Yes, so does the Shelby GT and the Foose. I heard them on the Shelby GT in Birmingham so I kinda knew what was coming.


Yeah, I want to see the coin holder, but it looks really nice.

 

I looked at it... I'm on the fence on the cup holder thing. It looks good, but I'm a little worn on having logos all over the place (GT especially). I mean geez, it's too many places reminding me what I drive.

 

Good thing for me is that I don't have or want the cup holder bezel so no need to debate if I want the cupholder/change holder.

 

Hmmm...Possible new mod idea thanks to Tom281. Looks like these would flow alot better than the stock over axle pipe which has all kinds of kinks and bends. He got them from Borla. I might consider these if the price is right.

 

I'm on that thread too. Don't quote me, but I think Borla's mid-pipes are part of the whole 'Cat-Back' kit, mufflers (if you cal them that ) included.

 

Hmmm... I wonder if it would be cheaper to have a muffler shop custom make them for you.

 

I'm not entirely sold on the benefits of having a nicely bent mandrel tubing versus the factory's rough looking one. I know the diameter varies more on the stock pipes, but will it really make a noticable difference in performance?

I will say this.. the Borla tubing sure looks purdy!

 

Your probably right. If there is any difference in performance it would be hard to tell unless dynoed before and after.

+1 on it looking nice.

 

While I agree that it looks nice, I doubt you would see or feel any difference with that portion of the pipe. Maybe a little less exhaust backpressure, but that about it IMO.

 

Shelby ADM...

 

Got back from the track a few hours ago. There was any bracket racing and I didn't get better than an 8.8 this time around. My reaction times were horrible today. Oh well hopefully I do better next Friday since there will be cash at stake in the bracket racing event. What I didn notice today was that the new bigger,heavier rims didn't seem to have any negative affects on my ET. If it wasn't for my slow reaction times I could have easily matched or beaten my best time.

Sorry no pics or vids as the wife backed out again. Although she promises she'll go next week.

 

Shelby must be some good stuff.

 

Huh? They're that much heavier?

 

My aftermarket 18s weren't that much heavier than the factory 17s. A little more metal, a little less rubber. Now, Mike's 20s were quite a bit heavier.

For the hell of it, I can weigh one of the factory 17s if somebody weighs one of the factory 18 bullitts for a comparison.

 

Tom- Where did you end up mounting the Solo S2?

 

Sorry I've been off so long... I've had time to browse, but no time to reply.

I mounted it to the left of the rear view mirror as high as it would go with the suction cups. I got the hard wire kit for cheap and I'm going to try to get 12V from where the top buttons are located.

I may try something different later, but it seems to work really well where I have it now.

 

Mike (KdF), do you have any pictures of your Steeda CAI? We saw one picture that looked like the heat shield was made out of aluminum foil, so I wanted to see some installed pics.

Aluminum foil picture: http://store.cal-mustang.com/cm_able...D=9171&DS_ID=4

I really like the way the shaker goes into the stock air box, but I may be losing points at car shows since everybody has this nice CAI and I have this black blah box.

I like the Steeda CAI because you can retain the stock air tube to the throttle body. Doug just sent me an email and said he would retune all of my tunes if I bought a CAI. I don't care about the HP, but I don't think the car will run correctly without getting them retuned.

 

I'm sure it's only 10-15 lbs difference if that, just wasn't sure how and if it would affect my ET's.

Tom-If and when you do buy this new CAI are you going to do what Bill and I did as far re-routing your shaker ducting? Something tells me if you do go through with this your going to end up changing out the inlet tube at some point.

 

Post up a pic later. If you end up tapping into the map lights, take some pics of it opened up and make a note which wire is the hot and/or keyed 12V.

 

I'll have to do something like that - my only other option is removing the shaker ducting all together.
As far as the elbow from the CAI to the TB... no, I think I'll keep the stock tube. If I wanted more HP, I would change it. But I think it looks good when it's glossy black and the Steeda conical air filter should look better than the stock air box.

OK, I'll take a pic. I just took it out because I drove the '89 to work today. I'll be looking for a keyed 12V source around the map lights.