GT Performance Mods 2005+ Mustang GT Performance and Technical Information

long tube headers $253.47

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Old Dec 23, 2007 | 11:34 PM
  #241  
Faber's Avatar
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right on!!! make sure you have the h-pipe pulled together all the way. that will pinch the headers together and keep them straight. I also have a slight rub on the steering column that I have to take care of. Glad you got it all done!! that will make for a nice relaxing christmas! nothin worse than have a car half done weighing on your mind...

CONGRATS!!!!!
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Old Dec 24, 2007 | 06:44 AM
  #242  
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Faber,
Thanks for the pep talk on the phone. Only took like 5 minutes after talking to you to get that drivers side slid into place. What a relief. Gonna make that last minute Christmas shopping more fun!!
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Old Dec 24, 2007 | 01:57 PM
  #243  
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Originally Posted by CantWin1
Faber,
Thanks for the pep talk on the phone. Only took like 5 minutes after talking to you to get that drivers side slid into place. What a relief. Gonna make that last minute Christmas shopping more fun!!
no sweat man! glad it worked out merry christmas!!!!
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Old Dec 29, 2007 | 05:33 PM
  #244  
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Which ebay seller did you all buy from? "Tuning-Depot" or "Dailod"? Just curious.
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Old Dec 30, 2007 | 10:46 AM
  #245  
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From: New Carlisle, Ohio (20 miles north of Dayton)
Originally Posted by JonCo
Which ebay seller did you all buy from? "Tuning-Depot" or "Dailod"? Just curious.

Mine are coming from Dailod. I believe Aircare84's also came from him. With the holidays it is taking over 2 weeks for delivery. They are shipped from San Francisco.
Scott
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Old Dec 30, 2007 | 03:07 PM
  #246  
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Originally Posted by 70MACH1OWNER
Mine are coming from Dailod. I believe Aircare84's also came from him. With the holidays it is taking over 2 weeks for delivery. They are shipped from San Francisco.
Scott

Alright thanks. I almost ordered last night from him. Still debating how I'm going to go about buying everything I need.

EDIT: Does anyone have any pictures of the system installed from the engine bay? Curious. Also came across some good deals on JBA headers, $500 without the H-Pipe though.
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Old Jan 4, 2008 | 08:48 PM
  #247  
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From: Ellenton, FL
Originally Posted by Faber
Ain't hard at all nate. the tools i used were as follows:

2 ton hydraulic jack and some jack stands
5mm end wrench
8mm end wrench
13mm end wrench
15mm end wrench
17mm end wrench
19mm end wrench
21mm end wrench
3/8 drive ratchet with 3 long extensions, and a swivel
Sockets (shallow and deep) for all sizes of wrenches mentioned above
1/2 inch ratcheting box end craftsman wrench (someone had suggested it and i am including it because i wished i had taken that advice...)
  1. Jack up the car, set the E-brake and put her on jack stands.
  2. Remove the battery and the battery tray
  3. unplug all O2 sensors, but did not remove them from manifolds or h-pipe
  4. unbolt the hpipe from the exhaust manifolds
  5. remove the driveshaft loop type thing
  6. remove the tranny crossmember bolts
  7. loosen the pipe clamps on the H-pipe and wrestle it out from the car.
  8. Remove the starter
  9. remove the motor mount nuts on the K-member.
  10. place a wood block ( I used a 2x6 about 8 inches long) under the oil pan and jack the motor up enough to get the mounts loose.
  11. remove the motor mount brackets
  12. Remove all nuts from exhaust manifolds (some guys like to just loosen the manifold nuts a bit and then remove the studs, but i only remove the studs that I could not get the headers over easily. this way the gaskets will hang on without trouble)
  13. remove the exhaust manifolds.
  14. Place gaskets on heads. I re-used the stock gaskets because they were nice and thin and in great shape.
  15. remove old 02 sensors from old h-pipe
  16. Install headers.
  17. I extended the o2 sensors myself with a soldering iron and some high temp gasoline resistant wire and heat shrink tubing, otherwise install o2 sensor extensions.
  18. install 02 sensors ans zip tie away from heat sources.
  19. install h-pipe
  20. re-install tranny crossmember.
  21. re-install driveshaft loop thingy
  22. get her off the jack and go for a drive! listen for leaks, and make sure you get the car up to operating temp.
  23. let the car cool down and then re-torque everything.
I had to fire it up with open headers once just to hear it htough....and it was RADICAL sounding!!!

