Hmmm I thought the frpp bump stops were supposed to be shorter??? What's the point in getting them then? I thought they were shorter to gain some bump travel back after lowering?

 

Where did you guys place the jack stands in the rear?

Edit: Nevermind I found a spot.

 

Pinch weld at the rear before the lca attachment, chock front wheels.

 

I'm having a hell of a time getting the panhard bolt broke loose on the passenger side, there's just no leverage with it on jack stands and a breaker bar. Any advice, other than air tools?

Edit: Nevermind....put my back litterly agains my garage wall and pushed with my foot. I guess having big feet is finally paying off lol. Just a tip though....it may be wise to break that bolt loose while the shock is out. That would give you leverage without having to be under the car.

 

Going good I hope. Remember the rear lower bolt should be torqued while on ramps or the axel at ride hight.

 

Good so far. Did the rear shocks, springs, and phb by myself. Took about 3 hours including a trip to the hardware store. Taking a break now until my buddy gets here and then tighten up the phb and get the front done.

 

The PHB was a ***** to get into the driver side bracket for me. We're you able to torque down the shock top nut? I used a crowd foot adapter on torque wrench and calculated new torque due to adapter. I however could not get the proper torque without the bushing bulging out to much. So I just tightens to the point that the bushing bulged to the edge of the washer.

 

PHB???

 

Panhard bar

 

Are those Steeda sports you put in? Is it normal for the new sport springs to have allot of play when supporting car by the frame? With everything in with the suspension hanging down the rear spring has lots of play. It won't come out because of the top cone shaped isolated, just wondering?

 

John, how's the install coming along?!

I wasn't able to torque the top nuts of any of the 4 shocks/struts. The rears only need 30 something pounds so not really necessary I you get it's pretty tight. I mangled the top studs doing it too.

Also I was STUCK DEAD with the front assemblies off the car. Couldn't get the top nut off cause its sunk into the strut mount. My friend came by with a battery impact gun and that zapped it off. Without it I was screwed.

Same thing putting the top nut on. Impressed down on the mount and he zapped it on. Then he grabbed the strut rod and zapped it down tight again. That was the best I got them on. That have been on ok so far

I have yet to get an alignment still but the car drives straight as an arrow. Can the "toe in" still be off with it driving so good? I plan on getting one, just been busy.

 

Phb was a *****! Especially getting the old one out. I bought it used and was really hard to adjust and I still can't budge the center adjustment nut. It'll have to wait for another day. I couldn't torque the rear top shock nuts either. Just got them as tight as possible and left it.

I did frpp k springs. Mine were pretty loose too in the rear while it was hanging. Roush springs popped right out and these went in just as easy.

If you didn't create this thread I'd probably still be down in my garage working on it. Thanks again man! Everyone's tips really helped!

I bought an electric impact gun because my compressor sucks. It really did come in handy. Luckily I had all new parts for the front assemblies so no need to take the stockers apart.

So far I'm not 100% thrilled with the ride. I went into this knowing the k springs were stiff, I was hoping that the koni's would counteract it and make a good balance. But the ride feels choppy and stiff, handles like a champ, but annoying. The stock dampers on the roush springs were better even though I thought the struts and shocks were starting to go bad. I'll give it a while though to settle.

The drop doesn't appear much lower, but I'm sure in a couple more days it'll settle in. I left the roush rear bump stops for now because they look identical to the frpp. I also didn't use the camber bolts yet. Everything appears straight and drives straight, but I'll still get an alignment. No pics yet, I'll get some in the daylight tomorrow.

Overall it wasn't hard to do and a good learning experience at that.

One last thing, did any of your koni's seem soft before you put them in? I've never seen a shock or strut that could be depressed by hand so easily.

 

Yes I could easily depress them.

The impact gun is almost a MUST for this job.

I think the ride is about right. I feel like I get bounced around my car alot more now too. Annoying but "racey"

Where did you get new dust boots from?!?!??

 

The rude on full soft is great but train tracks are a nightmare now LOL. Went to the track today mainly to volunteer but I was able to get 2 laps in during lunch. I love it . How much space do both of you have between the rear bump stop and frame?

 

Ok cool. I just thought that was odd. The springs came with the boots.

Handling is way better but a bigger compromise on ride quality than I expected.

I'm not sure about the space on the bump stops, I'll have to check when I try to adjust the phb. Could that be the choppy feeling over bumps, am I hitting them?

 

It could be I have about 2 inches I think. I'll check. Tomorrow as well.

 

Well amen to all that! The stock one wouldn't come out of the passenger side mount for nothing. I couldn't is use my persuasion device cause no room to hit from the top. The metal that it goes between almost seemed too tight. Anyway, as last resort, I just pulled down with 2 hands and my head and shoulders naturally came off the ground (laying in back). Needless to say, bang! It broke loose and my elbows and head slammed the ground. Almost blacked out lol. My PHB was used also and damm, Like 45 minutes just to break that bad boy free. I finally got the middle nut free with a huge sink wrench.
Its still in adjusted but the rear end looks perfect. The jam nuts are still loose, need to get that tightened.

 

I think mine has way more then 2. Maybe 5 to 6? But the last time I seen it the car was on stands that were on the frame...

Yowzers! After a 230am camera phone light inspection, the bumpstop is less then an inch from the frame!!!! Probably barely enough to get a finger between. Is this normal?!?!?! Maybe that's what my ride is pretty **** harsh too when everyone says theirs is "like stock" lol

 

Here is a pic through the wheels.

 

Geez that's ridiculous. I'll bottom out angling up my driveway if that's the clearance. How much can you cut off before anything starts to rub during suspension travel?