Trufiber Gts2
#321
Legacy TMS Member
Just a personal observation from the photos you provided. It looks like the drivers front of the hood is up about 1/8" to 3/16" and from the 4th photo down it looks like the rear of the passenger side of the hood is above the fender line with the most seperation about half way back on the hood. Have these been since aligned?
Also can you tell me whose rear spoiler you're using? It looks great.
Thanks
BB
Semper Fi
Also can you tell me whose rear spoiler you're using? It looks great.
Thanks
BB
Semper Fi
#322
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Just a personal observation from the photos you provided. It looks like the drivers front of the hood is up about 1/8" to 3/16" and from the 4th photo down it looks like the rear of the passenger side of the hood is above the fender line with the most seperation about half way back on the hood. Have these been since aligned?
Also can you tell me whose rear spoiler you're using? It looks great.
Thanks
BB
Semper Fi
Also can you tell me whose rear spoiler you're using? It looks great.
Thanks
BB
Semper Fi
The rear spoiler is the Cervini's ducktail.
#323
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#324
The stripes are painted on. They were done by a great shop called SW Body and Paint in Azusa, Ca. There was several hours of block sanding prep that was done, but nothing major. The hood bolted right on with a perfect fit. I'm still not understanding why your body guy needed to change the holes for it to fit right on your car. At yesterday's Fun Ford Weekend in Fontana, Ca., my car was on display with Hardcore Mustangs & TruFiber. Phil from TruFiber was there along with 10 hoods(all different styles) for the 2005+ GT. After discussing your fitment issue, they decided to test fit each of the 10 hoods on my car, and every single one bolted right on to the factory hardware and closed with a perfect fit. This is why I was kind of dismayed on the phone with what you said your body guy did.
Were these 10 hoods GTS2 hoods? I did not think there was 10 of these hoods anywhere yet!
#325
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Did a random google search. You can buy the GTS2 hood from other sites for around $480 + shipping. Not MUCH cheaper but still cheaper. Wonder how that was managed...
#326
#327
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Sounds like other vendors may have a lower overhead or work with a lower markup...
One thing to consider is customer service (if you have any problems). A few more $ is a small price to pay for good service.
One thing to consider is customer service (if you have any problems). A few more $ is a small price to pay for good service.
#328
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Yeah, thats what I always figure. I ussually tend to pay the extra to deal with one of the vendors advertised here on the boards then buying from someone else. But what also got me was the shipping from this other site was also cheaper then what I had to pay. Too late now, I have my hood in the game room.
#330
As far as shipping goes...
Most truck shipping gives you a break if you ship to a business address (with a receiver/loading dock) - the break is typically VERY significant (up to 50% of the shipping).
We did NOT get that break with this deal...
Anyway.. the hood's in the shop and it will be going on the car by week's end...
Most truck shipping gives you a break if you ship to a business address (with a receiver/loading dock) - the break is typically VERY significant (up to 50% of the shipping).
We did NOT get that break with this deal...
Anyway.. the hood's in the shop and it will be going on the car by week's end...
#331
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#332
GTR Member
I can't believe they have it and for cheaper no less.With the hood price and shipping ,I could have saved at least 50.00. Thats 50.00 toward another mod(or a good amount of beer)
I am happy w/ the cust service though
I am happy w/ the cust service though
#333
Legacy Supercharged Tms Member
I think the issue here is availability - I don't see any mention on the fasttoys site of when they will ship. I think BMC had rights to the first batch of 10 for our group buy. From what I understand the next batch of GTS-2 hoods won't be out for about 6 weeks. If that's the case, then the extra 50 bucks was money well spent. Mine should be out of the body shop in the next couple of weeks (I'm having some mods done to the hood, including stripe painting). I'll post pics when it's done.
#335
GTR Member
Took hood in today. At first the guy was a little snippy but the asst mgr.got him to shut up. He says" well I can't just drop everything and do it. It's gonna have to be a little at a time. His asst mgr,who is a woman,told him don't worry about it. we'll take care of it" .I've been to this shop before and one thing they strive for is excellent cust service so I think she was a little embarassed
Anyway it will take about a week.$402.00
the guy did not recommend hood struts so I'm gonna buy a stainless prop rod and sell my hood struts.