This job took me about 8 hours start to finish.
Sorry for double post but... When you lift the engine from the mounts, how much high did you go? I'm a mech newb, when you lift do you have to disconnect the engine from the trans? Or is the lift minor enough where no damage is done? Researching so when I do mine I dont have any doubts
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Old Jan 4, 2008 | 08:52 PM
  #248  
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you should not have to disconnect the tranny
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Old Jan 4, 2008 | 09:23 PM
  #249  
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Don't worry about the tranny...... you can lift the engine about 2-3" without too much worry BUT you only need to lift it an inch at most to do a header install.
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Old Jan 4, 2008 | 09:45 PM
  #250  
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From: It's tough in the jungle !
Originally Posted by tom281
Don't worry about the tranny...... you can lift the engine about 2-3" without too much worry BUT you only need to lift it an inch at most to do a header install.
Yep! about an 1'' or so will give you the clearance, Jacking the motor is a piece of cake! Note: if you have a plenum cover you will want to remove it too!....It will make contact with the fire wall if you raise the motor over about 1.5 inches....
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Old Jan 5, 2008 | 03:09 AM
  #251  
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From: New Carlisle, Ohio (20 miles north of Dayton)
Originally Posted by blkstang06
Yep! about an 1'' or so will give you the clearance, Jacking the motor is a piece of cake! Note: if you have a plenum cover you will want to remove it too!....It will make contact with the fire wall if you raise the motor over about 1.5 inches....

Maybe 1 inch worked on your guys shorty header install okay but when we did Aircare84's car we had to raise the engine the full 2-3 inches to get the longtubes in. We also removed the one bolt at the rear of the transmission mount so as not to put anything in a bind. Still wasn't a big deal. The other trick about doing these longtubes is get the car up as high as you can. Because the way you have to rotate the headers into place they will hit the floor at the collector end and stop you dead. I will probably have a few more tricks after my install today.
Scott
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Old Jan 5, 2008 | 06:14 AM
  #252  
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I don't see any listings for Dalio. Is there a link somewhere. All I see on ebay from a vendor with bid prices starting at $439?????
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Old Jan 5, 2008 | 07:23 AM
  #253  
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Scott, I can guarantee you their headers are NOT like ours. Besides the obvious, (OBX is made in China) there's a huge difference in the quality of materials used, the overall fit and the features. For instance, all AR Headers use merge collectors with scavenger spikes to help increase low and mid range torque. We use 200 cell metallic substrate cats. These cats are the highest flowing, most durable cats in the industry. Our ports are all tig welded and hand ported. Our systems are hand fabricated one set at a time.
By far the largest underlying problem with all Chinese headers is materials and fit. Fit most often is hit or miss and the S/S has inferior nickel properties. This nickel is called pig iron nickel and most often can crack after a period of time. When there's fitment or defective tubing problem, these company rarely do the right thing and replace it.
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Old Jan 5, 2008 | 07:31 AM
  #254  
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I do not see them on the OBX website either, they get busted or something????
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Old Jan 5, 2008 | 07:44 AM
  #255  
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From: Medina county, OH
Originally Posted by firestang70
I don't see any listings for Dalio. Is there a link somewhere. All I see on ebay from a vendor with bid prices starting at $439?????
I don't see it either, but here is a whole page of them:

