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Old Apr 12, 2012 | 09:26 AM
  #41  
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When you do the rear shocks, you'll have to use two wrenched as well to break the top nut loose. It's located in the trunk.
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Old Apr 12, 2012 | 10:57 AM
  #42  
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Nothing beats hands on to explain it all! I can't wait to start this!

Thanks for all the replies and info so far! I just don't like going into something blind, especially with no step by step to follow!
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Old Apr 12, 2012 | 11:00 AM
  #43  
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Also I think I had asked earlier but didn't say i was doing a phb.....Is grease necessary for anything when installing struts/springs/mounts and an Adj Panhard Bar? I have the adjustable BMR with the poly bushings.

Last edited by 2012GTCS; Apr 12, 2012 at 11:03 AM.
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Old Apr 12, 2012 | 11:02 AM
  #44  
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Originally Posted by 2012GTCS
Also I think I had asked earlier, is grease necessary for anything when installing struts/springs/mounts and an Adj Panhard Bar? I have the BMR with the poly bushings.
No grease for the struts or springs, but the bushings on sway bars, Panhard bars, or lower control arms should be greased to prevent squeaking.
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Old Apr 12, 2012 | 11:03 AM
  #45  
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Originally Posted by Overboost

No grease for the struts or springs, but the bushings on sway bars, Panhard bars, or lower control arms should be greased to prevent squeaking.
Thanks. Kinda just slather a little on there at the connections?
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Old Apr 12, 2012 | 11:06 AM
  #46  
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Originally Posted by 2012GTCS

Thanks. Kinda just slather a little on there at the connections?
Put a nice even coat on the inside of the bushings on the sway bars. For the Panhard and lower control arms, put a coat on the outside faces before putting them in.
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Old Apr 12, 2012 | 12:03 PM
  #47  
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Originally Posted by devildog1679
Good video but you don’t have to remove the brake caliper on either end to swap out.
That is correct. I removed the fronts on mine just to make it easier to work with and not put my brake lines in any kind of a bind. The rears however I did not remove and there was plenty of slack back there.
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Old Apr 12, 2012 | 12:13 PM
  #48  
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Originally Posted by RobDis

That is correct. I removed the fronts on mine just to make it easier to work with and not put my brake lines in any kind of a bind. The rears however I did not remove and there was plenty of slack back there.
Do you have the part numbers for all of the fasteners you replaced? If so, post those up here.
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Old Apr 12, 2012 | 08:23 PM
  #49  
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The little brass ports on the PHB, are those attachments where it can be greased? Is it necessary to grease it using that method or can you do it by hand?
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Old Apr 12, 2012 | 08:30 PM
  #50  
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Originally Posted by 2012GTCS
The little brass ports on the PHB, are those attachments where it can be greased? Is it necessary to grease it using that method or can you do it by hand?
Those are prob grease fittings. Do you have a grease gun?
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Old Apr 12, 2012 | 09:58 PM
  #51  
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No, I could either buy or borrow from a friend tho. So I would just grease it afterwards then? Or I could still lube it prior anyway?
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Old Apr 13, 2012 | 02:44 AM
  #52  
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Originally Posted by 2012GTCS
No, I could either buy or borrow from a friend tho. So I would just grease it afterwards then? Or I could still lube it prior anyway?
You would want to lube the sides prior to install and than the zerk fitting once installed.
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Old Apr 13, 2012 | 07:55 AM
  #53  
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About to Start this is about an hour!
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Old Apr 13, 2012 | 08:08 AM
  #54  
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Originally Posted by 2012GTCS
About to Start this is about an hour!
Good luck bro! Hope everything goes smoothly!
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Old Apr 13, 2012 | 08:15 AM
  #55  
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Take plenty of pics, doing mine on Wednesday.
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Old Apr 13, 2012 | 08:22 AM
  #56  
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Originally Posted by 2012GTCS
About to Start this is about an hour!
Good luck! I think you'll realize its easier than you thought it would be.
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Old Apr 13, 2012 | 02:22 PM
  #57  
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Need some quick advice. The stock rear shocks have a rubber grommet on top and the koni's don't. I got the koni in and the trunk bolt is as tight as she'll go and I have this Space above the dust cover and the cover spins freely. Is this right?! The stock ones don't seem to come off.

The rest trunk bolts are a pain. A 1/4" wrench is way too small to hold while reaching. Had to use an adjustable and it stripped it a little..,

Here's pics
Attached Thumbnails Checklist for Strut/Spring Install...-image-622873427.jpg   Checklist for Strut/Spring Install...-image-661350414.jpg   Checklist for Strut/Spring Install...-image-3832169367.jpg  
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Old Apr 13, 2012 | 02:25 PM
  #58  
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No need for the rubber grommet.

the koni rubber pieces have lips on them that fit into the holes and keep the strut centered.

just put the washer on and first rubber piece with the lip facing up, insert the strut, put on the second rubber piece with the lip facing down, followed by the washer and nut.
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Old Apr 13, 2012 | 02:38 PM
  #59  
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mine came with none of that....
Just a strut was in the box and I put the factory trunk bolt back on....

Here's a pic.... That's it, nothing else in the box
Attached Thumbnails Checklist for Strut/Spring Install...-image-82919248.jpg  

Last edited by 2012GTCS; Apr 13, 2012 at 02:40 PM.
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Old Apr 13, 2012 | 03:05 PM
  #60  
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I got the stock piece off, wondering of I should used that. When I jack up the rear I get space in the trunk and the shock wobbles all over
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