ShaneM

IDK, carbotech told me the RP2 and XP10 are equivalent with the XP10 offering better modulation. However, the RP2 is an endurance pad made for longer pad life. i didn't want to drop $200 every other track day so i went with the RP2. i will tell you they had much better stopping power than the hawk HP+ i had on the car before. also my track is very hard on brakes and fluid, i'd say no fade here means the chance of fade anywhere for me isn't likely.

SD GT

Kevin,
I asked the same question, since Rocketman is a big fan of XP20/16.
Mike Jr at Carbotech said XP20/XP16 are an option if you're running r-comp tires.
If not, XP10 or RP2. Since I'm running Nitto NT-05 tires, I went with RP2 and XP8.
If you have any questions about the offerings, call Carbotech, and Mike Jr will steer you to what choices you have. But call as soon as they open, or you may have a hard time getting him on the phone.

Dig-It Racing

Thanks for the advice Wayne. I'll give him a call when I get home.

Shane, please keep us up to date with wear and performance observations.

roketman

I hope you enjoy them as much as I do!

bob

Anybody try the Vorshlag CC plates?

http://www.vorshlag.com/product_info...roducts_id=274

They are out of stock now, but I've got awhile before I swap out my suspension and I've been thinking about giving them a try

SD GT

JSheier runs Vorshlag plates.

And Sam Strano lists them on his web site--email him to see if he has them in stock.
http://www.stranoparts.com/index.php

JPC

I live about 2mins away from Vorshlag shop in Allen, TX
I've talked with Terry (Vorshlag owner) several times about their CC plates.
....I'm very excited about the ability to adjust at the track!!!!
http://www.vorshlag.com/product_info...roducts_id=274

I plan to install as soon as redesign is complete.

06GT

Vorshlag plates are well-made but very expensive compared to the alternatives.

SD GT

Changing camber also changes toe. Cloud9 will only change camber when done with a full allignment to get toe re-set.
Not saying you can't do it at the track, but be sure you know how much your toe is changing when you do that.
Most of us run -2.0 to -2.7 camber on the streed with no problems.

06GT

It's not that big a deal.

JScheier

It's really not a big deal. One alignment check at street settings to get the toe where you want it, another check at 'track' setting to see where toe ends up.

Also, for the most part, negative camber isn't what chews up your tires, it's the associated excess toe-in or toe-out which drags the tire along the pavement. So running -3* on the street with zero toe will result in tire wear, but nowhere near as fast as running -3* of camber with 1/8" toe-out in the front.

And yes, I do run Vorshlag camber plates on my car. I'm biased (some of you know why), so I don't push them. I've also run Maximum Motorsport plates on three previous mustangs. Both are very good plates and I would recommend either over any other brands out there. Terry Fair (Vorshlag) and Jack Hidley (MM) are both very good at what they do and generate excellent products.

The next set of Vorshlag plates will have some improvements that I've talked to Terry about and that others who are using them have discussed. Plus, they will be more pretty (Terry is a pimp).

orng302

Are you saying that negative camber is not what wears the inside of the tire faster than the outside?

JScheier

No... I didn't say that. What I said was, Meaning, while most people who lower their car ***ume (edit: wow, you can't use the word a s sume) that it's the negative camber that wears out their tire so fast, it is usually their lack of removing the corresponding toe-out (front steer cars) or toe-in (rear steer cars) that accelerates the wear on the tires.

If you have zero* toe, and -3* of negative camber, yes, the inner edge of the tire will wear faster than the outer edge of the tire. However, if you have that same -3* of camber, and have not zeroed your toe settings, then you are effectively dragging the tire along the pavement which will lead to greater acceleration (and that cool choppy tread pattern) of tire wear.

orng302

Got it now.

cloud9

John's absolutely right on this. That's why I just leave mine at (currently -2.7) and zero toe to preserve the street tires. When I would change it back and forth I always screwed up the toe and wrecked my street tires. So the bottom line is if you're going to change your camber at the track, you better be able to recalibrate your toe for the street without an alignment or you'll "chop" the street tires.

JScheier

The funny thing (or the expensive thing) is that adding 1/2 a degree of camber, you don't see much in the way of accelerated wear. Add an 1/8" of toe out and BAM... tires are crap. That's the downside of the plates... unless you can guarantee that you can get them exactly back to where your street setting is, your toe will be off.

2006mach1

I am going to be getting my front end aligned shortly now that I have MM C/C plates installed and from what you guys are saying, I should be at 0 toe and 2.5 to 2.7 negative camber and that this setting will allow me to be able to drive it on the street also. How about the caster setting?

5 DOT 0

With the updated Vorshlag plates will you be able to dial in more camber beyond -2.8 to -3.0 before the springs bind? Not that I'll need it but I'm curious.

JScheier

Maybe yes... maybe no The new design 'should' allow you to move the strut top in further making the spring to strut tower the limiting factor.

bob

They do look top notch, epsecially with the oversized bearing and specific spring perches.