The last couple of mods I've done sure have.

 

Hey Tom, the rattle I though I had resolved isn't Is there a trick you could let me in on for moving the engine by myself? I hought I got it moved but it's still off, and that's what's causing the LT rattle under the car.

 

BTW, has anyone ever installed Prothanes AFTER the longtubes are already on the car?

 

Hi all, do bump this thread, cause I do got the exact same problem with my JBA LTs.

Did you fix this problem? And In that case what did you do?

It was not me who did mount the LTs, it was the prev owner.
Can it be so that he didn't center the engine after this? And this is why I have this issue?

I am using the stock mounts. If this can be fixed whitout replace them It would be great.
Or is the engine always? Centered with the stock mounts?

Thanks for any help
Daniel, Sweden

 

i would say make the dent but like 70mach said not with a ballpean or normal hammer, get a hard rubber hammer so it makes more of a soft dent then a hard ding into the header. If not then the extra 1/4" would help.

 

The problem is that they're already on the car haha

 

I've always "dented" my stuff the following way with good results.
1) You will have to drop the steering shaft for this.

2) Choose the correct size socket (same or little bigger then the steer shaft O.D.) deep wells usually work best. This is what u will use to form a depression in the header. You will mount this on the extension of your choice.
The correct socket angle on the header needs to be determined BEFORE any actual hammering.
Steering shaft needs to ride in this pocket.
Also need to see if this can be done from above or below the car. Depending where you can get the most accurate swing with the hammer. Mild steel will be easier then stainless.

3)Once all your calculations are done start slowly. U can always go deeper. U are only looking to slightly radius the head pipe in a smooth manner with as little as needed.

Your results may vari. Hope this helps.
P.S. not sure how much "denting" ceramic coating can take before flaking!

 

Remove the stock hydro-mounts & install prothene motor mounts.
I had a slight rub issue after my LT install,only on hard right corners.
Replaced the stock mounts with the prothenes & it eliminated my rub on any cornering.
You can try shifting the engine over towards the pass. side first.
Hard to say if your engine is currently centered on the stock mounts now, there is some room to adjust.

 

Did you do the Prothane install yourself? Is it tough with the LT's already in?

 

After rereading my post and looking under mine, denting the head pipe from underneath looks easy enough.

Just to clarify you are going to use the side if the socket against the header to make your depression,
following the same angle as the steer shaft. I use the extension to hold the socket in place & not smash my fingers.

PM me if U need more details. Good Luck

 

Thanks for the fast replys.
I will try to "center" the engine first, and if that is not possible then new mounts will be mounted.

I do got cheramic coated so im not so happy banging on them. :/

Thanks anyway.
Daniel

 

Yes & yes.
The mount install took about 2-3 hrs. But I did not have access to a lift.
Getting the stock mounts out was the biggest headache with the upper stud & the fact they sit down into the frame rails. I had to jack up the motor again. Installing the prothenes after was a piece of cake.

 

Larry and I did are installs around the same time, same issue header rub! I got Steeda shorty's on .. took care of the rub .. good low cost mod...

 

I know Tacobill has a write-up on how to install the mounts without removing the engine, and from the pics i do not see a real problem with installing them with the LTs still on the engine. I say it is worth a try.