Trufiber Gts2
#362
Shelby GT350 Member
Join Date: April 9, 2007
Location: Ellenton, FL
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JonCo,
What do you mean "not good results"? When you remove the bead - it is BARE fiberglass - you need to re-seal it before you paint. Did they make a HOLE??? You only need to grind it down level - Did they dig a channel in the hood? Could you be a little more specific for others?
I was there when my shop removed the bead (we checked the underside of the hood, by looking through the hood latch hole, to make sure it wasn't structural). It *looked* ugly because it was bare fiberglass, but there was still plenty of fiberglass to re-seal.... no problems..
Thanks,
Bill
What do you mean "not good results"? When you remove the bead - it is BARE fiberglass - you need to re-seal it before you paint. Did they make a HOLE??? You only need to grind it down level - Did they dig a channel in the hood? Could you be a little more specific for others?
I was there when my shop removed the bead (we checked the underside of the hood, by looking through the hood latch hole, to make sure it wasn't structural). It *looked* ugly because it was bare fiberglass, but there was still plenty of fiberglass to re-seal.... no problems..
Thanks,
Bill
Again, I looked into the ram air vents I dont understand how your all sanding it down without any type of reglass/filler. In the ram vents on my hood(where the bead is over) its raised to the contour of the bead on top. If it is sanded I dont understand why you all aren't going through the hood.
Saw the hood today in all primer. I honestly dont mind it anymore and even less when its painted. I'm extremely anxious to get it done. Assuming all goes according to plan I should be done by friday/saturday.
Anyways, this coming SUnday theres a good sized Mustang show at our local mall. Be great to enter the car for the first time. We'll see how that turns out
#363
Again, I looked into the ram air vents I dont understand how your all sanding it down without any type of reglass/filler. In the ram vents on my hood(where the bead is over) its raised to the contour of the bead on top. If it is sanded I dont understand why you all aren't going through the hood.
Maybe you received a thin-glassed hood! I just checked mine again - the "top" on the inside of the scoops is perfectly flat - there was never any hint of the bead looking up from the bottom. Maybe the thickness of the fiberglass varies from hood to hood.
Based on this - I would recommend people double-check the glass thickness by looking at the roof of the scoops. If it's flat - you're OK. If NOT - DON'T GRIND IT!!!
Maybe Phil could chime in here and let us know if we should expect variation in the thickness of the fiberglass....
Thanks for the heads-up JonCo.
Bill
#364
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Join Date: April 9, 2007
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Yikes!!
Maybe you received a thin-glassed hood! I just checked mine again - the "top" on the inside of the scoops is perfectly flat - there was never any hint of the bead looking up from the bottom. Maybe the thickness of the fiberglass varies from hood to hood.
Based on this - I would recommend people double-check the glass thickness by looking at the roof of the scoops. If it's flat - you're OK. If NOT - DON'T GRIND IT!!!
Maybe Phil could chime in here and let us know if we should expect variation in the thickness of the fiberglass....
Thanks for the heads-up JonCo.
Bill
Maybe you received a thin-glassed hood! I just checked mine again - the "top" on the inside of the scoops is perfectly flat - there was never any hint of the bead looking up from the bottom. Maybe the thickness of the fiberglass varies from hood to hood.
Based on this - I would recommend people double-check the glass thickness by looking at the roof of the scoops. If it's flat - you're OK. If NOT - DON'T GRIND IT!!!
Maybe Phil could chime in here and let us know if we should expect variation in the thickness of the fiberglass....
Thanks for the heads-up JonCo.
Bill
Yup no problem. Luckly I wont be charged for the extra work done since i told him with his co-workers around yous your best judgement as far as the shaping of the hood. Either way its a sharp looking hood!
#365
GTR Member
o.k. heres the latest for me...took my hood to a well known custom shop in Tampa http://ronniesetser.com/ this guy knows his ****e! He said that even though the hood was decent,it was average like all of the fiberglass ones are. It needs quite a bit of work. He showed me how it was rippled near the front and how the edges were rough and not exactly straight. He also said he is gonna remove the bead and fill it in. Jon was right. the hood needs to be installed first and driven around as much as possible for a week to let the fiberglass cure. This guy is expensive I'm not even getting the underside glossy because of the extra work needed therefore more $$$$$.It will be satin(like the stocker)..He said usually the hood struts are for heavier hoods and therefore put a lot of pressure on the hood . He can tell when he installs them if it is too much..He said you can buy struts specifically made for lighter hoods. I'll check into it. Once I get the car back to him it will take 5 to 7 working days to complete..He also posts pics of the work so that you can see the progress Click on gallery and then on projects. Mine will be on there the middle of the week with the ugly white hood install I feel much better about this place because of the past work done and he is **** More to come.....
#366
I look under the top layer after I got the hood back and I see the indentation you are vtalking about...I also saw the painter tonight and I asked him about this, he said when they removed the bead, the fiberglass was still very thick, there were pin holes that were very deep,, again , no problems in this area so far.
As far as my car goes,I found out the hard way about summer only tires last night, but I really lucked out, could have been a lot lot worse, back end came around on me, it was like sliding on ice, cut the wheels all the way to countersteer out of it, forget it, ended up sliding down the guardrail with the bumper. Sounded and felt a lot worse than it was, just need a new bumper and that's it!!!
