View Poll Results: Do you prefer us lobbing Potatoes or Grenades to take care of spammers?
Lob potatoes to just stun them
2
16.67%
Lob grenades and remove them from the TMS pool permanently
10
83.33%
Voters: 12. You may not vote on this poll
Mustangs Coast to Coast
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Thread Starter
I painted (epoxy) my new garage/shop floor today. I had to work fast to get 1000 sq.ft. down before it set up to much. I got a good first coat on today just before sunset. I spent most of the day still waiting for the floor to dry from pressure washing it yesterday. I put a finish coat on it tomorrow hopefully and in 21 days I will be able to put cars on it.
I went with a Sherwin-Williams product called Tile-Clad. It's an industrial marine epoxy that can be used for clean rooms and even nuclear plants. I should have about a 8 mil thick floor when done. It's a 57% solid epoxy spanned it's not water based either so it's not fun to work with, but I'm hoping for a stronger and more professional result.
The quickrete and armor all stuff I used before was definitely a failure after a few months.
I went with a Sherwin-Williams product called Tile-Clad. It's an industrial marine epoxy that can be used for clean rooms and even nuclear plants. I should have about a 8 mil thick floor when done. It's a 57% solid epoxy spanned it's not water based either so it's not fun to work with, but I'm hoping for a stronger and more professional result.
The quickrete and armor all stuff I used before was definitely a failure after a few months.
Swamp Donkey Man Cans
Join Date: August 20, 2007
Location: Massachusetts
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I painted (epoxy) my new garage/shop floor today. I had to work fast to get 1000 sq.ft. down before it set up to much. I got a good first coat on today just before sunset. I spent most of the day still waiting for the floor to dry from pressure washing it yesterday. I put a finish coat on it tomorrow hopefully and in 21 days I will be able to put cars on it.
I went with a Sherwin-Williams product called Tile-Clad. It's an industrial marine epoxy that can be used for clean rooms and even nuclear plants. I should have about a 8 mil thick floor when done. It's a 57% solid epoxy spanned it's not water based either so it's not fun to work with, but I'm hoping for a stronger and more professional result.
The quickrete and armor all stuff I used before was definitely a failure after a few months.
I went with a Sherwin-Williams product called Tile-Clad. It's an industrial marine epoxy that can be used for clean rooms and even nuclear plants. I should have about a 8 mil thick floor when done. It's a 57% solid epoxy spanned it's not water based either so it's not fun to work with, but I'm hoping for a stronger and more professional result.
The quickrete and armor all stuff I used before was definitely a failure after a few months.
It really does make for a great looking easy to keep clean garage. How long has the floor been poured? I would have figured you would have to wait a year or so before you could seal it.
One thing I saw that I liked was a MB dealer near here has a heated tile floor in their shop. Even their tech's get fancy working conditions.
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Thread Starter
The specs say 28 days on fresh concrete. Mine is about 5 months old.
I thought I had a really smooth floor, but I don't. It's amazing how many impurities show on the floor when you begin rolling paint on it.
I went with gloss finish and no flakes. It'll be slick as hell but it ought to look darn good.
Best part is I went with Ford Blue as my color.
I thought I had a really smooth floor, but I don't. It's amazing how many impurities show on the floor when you begin rolling paint on it.
I went with gloss finish and no flakes. It'll be slick as hell but it ought to look darn good.
Best part is I went with Ford Blue as my color.
Swamp Donkey Man Cans
Join Date: August 20, 2007
Location: Massachusetts
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The specs say 28 days on fresh concrete. Mine is about 5 months old.
I thought I had a really smooth floor, but I don't. It's amazing how many impurities show on the floor when you begin rolling paint on it.
I went with gloss finish and no flakes. It'll be slick as hell but it ought to look darn good.
Best part is I went with Ford Blue as my color.
I thought I had a really smooth floor, but I don't. It's amazing how many impurities show on the floor when you begin rolling paint on it.
I went with gloss finish and no flakes. It'll be slick as hell but it ought to look darn good.
Best part is I went with Ford Blue as my color.
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Thread Starter
I wish now I had poured the floor a little thicker where the lift is going, but they say 4" thick is ok as long as it's 3000psi concrete or better. With a little luck there will be a concrete beam in that spot, hopefully I don't hit any rebar, because that would suck!
