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Old Oct 30, 2007 | 08:43 AM
  #21  
Eleanor Dreaming's Avatar
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The puller kit for our balancer is actually for a Mopar I think. I put a rubber band around the jaws helped to keep it on till I got pressure on the balancer. A local Mustang mechanic (he worked for Kenny Brown) suggested putting a little engine oil or anti-seize on the bolt when you install the balancer. I galded the threads in the crank, he was able to chase and clean the threads out and with a slightly longer bolt fix it.
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Old Oct 30, 2007 | 09:12 AM
  #22  
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From: Medina county, OH
Originally Posted by Glenn
Morning Every one

Good morning Glenn.
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Old Oct 30, 2007 | 09:33 AM
  #23  
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From: It's tough in the jungle !
Originally Posted by Glenn
Morning Every one
Glenn, How did those LCA reco brackets you fabricated turn out! got any pics of the final product?
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Old Oct 30, 2007 | 10:49 AM
  #24  
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Joined: December 14, 2004
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From: Goshen, IN
Hey hey...good Idea on this Tom...its nice to be able to discuss with the "locals"
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Old Oct 30, 2007 | 11:08 AM
  #25  
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From: Medina county, OH
Originally Posted by codeman94
Hey hey...good Idea on this Tom...
Yep....all these smarts in one handsome package- boy is my wife lucky or what.


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Old Oct 30, 2007 | 03:54 PM
  #26  
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From: It's tough in the jungle !
Hey! 70MACH1OWNER, You better start eating your Wheaties, Put my UD pulleys on this afternoon, and that crank bolt came right out!! all I used was my 18'' torque wrench, you where talking about cheater bars and such, you need to Cowboy-up!!!.... I didn't use a 14mm wrench on the fly wheel bolt just clamp Vise Grips on it, they held fine..Also didn't need my pullers to get the crank pulley off! they where to big!! (I have that problem alot!).... I used a small pry bar and it walked off with very little effort!!..........Next are the delete plates, hurry up and do yours, so I can learn from your mistakes.....
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Old Oct 30, 2007 | 04:08 PM
  #27  
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From: Medina county, OH
Originally Posted by blkstang06
Hey! 70MACH1OWNER, You better start eating your Wheaties, Put my UD pulleys on this afternoon, and that crank bolt came right out!! all I used was my 18'' torque wrench, you where talking about cheater bars and such, you need to Cowboy-up!!!.... I didn't use a 14mm wrench on the fly wheel bolt just clamp Vise Grips on it, they held fine..Also didn't need my pullers to get the crank pulley off! they where to big!! (I have that problem alot!).... I used a small pry bar and it walked off with very little effort!!..........Next are the delete plates, hurry up and do yours, so I can learn from your mistakes.....

Congrats on the pulley install, meathead! And I posted a thread earlier this year about the delete plate install, it's easy, so easy. Easiest mod I've done so far besides loading a tune and bolting on the JLT cai (you know, back before I got blown ).
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Old Oct 30, 2007 | 04:23 PM
  #28  
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From: New Carlisle, Ohio (20 miles north of Dayton)
Originally Posted by aircare84
Scott,
Hope you & Karen have a nice time.Enjoy
So was the opinion on the delete plates that you won't loose any low-end with them? Let me know if you do in fact recieve delete plates, we'll work something out with Brent.
Larry

Hey Larry,
Well I called Brenspeed today to see if they really shipped me another set and they did not. It was a computer generated email with no parts being shipped. Sorry! As far as Brent's opinion of the delete plates goes he seemed less harsh on them as far as them costing anything on the low end. He did say the real horsepower is up high. He also said he thought they felt better on the auto trans than the manual which made no sense at all to me. I will get them on over the Thanksgiving weekend and will post my honest "butt - o - meter" results. Steeda says they are worth 10 X 10. Brent says 5-8 is more realistic. I will be happy when I can be N/A and put down 300/300 at the wheels with the auto trans. My gut tells me it will take the cams to get there.
Scott
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Old Oct 30, 2007 | 04:25 PM
  #29  
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From: Kansas City, MO
Good afternoon folks, just cleaned mine up. No need to get dirty and greasy around here. Maybe I will post a photo later.
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Old Oct 30, 2007 | 04:33 PM
  #30  
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From: New Carlisle, Ohio (20 miles north of Dayton)
Originally Posted by blkstang06
Hey! 70MACH1OWNER, You better start eating your Wheaties, Put my UD pulleys on this afternoon, and that crank bolt came right out!! all I used was my 18'' torque wrench, you where talking about cheater bars and such, you need to Cowboy-up!!!.... I didn't use a 14mm wrench on the fly wheel bolt just clamp Vise Grips on it, they held fine..Also didn't need my pullers to get the crank pulley off! they where to big!! (I have that problem alot!).... I used a small pry bar and it walked off with very little effort!!..........Next are the delete plates, hurry up and do yours, so I can learn from your mistakes.....