Anyway it will take about a week.$402.00
the guy did not recommend hood struts so I'm gonna buy a stainless prop rod and sell my hood struts.
#336
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Took hood in today. At first the guy was a little snippy but the asst mgr.got him to shut up. He says" well I can't just drop everything and do it. It's gonna have to be a little at a time. His asst mgr,who is a woman,told him don't worry about it. we'll take care of it" .I've been to this shop before and one thing they strive for is excellent cust service so I think she was a little embarassed
Anyway it will take about a week.$402.00
the guy did not recommend hood struts so I'm gonna buy a stainless prop rod and sell my hood struts.
Anyway it will take about a week.$402.00
the guy did not recommend hood struts so I'm gonna buy a stainless prop rod and sell my hood struts.
My shop said red was the most expensive color per bottle to buy. I'm looking at around $500-$600... But he'll take my car and do the job in acouple days. Most annoying thing is he's having me put it on and drive it unpainted for a couple weeks... For it to settle naturally and avoid any cracking in the paint later.
#337
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My shop said red was the most expensive color per bottle to buy. I'm looking at around $500-$600... But he'll take my car and do the job in acouple days. Most annoying thing is he's having me put it on and drive it unpainted for a couple weeks... For it to settle naturally and avoid any cracking in the paint later.
There is no reason at all to ever need fiberglass to "settle naturally". That is like being told to take a new boat out and run it for a while before painting or color gelcoating it. I would avoid that shop like the plague if I were told that! It shows their lack of knowledge with dealing with fiberglass. The hood will take a bit of block sanding as do all fiberglass parts, followed by the initial coat of primer. That will set in and will bring out some pin holes in the gelcoat. This is perfectly normal. Then the holes are filled, block sanded, and a base coat is normally shot. They should then be able to see any waves or humps that need to be sanded down. After sanding, the hood is usually reshot with a primer(any new pin holes filled), light sanded, followed by a base coat and any stripe colors, followed by the clear coat(s). My hood has several clear coats, and the painted stripes cannot be felt under the clear.
#338
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Sorry I haven't posted lately. We just got back in the house after being evacuated for a couple of days due to our local fire(Running Springs, CA.) It was less than 1 mile from us when the wind changed direction in the middle of last night. We were spared, but our pool looks like a mud pit from all of the ash!
There is no reason at all to ever need fiberglass to "settle naturally". That is like being told to take a new boat out and run it for a while before painting or color gelcoating it. I would avoid that shop like the plague if I were told that! It shows their lack of knowledge with dealing with fiberglass. The hood will take a bit of block sanding as do all fiberglass parts, followed by the initial coat of primer. That will set in and will bring out some pin holes in the gelcoat. This is perfectly normal. Then the holes are filled, block sanded, and a base coat is normally shot. They should then be able to see any waves or humps that need to be sanded down. After sanding, the hood is usually reshot with a primer(any new pin holes filled), light sanded, followed by a base coat and any stripe colors, followed by the clear coat(s). My hood has several clear coats, and the painted stripes cannot be felt under the clear.
There is no reason at all to ever need fiberglass to "settle naturally". That is like being told to take a new boat out and run it for a while before painting or color gelcoating it. I would avoid that shop like the plague if I were told that! It shows their lack of knowledge with dealing with fiberglass. The hood will take a bit of block sanding as do all fiberglass parts, followed by the initial coat of primer. That will set in and will bring out some pin holes in the gelcoat. This is perfectly normal. Then the holes are filled, block sanded, and a base coat is normally shot. They should then be able to see any waves or humps that need to be sanded down. After sanding, the hood is usually reshot with a primer(any new pin holes filled), light sanded, followed by a base coat and any stripe colors, followed by the clear coat(s). My hood has several clear coats, and the painted stripes cannot be felt under the clear.
I mean the shop said they'd put it to bake then do all the nessesary work to the fiberglass. He did mention wetsanding also, Im not sure if thats better or worse for the hood over block sanding? So you dont believe in the need to mount the hood and allow it to settle under normal driving conditions or w/e. So after the hoods painted(lets assume he does a 110% perfect job) I shouldn't have any problems little down the road with the hood warping or flexing do the to heat produced by the engine, correct? I apologize for the 20 question game here.