So tionight, i took bathmats and am placing them on the hood in the places that are WARPED, I am placing weights on thbne locations that need to go down, who know if this will work, but it is worth a try. I think i will leave it for about 48 hrs. Cant do anything about the gaps though
Those who have had your hood done...Did you have the underneath done like I did?
As far as my car goes,I found out the hard way about summer only tires last night, but I really lucked out, could have been a lot lot worse, back end came around on me, it was like sliding on ice, cut the wheels all the way to countersteer out of it, forget it, ended up sliding down the guardrail with the bumper. Sounded and felt a lot worse than it was, just need a new bumper and that's it!!!
So tionight, i took bathmats and am placing them on the hood in the places that are WARPED, I am placing weights on thbne locations that need to go down, who know if this will work, but it is worth a try. I think i will leave it for about 48 hrs. Cant do anything about the gaps though
Those who have had your hood done...Did you have the underneath done like I did?
#367
Glad to hear you made it through allright - bumpers can be easily replaced! well... maybe not EASILY....but it could have been worse.
I forgot to take pictures of the underside - I have one below... it's finished the same as the top side.
One thing I did notice - my factory prop rod is REALLY straining - it's noticable... Our factory hoods were aluminum - VERY light weight. These fiberglass ones are considerably HEAVIER!! I think maybe you would need to get heavier duty struts to hold the additional weight (if you use struts)... I'll be looking for a heavier prop rod - you can really bend it now.
Bill
#370
Dave,
Glad to hear you made it through allright - bumpers can be easily replaced! well... maybe not EASILY....but it could have been worse.
I forgot to take pictures of the underside - I have one below... it's finished the same as the top side.
One thing I did notice - my factory prop rod is REALLY straining - it's noticable... Our factory hoods were aluminum - VERY light weight. These fiberglass ones are considerably HEAVIER!! I think maybe you would need to get heavier duty struts to hold the additional weight (if you use struts)... I'll be looking for a heavier prop rod - you can really bend it now.
Bill
Glad to hear you made it through allright - bumpers can be easily replaced! well... maybe not EASILY....but it could have been worse.
I forgot to take pictures of the underside - I have one below... it's finished the same as the top side.
One thing I did notice - my factory prop rod is REALLY straining - it's noticable... Our factory hoods were aluminum - VERY light weight. These fiberglass ones are considerably HEAVIER!! I think maybe you would need to get heavier duty struts to hold the additional weight (if you use struts)... I'll be looking for a heavier prop rod - you can really bend it now.
Bill
Mine is MINT, just like the outside, hope it is just the pic...Your outside shot are FANTASTIC
#371
It's the picture - taken at night with a droplight for illumination....
I'll get a better one over the weekend (and replace this one). The underside looks EXACTLY like the top side. I was surprised - I told him just to give it a quick squirt. He wound up giving it two coats of paint + clearcoat!!! He's worried I'm going to take it to a show and someone will ask "who painted it?"
Bill
I'll get a better one over the weekend (and replace this one). The underside looks EXACTLY like the top side. I was surprised - I told him just to give it a quick squirt. He wound up giving it two coats of paint + clearcoat!!! He's worried I'm going to take it to a show and someone will ask "who painted it?"
Bill
#372
I picked up my old hood from the shop today... I loaded it into the back of my pickup with ONE HAND - even as bulky as it is! I haven't weighed it - but if I had to guess, I would say 20 lbs TOPS! I'm not that good on the low end of the scale - so it might even be closer to 15 lbs.
Bill
#373
Mach 1 Member
So what are those of you with this hood using for the washer relocations? Im thinking about buying this hood but since my car is a daily driver I may need to use those windshield spray washers, so Id prefer not to just leave them off the car altogether.
#375
The hood was warped from day one!
I only damaged my bumper cover in my little accident, it was a sliding collision, not an impact collision...the HOOD is exactly as it was!!!
#376
Shelby GT350 Member
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But you do have hood struts correct? Anyone else have any problems with a warped hood?
#377
Dave,
Did you have issue with the hood before or after you installed it?
I was wondering if the hood warped after it exposed to the engine heat and causing it to warp? Hummmm
#378
GTR Member
My unpainted hood is a perfect fit and the hood struts are perfect as well I need to drive mine around as much as possible for 7 days before it gets painted. Not putting nozzles on right yet. Just tucked the hose into the fender. This is being done by a custom shop and is very pricy I'm scared to tell you guys how much
#379
Mach 1 Member
My unpainted hood is a perfect fit and the hood struts are perfect as well I need to drive mine around as much as possible for 7 days before it gets painted. Not putting nozzles on right yet. Just tucked the hose into the fender. This is being done by a custom shop and is very pricy I'm scared to tell you guys how much
#380
My unpainted hood is a perfect fit and the hood struts are perfect as well I need to drive mine around as much as possible for 7 days before it gets painted. Not putting nozzles on right yet. Just tucked the hose into the fender. This is being done by a custom shop and is very pricy I'm scared to tell you guys how much
Hummmmm....couple pages back, Scott stated that his hood struts caused his hood to warp. The hood fit perfect after he removed the struts. I am curious if your hood struts any different than his. Will it be a problem later. Hopefully your body shop could help...thnx