You do man!! You would not have got my "nut" loose with any 18" torque wrench. "Vise Grips"? How abusive!!!!. Shame on you! The wrench of choice for the ......................................! Glad you got them on. I put a tape on my front and rear wheelwells last nite and was surprised to see that the rear was only 5/8 inch higher than the front. So I guess you are right that anything over 3/4 drop on the rear would make it look low in the butt end. I will look for some cheap Roush rear springs. Are you going to buy a forth set anytime soon??
Scott
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Old Oct 30, 2007 | 04:36 PM
  #31  
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From: Medina county, OH
Originally Posted by 70MACH1OWNER
You do man!! You would not have got my "nut" loose with any 18" torque wrench. "Vise Grips"? How abusive!!!!. Shame on you! The wrench of choice for the ......................................! Glad you got them on.
I put a tape on my front and rear wheelwells last nite and was surprised to see that the rear was only 5/8 inch higher than the front. So I guess you are right that anything over 3/4 drop on the rear would make it look low in the butt end. I will look for some cheap Roush rear springs. Are you going to buy a forth set anytime soon??
Scott
Cheap Roush rear springs = $125 unless you find used. You could always cut your stockers..... Just kidding, I'm not a fan of that although I know people that have done so.
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Old Oct 30, 2007 | 04:53 PM
  #32  
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From: New Carlisle, Ohio (20 miles north of Dayton)
Originally Posted by tom281
Cheap Roush rear springs = $125 unless you find used. You could always cut your stockers..... Just kidding, I'm not a fan of that although I know people that have done so.
I agree. I will not cut the stockers. I don't see how they sit in the springs seats after you do that.
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Old Oct 30, 2007 | 05:08 PM
  #33  
70MACH1OWNER's Avatar
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From: New Carlisle, Ohio (20 miles north of Dayton)
Originally Posted by Eleanor Dreaming
The puller kit for our balancer is actually for a Mopar I think. I put a rubber band around the jaws helped to keep it on till I got pressure on the balancer. A local Mustang mechanic (he worked for Kenny Brown) suggested putting a little engine oil or anti-seize on the bolt when you install the balancer. I galded the threads in the crank, he was able to chase and clean the threads out and with a slightly longer bolt fix it.

Whoa Ben...I would have been sweating bullets on that gualded crank thread issue. I believe the Steeda instructions tell you to apply some oil to that bolt. Glad it all worked out for you!!!
Scott
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Old Oct 30, 2007 | 05:09 PM
  #34  
70MACH1OWNER's Avatar
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From: New Carlisle, Ohio (20 miles north of Dayton)
Originally Posted by ShowGT
Good afternoon folks, just cleaned mine up. No need to get dirty and greasy around here. Maybe I will post a photo later.


We are waiting Brandon..
Scott
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Old Oct 30, 2007 | 05:14 PM
  #35  
ShowGT's Avatar
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From: Kansas City, MO
Ok Scott, I will post some up in a bit here. The steaks are about done, so they have priority at this time.
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Old Oct 30, 2007 | 05:20 PM
  #36  
aircare84's Avatar
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Joined: October 1, 2006
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From: Central OH
Originally Posted by 70MACH1OWNER
Hey Larry,
Well I called Brenspeed today to see if they really shipped me another set and they did not. It was a computer generated email with no parts being shipped. Sorry! As far as Brent's opinion of the delete plates goes he seemed less harsh on them as far as them costing anything on the low end. He did say the real horsepower is up high. He also said he thought they felt better on the auto trans than the manual which made no sense at all to me. I will get them on over the Thanksgiving weekend and will post my honest "butt - o - meter" results. Steeda says they are worth 10 X 10. Brent says 5-8 is more realistic. I will be happy when I can be N/A and put down 300/300 at the wheels with the auto trans. My gut tells me it will take the cams to get there.
Scott
Scott,
I'll be interested in seeing what you have to say after you get yours on. I'll probably go the O/R H first on mine. I'm liking Steve's sound clip with the O/R H & GTA's.
Guess we'll never be completly satisfied, eh?
Larry
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Old Oct 30, 2007 | 05:23 PM
  #37  
blkstang06's Avatar
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From: It's tough in the jungle !
Originally Posted by 70MACH1OWNER
You do man!! You would not have got my "nut" loose with any 18" torque wrench. "Vise Grips"? How abusive!!!!. Shame on you! The wrench of choice for the ......................................! Glad you got them on. I put a tape on my front and rear wheelwells last nite and was surprised to see that the rear was only 5/8 inch higher than the front. So I guess you are right that anything over 3/4 drop on the rear would make it look low in the butt end. I will look for some cheap Roush rear springs. Are you going to buy a forth set anytime soon??
Scott
Scott, I've read some of the trouble thats been had with the crank bolt, I got lucky this time. As far as the Vise grips go they where applied with surgical precision.... Quit being cheap, just get a set of lowering springs and of set Tokico HP's and don't look back! You and TopGun crack me up! ...Put a ton of money in your cars on mods and then cheap out on what in truth is the most important aspect of your Stang the suspension....... ....
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Old Oct 30, 2007 | 05:29 PM
  #38  
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From: Medina county, OH
Originally Posted by blkstang06
Scott, I've read some of the trouble thats been had with the crank bolt, I got lucky this time. As far as the Vise grips go they where applied with surgical precision.... Quit being cheap, just get a set of lowering springs and of set Tokico HP's and don't look back! You and TopGun crack me up! ...Put a ton of money in your cars on mods and then cheap out on what in truth is the most important aspect of your Stang the suspension....... ....
Cheap out? Steeda LCAs, Steeda Ajd. Panhard, and Steeda Springs? Sure I haven't gone with struts and shocks but there are no advantages for me to do so with my driving style (you know, flat Indiana ground with wide open back country roads). I did just enough suspension mods to eliminate my wheel hop, and I'm happy LOL!
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Old Oct 30, 2007 | 05:33 PM
  #39  
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Joined: April 25, 2007
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From: Kansas City, MO
Here you go Scott:

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Old Oct 30, 2007 | 05:53 PM
  #40  
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From: New Carlisle, Ohio (20 miles north of Dayton)
Originally Posted by ShowGT
Here you go Scott:


Pretty!!! I am liking that hood and spoiler!! You have really done a nice job on your car!!! Have you made the hood functional??
Scott
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