Swamp Donkey Man Cans
Join Date: August 20, 2007
Location: Massachusetts
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I think ours was something like 6 inches thick. My father kinda goes overkill with stuff, but he didn't want any cracks in the floor from our RV. Our driveway was also "double" thick and I bet close to 20' wide, going back up to that garage. What I wouldn't do to have that garage here at this house.
Like Father...
I ♥ Sausage
I ♥ Sausage
The specs say 28 days on fresh concrete. Mine is about 5 months old.
I thought I had a really smooth floor, but I don't. It's amazing how many impurities show on the floor when you begin rolling paint on it.
I went with gloss finish and no flakes. It'll be slick as hell but it ought to look darn good.
Best part is I went with Ford Blue as my color.
I thought I had a really smooth floor, but I don't. It's amazing how many impurities show on the floor when you begin rolling paint on it.
I went with gloss finish and no flakes. It'll be slick as hell but it ought to look darn good.
Best part is I went with Ford Blue as my color.
Post *****
Thread Starter
I still wash outside and the floor should never be wet other than rain off of a car. I like having a really, really clean garage floor. I mop frequently. I mop the garage more than the kitchen.
NTTAWWT
I painted (epoxy) my new garage/shop floor today. I had to work fast to get 1000 sq.ft. down before it set up to much. I got a good first coat on today just before sunset. I spent most of the day still waiting for the floor to dry from pressure washing it yesterday. I put a finish coat on it tomorrow hopefully and in 21 days I will be able to put cars on it.
I went with a Sherwin-Williams product called Tile-Clad. It's an industrial marine epoxy that can be used for clean rooms and even nuclear plants. I should have about a 8 mil thick floor when done. It's a 57% solid epoxy spanned it's not water based either so it's not fun to work with, but I'm hoping for a stronger and more professional result.
The quickrete and armor all stuff I used before was definitely a failure after a few months.
I went with a Sherwin-Williams product called Tile-Clad. It's an industrial marine epoxy that can be used for clean rooms and even nuclear plants. I should have about a 8 mil thick floor when done. It's a 57% solid epoxy spanned it's not water based either so it's not fun to work with, but I'm hoping for a stronger and more professional result.
The quickrete and armor all stuff I used before was definitely a failure after a few months.
You spent all day waiting on water to dry!
That's gonna be step one when I finally get a place, can't stand stained cement. And it's a heck of a lot easier to tell where possible leaks are coming from when the floor's sealed.
nothing that bugs me more than a dirty shop! Especially dirty tools, I should not have to wear gloves to keep from getting grimy hands working with a flippin ratchet!
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Thread Starter
Will its not like I sat there and watched it dry.
I cleaned all the windows in the shop and garage while I waited. With all the paint overspray and brick mortar on them it takes a razor blade and patience ro get them invisible.
NTTAWWT
oddly enough, I was talking with a friend of mine about that exact topic, getting windows on fresh construction projects clean
(his parents own a major cleaning company, not like we were talking about it for fun, lol)
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Thread Starter
My pops ordered a 2011 F150 Ecoboost Friday.
He was tired of the Explorer Sporttrac getting 11 mpg. So he's getting a Supercrew Platinum in silver. 2WD.
Oddly enough i noticed that the Ecoboost F150s have an offset front license plate to leave room for airflow into the heat exchanger.
He was tired of the Explorer Sporttrac getting 11 mpg. So he's getting a Supercrew Platinum in silver. 2WD.
Oddly enough i noticed that the Ecoboost F150s have an offset front license plate to leave room for airflow into the heat exchanger.
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Join Date: December 14, 2007
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BoogieNights Studios:
Official Fluffer
Official Fluffer
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No I am gonna store it cuz I still have a long road ahead on the car. I might even have to modify the hood with a taller cowl to "hide" all my goodies under it.
That was a good pass!!
I cant wait till I am out doing that in mine.
Just got back from the track a few hours ago..
CLICK ME!!!
@109 mph. riding the limiter for about 200'
CLICK ME!!!
@109 mph. riding the limiter for about 200'
I cant wait till I am out doing that in mine.
The Legacy TMS Lady
Check out this thread. You'll see my install of the show n go plate holder.
https://themustangsource.com/f691/ne...holder-464294/
https://themustangsource.com/f691/ne...holder-464294/
Swamp Donkey Man Cans
Join Date: August 20, 2007
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Hey Gary, what did you use for the inside window wipers so they wouldn't scrach the tint? I have a roll of mole skin I was going to use like TacoBill did, but I was thinking of just ordering 08+ window wipers that are felt.