http://search.ebay.com/obx-headers-m...saobfmtsZinsif

Originally Posted by medieval
Scott, I can guarantee you their headers are NOT like ours. Besides the obvious, (OBX is made in China) there's a huge difference in the quality of materials used, the overall fit and the features. For instance, all AR Headers use merge collectors with scavenger spikes to help increase low and mid range torque. We use 200 cell metallic substrate cats. These cats are the highest flowing, most durable cats in the industry. Our ports are all tig welded and hand ported. Our systems are hand fabricated one set at a time.
By far the largest underlying problem with all Chinese headers is materials and fit. Fit most often is hit or miss and the S/S has inferior nickel properties. This nickel is called pig iron nickel and most often can crack after a period of time. When there's fitment or defective tubing problem, these company rarely do the right thing and replace it.
No offense but if you're a vendor you should sign up as one; otherwise if by "our" and "we" you're referring to just your own set of AR headers, you should read the threads available on these OBX units. It seems like everyone that has them are thrilled with them, including one certain member who has 20+ years in the tooling trade. I'm not saying one is better than the other- but just because these are made in China and aren't fabricated one set at a time ($$) doesn't mean they're not comparable quality, only at a fraction of the cost.
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Old Jan 5, 2008 | 04:36 PM
  #256  
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Originally Posted by medieval
Scott, I can guarantee you their headers are NOT like ours. Besides the obvious, (OBX is made in China) there's a huge difference in the quality of materials used, the overall fit and the features. For instance, all AR Headers use merge collectors with scavenger spikes to help increase low and mid range torque. We use 200 cell metallic substrate cats. These cats are the highest flowing, most durable cats in the industry. Our ports are all tig welded and hand ported. Our systems are hand fabricated one set at a time.
By far the largest underlying problem with all Chinese headers is materials and fit. Fit most often is hit or miss and the S/S has inferior nickel properties. This nickel is called pig iron nickel and most often can crack after a period of time. When there's fitment or defective tubing problem, these company rarely do the right thing and replace it.

I also am not sure "who you are" or "what company" you are representing. Cut thru the smoke and mirrors and tell us who you are. I will also address some of your "digs" on thes OBX headers. What I will offer to our members is facts about my install today good and bad. And I had both. Please bring your facts and identify yourself and "the" company" your represent or go away. I can find unfounded opinions all day long. I am not meaning this in a nasty way either. But your shooting bullets but have not identified the gun yet. Get it? OOhh...and your public profile says you are a IT tech @ Ford. So you obviously don't make longtube headers for a living. And did you also know that Ford wants at least 80% of their tooling for new models built offshore (China) starting in 2008. That is just why 45% of the tool/die and mold shops in this country have been forced out of business since 2001.
Another Scott
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Old Jan 5, 2008 | 09:41 PM
  #257  
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Originally Posted by 70MACH1OWNER
I also am not sure "who you are" or "what company" you are representing. Cut thru the smoke and mirrors and tell us who you are. I will also address some of your "digs" on thes OBX headers. What I will offer to our members is facts about my install today good and bad. And I had both. Please bring your facts and identify yourself and "the" company" your represent or go away. I can find unfounded opinions all day long. I am not meaning this in a nasty way either. But your shooting bullets but have not identified the gun yet. Get it? OOhh...and your public profile says you are a IT tech @ Ford. So you obviously don't make longtube headers for a living. And did you also know that Ford wants at least 80% of their tooling for new models built offshore (China) starting in 2008. That is just why 45% of the tool/die and mold shops in this country have been forced out of business since 2001.
Another Scott
+1. Its easy to hide behind a keyboard.

Anyways, back to the original topic. Cant wait to hear how the install went. If all goes well I should buy my set by the end of this month
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Old Jan 5, 2008 | 11:56 PM
  #258  
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hey I just went to the company and quoted I am trying to get to the bottom of this mess. Keyboard! please.... I am not a nut and bolt guy. I am currently looking to get out of ford the real facts ... I work at CAP and they are really F&&k Up. In the summer when there are storms they shut down the lines because the water comes into the building... When I walk down the steps you can see at least ounce a week **** Roaches you can put in the palm of your hand. The rats are as big as small cats. Should I go on????? there are no exaust vents in the bath rooms should I go on??? Yes When I though 8 months ago I would be working for a great co. Well Should I go ON??? Do u want to hear about the IT part of the company? It will blow your mind on just how far back the software is. I am not looking at my spelling so I am ranting. BUT I do love my Roush.

YOU would not believe how the safest car in america is built. So take that wrench and put it on my HEaders and let me know when your done.... LOL

OH and when it gets below 10 the plant dont run because ITS so F%%ing cold inside.. the union wont alow it


HELLO

I understand what u are saying so PM me and lets chat. I am not doing this work I dont want to take it somewere and have them say you need this and u need that. See were I am comong from?

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Old Jan 6, 2008 | 06:39 AM
  #259  
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Well I don't get it how that pertains to headers but good luck with finding a new job. I think....
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Old Jan 6, 2008 | 07:09 AM
  #260  
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I was just responding to the last few posts before mine that were directed towards me.
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