I love the information on this site! What kind of motor mounts are you guys installing?

Get some pics of the install!

 

For my BBKs I kept the stock motor mounts.


I would rate the install about a 6 or 7 but this was my first header install on any car. If I had to do it over again right now, I think it would be A LOT easier cause I have a really good idea of what needs to be done and how much work is involved. I really had NO idea it was going to take as much time as it did.

The best advice I could give to anyone looking to install longtubes is to take your time, and be patient. And for the LOVE OF GOD get a 13mm ratcheting wrench with the swivel head

 

I kept my stock mounts.

Scott,
We will need a longer bolt with the spacer.

 

Good to hear the info about the dipstick spacer, any idea what size bolt / threads it needs to be? That way I can get one ahead of time. First I've seen that mentioned.

 

I installed bullet mounts. nice and stiff. I like the jiggle the car has now too!

 

Alittle confused. So the LT's with off road H and GTA mufflers is quiter then stock set up? When you say cruising and idle are quite is that quiter then stock system or your previous set up. Sorry for the newb questions

 

Ok guys...
Having a hell of a time on the drivers side. Cant get it worked in even with some of the studs removed. Binding up on the steering linkage, even with tweaking the jack under the motor to about 3" up.

How the heck do you remove the steering linkage? I took the top bolt off the 'u-joint', haven't removed the bottom one as it seems it would be of no help. I've read about loosening the 2 10mm bolts inside the firewall, but that didn't seem to assist at all. I can easily move the linkage up about a half inch...but it still needs to go another half inch or so.

Other than that it seems I'll just be having to deal with putting all those studs and nuts back on...wont be easy...from the looks of things. What a royal pain in the butt this has tuned out to be. If I was in a garage instead of on a driveway, at least it would be warmer!

 

So. I've been thinking about this mod a lot...in fact I have the GREEN LIGHT from the wife for the $$ in Jan. I'll probably buy the catted-x Kooks sold by the speed shop I use, so that they're responsible for quality, fit, etc (they'll be installing them as well).

My question is, is the added power only/mostly in the upper RPM range? Or is there a sizeable mid-range torque improvement as well? Does the torque in the lower rpm range (below 2500) suffer? Does anyone have before/after dynocharts?

 

Its been about 6 months since I installed my shortie headers so I'm going by memory here, but I removed the bottom clamp or joint, and removed the bolts inside the firewall. Then the lower part of the shaft, push it in towards the firewall and it will move out of the way.

Someone else that's done this recently, jump in here and correct me...... it's been awhile and my brain is about fried right now from playing video games with my kids for Christmas.

 

Maybe have to loosen or remove bolts for rack & pinion to get linkage off? I've been searching other threads and sites, I know someone posted some info about a quick easy way to remove the linkage, but I can't find it.

Seems all the threads I find make it sound easy. Dont know why mine would be any different than any others. It moves easy that first half inch, but that's it.

 

I actually noticed a great power jump mid range as well as top end! Really puts you back in your seat at 3000+

 

I got a before dyno done, but wont be able to get my after dyno until the first week of january....busy shop....

 

The easiest way to do 05+ is to drop the engine cradle.

 

Hahaha Matt....... wait till you get a blower, and feel the push back into the seat at ~3000rpm.......

 

Ah Tom! Don't remind me...Im not going to have the money until after my Sophmore year!! I cannot wait...

 

BTW while Im in a Longtube header thread....might as well spam my video some more LOL

Its not much...but oh well
http://s19.photobucket.com/albums/b1...haustPart1.flv

 

 

I had meant that it is quieter with the headers & GTA's than with the factory H, cats & Pypes mid-muffler setup.
And my numbers were comparing the stock H,Cats & GTA's to the header/GTA setup.

 

John,
Suprised to hear the trouble you're having with the drivers side,was the pass side I had trouble with. You can move the engine a bit side-to-side once it's unbolted from the mounts.I removed all the lower studs, but left the uppers installed,to hang the gasket & headers onto. Good luck with your install

 

Finally got them on after some confidence coaching from Faber! Finished everything up, having replaced a missing stud with a bolt from Home Depot. Sounded wicked with open headers while still on the jack stands. Got the exhaust all bolted back together and went for a cruise.

Collector on passenger side is at times hitting frame rail, and on the drivers side one tube sometimes rubs the steering column. Looks like I'll have to bend in the pipe a bit on the drivers side and slide the motor back over that way a bit.

Man...I can really feel the power difference! Went out to a rough country road that I could barely spin the tires on before, and this evening happily went all kinds of side ways from a dead stop. Had to try it in a few different places to be sure it wasn't a fluke thing. And I had just gotten to the point that I could do a controlled slide into traffic on a corner. If I tried that now I'd be doing donuts.

After that spin on the country road even my 18 year old said, "that made all that work worth it right there!" So I gave in for the first time....I let him take the stang on a date. Figure he earned it after that header install. He's not into cars, and he had NO mechanical experience prior to me getting the stang. He learned alot this weekend and you could see the pride he had. Makes for one nice Christmas for me! (#$!@% better not wreck my car.)