Help! Steering shaft issue
#22
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#24
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Hi all, do bump this thread, cause I do got the exact same problem with my JBA LTs.
Did you fix this problem? And In that case what did you do?
It was not me who did mount the LTs, it was the prev owner.
Can it be so that he didn't center the engine after this? And this is why I have this issue?
I am using the stock mounts. If this can be fixed whitout replace them It would be great.
Or is the engine always? Centered with the stock mounts?![Smile](https://themustangsource.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
Thanks for any help
Daniel, Sweden
Did you fix this problem? And In that case what did you do?
It was not me who did mount the LTs, it was the prev owner.
Can it be so that he didn't center the engine after this? And this is why I have this issue?
I am using the stock mounts. If this can be fixed whitout replace them It would be great.
Or is the engine always? Centered with the stock mounts?
![Smile](https://themustangsource.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
Thanks for any help
Daniel, Sweden
#25
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i would say make the dent but like 70mach said not with a ballpean or normal hammer, get a hard rubber hammer so it makes more of a soft dent then a hard ding into the header. If not then the extra 1/4" would help.
#26
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#27
I've always "dented" my stuff the following way with good results.
1) You will have to drop the steering shaft for this.
2) Choose the correct size socket (same or little bigger then the steer shaft O.D.) deep wells usually work best. This is what u will use to form a depression in the header. You will mount this on the extension of your choice.
The correct socket angle on the header needs to be determined BEFORE any actual hammering.
Steering shaft needs to ride in this pocket.
Also need to see if this can be done from above or below the car. Depending where you can get the most accurate swing with the hammer. Mild steel will be easier then stainless.
3)Once all your calculations are done start slowly. U can always go deeper. U are only looking to slightly radius the head pipe in a smooth manner with as little as needed.
Your results may vari. Hope this helps.
P.S. not sure how much "denting" ceramic coating can take before flaking!
1) You will have to drop the steering shaft for this.
2) Choose the correct size socket (same or little bigger then the steer shaft O.D.) deep wells usually work best. This is what u will use to form a depression in the header. You will mount this on the extension of your choice.
The correct socket angle on the header needs to be determined BEFORE any actual hammering.
Steering shaft needs to ride in this pocket.
Also need to see if this can be done from above or below the car. Depending where you can get the most accurate swing with the hammer. Mild steel will be easier then stainless.
3)Once all your calculations are done start slowly. U can always go deeper. U are only looking to slightly radius the head pipe in a smooth manner with as little as needed.
Your results may vari. Hope this helps.
P.S. not sure how much "denting" ceramic coating can take before flaking!
#28
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Hi all, do bump this thread, cause I do got the exact same problem with my JBA LTs.
Did you fix this problem? And In that case what did you do?
It was not me who did mount the LTs, it was the prev owner.
Can it be so that he didn't center the engine after this? And this is why I have this issue?
I am using the stock mounts. If this can be fixed whitout replace them It would be great.
Or is the engine always? Centered with the stock mounts?![Smile](https://themustangsource.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
Thanks for any help
Daniel, Sweden
Did you fix this problem? And In that case what did you do?
It was not me who did mount the LTs, it was the prev owner.
Can it be so that he didn't center the engine after this? And this is why I have this issue?
I am using the stock mounts. If this can be fixed whitout replace them It would be great.
Or is the engine always? Centered with the stock mounts?
![Smile](https://themustangsource.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
Thanks for any help
Daniel, Sweden
I had a slight rub issue after my LT install,only on hard right corners.
Replaced the stock mounts with the prothenes & it eliminated my rub on any cornering.
You can try shifting the engine over towards the pass. side first.
Hard to say if your engine is currently centered on the stock mounts now, there is some room to adjust.
#29
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Remove the stock hydro-mounts & install prothene motor mounts.
I had a slight rub issue after my LT install,only on hard right corners.
Replaced the stock mounts with the prothenes & it eliminated my rub on any cornering.
You can try shifting the engine over towards the pass. side first.
Hard to say if your engine is currently centered on the stock mounts now, there is some room to adjust.
I had a slight rub issue after my LT install,only on hard right corners.
Replaced the stock mounts with the prothenes & it eliminated my rub on any cornering.
You can try shifting the engine over towards the pass. side first.
Hard to say if your engine is currently centered on the stock mounts now, there is some room to adjust.
#30
After rereading my post and looking under mine, denting the head pipe from underneath looks easy enough.
Just to clarify you are going to use the side if the socket against the header to make your depression,
following the same angle as the steer shaft. I use the extension to hold the socket in place & not smash my fingers.
PM me if U need more details. Good Luck
Just to clarify you are going to use the side if the socket against the header to make your depression,
following the same angle as the steer shaft. I use the extension to hold the socket in place & not smash my fingers.
PM me if U need more details. Good Luck
#31
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Thanks for the fast replys.
I will try to "center" the engine first, and if that is not possible then new mounts will be mounted.
I do got cheramic coated so im not so happy banging on them. :/
Thanks anyway.
Daniel
I will try to "center" the engine first, and if that is not possible then new mounts will be mounted.
I do got cheramic coated so im not so happy banging on them. :/
Thanks anyway.
Daniel
#32
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The mount install took about 2-3 hrs. But I did not have access to a lift.
Getting the stock mounts out was the biggest headache with the upper stud & the fact they sit down into the frame rails. I had to jack up the motor again. Installing the prothenes after was a piece of cake.
#33
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Yes & yes.
The mount install took about 2-3 hrs. But I did not have access to a lift.
Getting the stock mounts out was the biggest headache with the upper stud & the fact they sit down into the frame rails. I had to jack up the motor again. Installing the prothenes after was a piece of cake.
The mount install took about 2-3 hrs. But I did not have access to a lift.
Getting the stock mounts out was the biggest headache with the upper stud & the fact they sit down into the frame rails. I had to jack up the motor again. Installing the prothenes after was a piece of cake.
#34
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I know Tacobill has a write-up on how to install the mounts without removing the engine, and from the pics i do not see a real problem with installing them with the LTs still on the engine. I say it is worth a try.
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