
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