Did you use jack stands or ramps to do the install? I'll be ordering the shifter soon and I'm wondering how much room you need. I'm from LI also.

 

I used ramps in the front and jack stands in back. This also was tight for a 240lbs man.
I'll start a diet next week

 

Did you jack the back to the same height as the front? I assume you have to or it might roll off the stands. Also - I've heard horror stories of guys stripping the threads when they install the new shifter - any tips on that?

 

I used ramps on the front and jackstands in back, I raised the back a little higher than the front. The two 10mm nuts on the back of the shifter are the ones to watch for, you don't want to pull the studs. Just use a 1/4" drive ratchet and you should be fine. It is a pretty easy install, I just need more sound deadener in the cab. I can hear alot of road noise but I bought it used and didn't have much dynomat and it didn't come with the foam.

 

I did mine with ramps in the front and stands in the rear ... But actually you want to get it as high as you can , so you can get both hands in there at the same time. That was the hardest part for me ...

 

How high can you extend the shifter? I would like something with a longer handle so I can grab it easier on the track.

 

Thanks guys - Ramps & Jacks it is.

 

I didn't even jack up the back of the car. Just stands in front if I remember correctly.

 

i put my MGW in today, not impressed, i have the white ball from mgw, adjusted 3 turns out (pointed to the drivers side ) and the handle as high as it can go. notchy as all hell. i like the stock shifter better. just wish it was a little taller. car has 3k on it. might put the MGW up for sale and buy the Hurst billet

 

I would like to suggest that you rotate the handle a little toward the center of the tunnel. Three turns out should be pretty smooth with a little longer throw. Are you sure you have everything installed properly under the car... like the shift lever block with the arrow, which should be pointing to the drivers side of the shifter.

You are one of only a few that I have read about that has been disappointed with the MGW, most of the other complaints were found to be because of improper installation... not to question your mechanical ability. But sometimes we all make mistakes in putting things together... I speak from experience!!!

If everything is installed correctly, give the shifter a few miles to loosen up. If you still are not satisfied, contact George at MGW, he will take care of you.

I've had mine for about two years (one of the first 100 produced), I love it and have not had any problems with it...

Good luck.... Bobby M.

 

Ditto.

Anytime you make a shorter throw, it will increase some notchy feel to it, its physics. If you are not happy with the MGW, I dont think you will be happy with any other shifter aside from stock.

 

installed just as the directions say. i am no newb. but this shifter isnt smooth. NOTHING like the video on the mgw website. its like the shifter hits a stump before going into gear, then pops in. no 1 or 2 finger shifting. which was possible with my stock 08 shifter. and the handle is as straight as i can get it.

there is nothing in the mgw shifter to "break in" either. its very well built, solid piece. if the stock shifter was smooth, there is no reason this shifter should be this notchy. it mechanics and leverage.

 

I had the same issue with two MGWs. Went back to the Pro 5.0. But as Stoenr said, all short shifters will be more notchy than the stocker.

 

" there is nothing in the mgw shifter to "break in" either. "

The springs will and do break in ... I got 2 sets of springs with mine and used the weaker set and it shifts very smoothly ...

 

The majority of owners here love the MGW shifter because of the short throw and adjustablilty, myself included.

Good luck with the Hurst.

 

I definitely had a break in period with mine. It was very hard to shift for the first few days and then it loosened up but I absolutely love it now and I do quite a bit of heavy stop and go traffic driving in rush hour Chicago. I absolutely love mine!

 

a centering spring has no effect on shift smoothness. MGW isnt the first to use a centering spring. hurst had them in the first T5 shifters and it didnt make them harder to shift

also springs dont break in, they weaken

 

Whether you want to say "break in" or "weaken" is just semantics ... And regardless of what you think , mine became easier to shift with time ...

 

what i "know". a engineering degree means that i "know".

break in is a "wear" term. things "break in" when friction causes "wear" and the object/s lose material causing greater/larger clearances.

items/parts "weaken" lose tension, by repeated use or OVER extension or compression. NOT buy wear, loss of material. clearances are NOT greater.

so before you attempt to tell me what i think. maybe you should know a little bit about what your talking about. K????

 

I say I break in my new shoes. They feel better after a few days of wearing.
I dont say I weaken my new shoes. As mentioned, semantics. This "aint" Engrish class.