http://www.allfordmustangs.com/forum...tml#post836149

There are some vids in the above post that will give you a good idea of how the obx headers sound.

 

Hey thanks for the link. That's the combo I've been thinking about LT,offroad x/h and the mid-mufflers. Except I'm still thinking maybe the BBK headers and X-pipe, but that definately sounds good.

 

So how many have gone this route? I've saved the ebay listing for future reference. If ARH and Kooks cut their prices in half they'd sell a lot more now that other options are available.

 

I am not sure how many guys have went with the OBX brand but I helped Larry (Airecare) put his on and I am going to place my order in the next two days. Just trying to time them for delivery after the 1st of the year. I can tell you the quality of these headers is equal to ARH or Kooks. Only the price is different. No one should have any reservations purchasing these headers. I have 32 years in the tool and die trade and I build things everyday. I reconize quality work or trash work very easily. These headers have the quality equal to any American brand at about 1/3 the price. I personally would not spend $1,500 on headers but after seeing these headers in person and going through Larry's install I have no issues with them.
Scott

 

Amen to that! here too.

 

Mine just showed up today. Look decent to me, but I haven't held a set of headers in my hand since..oh...1980 when I bought some for a 351C in a Torino. (****, I'm getting old!)

Few questions....(didn't have computers on cars back then!!)

Aldready got updated tunes from Doug at bamachips.com. But what the heck do I do with the 02 Sensors since these only have holes in the collectors? If I read correctly we need to extend the front ones to fit to the back. Then what do you do with the connectors that were for the rears? Need to cap them or just tie them up out of the way?

And the clamps that came with these...
Band clamps and a couple C clamps...anyone remember which ones they put where...

How high up on jack stands do I need to be. Hell, I don't even own a floor jack..you know...let a friend borrow it and it got stolen. So I'm off to start buying the necessities. (Thanks to the list earlier in the thread!!)

Kid will be coming home on leave from the USMC this weekend, he's looking forward to the install as much as me!! Can't wait to hear long tubes and GTA's in person!!!

 

Maybe I can answer a few of your questions. The front O2 sensors go in the bungs on the headers. You need to get O2 extenders for them or make your own. The rear O2 sensors are left out and turned off in you new tune. Just tie up the unused O2 wire ends. The C-clamps go on the H-pipe where they slide together. The band clamps go on where the headers and h - pipes connect. Hope this helps!
Scott

 

Scott,
That helps ALOT! You know..just a few less things to worry about. Now to look for extensions between now and Saturday. I do have a friend that could extend my existing ones..I'm not a solder'er! Thanks for the feed back!!

 

John,
You'll need it up as high as you can with the jack stands.
You will need a floor jack, though. You have to unbolt & remove the 2 motor mounts & then jack the motor up another 2-3" to get the headers up & in place. Otherwise, they'll not clear the frame/bellhousing on the pass. side.
You'll also need to cut down 2-3 of the factory exhaust manifold studs, won't fit with the headers installed. Or get replacement bolts.
Quite a bit more involved, read through Faber's install, helped me prepare.
I ended up buying O2 extenders, but otherwise figure on adding about 12-16" onto the O2 sensors.

 

I pulled a few of the studs and put them back after the headers were in place, but did not cut any of them. I also did not move the steering shaft either. just jacked up the motor.

 

Man, must not have been paying attention..missed the part about cutting down the bolts. Looked at headers, I take it the studs are too long where the pipe bends right in front of the hole. Would have been cursing big time to find that out later!! Thanks!!! Gonna have to get a hack saw now. Time to start re-reading all the install threads!!

Any other weird, easily overlooked tidbits of info??

 

Faber..
Thanks! Guess we were posting at the same time. Thought the steering linkage was an issue on all the installs I've read, even with jacking up the motor. Supposed to be one bolt under the dash that can be removed so as not to mess with the one in front..But hey, if your jacking up the motor any according to everyone and NOT have to screw with the steering..that's even better. Appreciate that!!!

 

For what its worth, I removed the steering linkage and the Dipstick when installing the driver side header...In every writeup I have looked over each of them said to remove it, but whether or not its necessary- it makes a little 'roomier' in there with it removed.

 

how would you guys rate the install on a 1-10 scale for difficulty???

10 being take it to a mechanic and 1 being do it single handedly

 

I would rate it a 1 on that scale.
On the pain in the butt scale I would call it a 5.

The only reason I would take it to a mechanic to get this done would be to avoid the work. The actual job is not that hard if you do it right.

Things that will make your life easier:

• remove the battery tray.
• Unbolt the mount brackets and jack up the motor.
• a craftsmen 1/2 inch ratcheting box end wrench.
• buy o2 extensions instead of making them
• WD40 or liquid wrench for stubborn exhaust bolts

 

I'm helping my neighbor install a lift, hopefully I can use it for this.

 

I didn't have to touch the steering linkage on mine, but I did forget about having to remove the dipstick tube,have to to clear the header flange.

 

Hey Larry,
I remember we said you needed a spacer to move the dipstick tube out from the header flange. Did you do anything with that yet. If not I can get 2 of them made in a jiffy. I just need to know the dimensions.
Scott

 

Scott,
1/2" thick, center hole dia.5/16"+, outer dia 1/2"
The bolt measures about 5/16",need a little slop.

Reinstalled my factory over-axle pipe & GTA's today.
What a difference It is now about half as loud than with the mid-mufflers.
It's quieter now than with the factory H,cats & mid-muffler system. Sounds alot like Steve's car from Stangstock. Really wakes up above 3000,nice distinct header tone. Cruise & idle are quiet. The GTA's give it a deeper rumble than with the Pypes straight-thru mufflers, but the 'burble' it used to have when deaccelerating is just about gone. No drone @ any speed or RPM which is nice. I'll get some vids next week.

 

I will get 2 of these made out of aluminum for us. I am going to order my OBX headers tonight. I can't believe they will get here before the 1st of the year now with the holidays. Also, I am just going to leave my car up on the jackstands until we can do the install. Mine should go pretty fast since I will go ahead and pull the battery, exhaust, and starter out this next weekend. Didn't we need to get a longer bolt to go with this spacer behind the flange on the dip stick tube?
Scott