Brake Duct Kit Installation
Cobra R Member
Joined: December 3, 2010
Posts: 1,851
Likes: 3
Have not finished yet but a couple of thing I did.
1) was to sand down the fog light inserts, then run a rough file over them. After I did this the hose stays on securely.
2) on the hoses to the dust shields I started cutting the wire out on one side piece by piece and then pulling out the little cut pieces. This made a mess of the hose. The second hose I just split the two layers and pulled the coiled wire out whole from the top. It split the two layers apart but did far less damage then cutting out little pieces. It is ridiculous how they can make something that clearly does not fit together correctly.
1) was to sand down the fog light inserts, then run a rough file over them. After I did this the hose stays on securely.
2) on the hoses to the dust shields I started cutting the wire out on one side piece by piece and then pulling out the little cut pieces. This made a mess of the hose. The second hose I just split the two layers and pulled the coiled wire out whole from the top. It split the two layers apart but did far less damage then cutting out little pieces. It is ridiculous how they can make something that clearly does not fit together correctly.
Last edited by 2012YellowBoss; Sep 5, 2011 at 03:21 PM.
Tasca Super Boss 429 Member
Joined: December 18, 2010
Posts: 3,708
Likes: 0
From: NorCal
I don't know if this will help anyone but I did find a way to solve the hose connection to the backing plate with the cooling connection.That hole is 3"(as everyone is aware).I bought 2ft of 3 1/8" aircraft SCAT tubing.I cut in in half leaving 2 ,12" pieces.I then connected it to the backing plate cooler connection with a wide band screw type clamp,as well as the supplied screw type clamp.I verifyed that it was a strong connection.I then put the supplied 3" hose INSIDE the 3 1/8" hose and it fit nice.By using tie stips I secured the 3'' hose.It works very well since their is very much of the 3" stuffed into the 3 1/8" hose.The SCAT tubing is MAJOR stout and good to 550 degrees.Anyway I tried several ways and read a lot of other posts and thought I would try this.I hope it helps others.I bought the SCAT tubing at Aircraft Spruce.
txclyde1
LS 014
txclyde1
LS 014
http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/appages/sceet.php
Mach 1 Member
Joined: January 14, 2011
Posts: 583
Likes: 0
From: NorCal
IMHO, just remove the wire. I inspected my hoses after 3000 miles. There is no sign of wear due to wire removal, but there is wear from the steering control arm. We'll probably be replacing the hoses after a year or two anyway. The routing of them was an after thought and not well integrated into the design of the car. The wire's function is to prevent crushing in tight locations, not a problem at the backing plate.
Tasca Super Boss 429 Member
Joined: December 18, 2010
Posts: 3,708
Likes: 0
From: NorCal
IMHO, just remove the wire. I inspected my hoses after 3000 miles. There is no sign of wear due to wire removal, but there is wear from the steering control arm. We'll probably be replacing the hoses after a year or two anyway. The routing of them was an after thought and not well integrated into the design of the car. The wire's function is to prevent crushing in tight locations, not a problem at the backing plate.
Last edited by 5 DOT 0; Sep 4, 2011 at 09:09 AM.
Bullitt Member
Joined: January 17, 2011
Posts: 257
Likes: 0
Originally Posted by 2012YellowBoss
Waiting on the fog light bezels to arrive now from Ford Racing also, thanks for the tip on that one guys. Will have to wait untill after Track Attack to get to this. Should be easy to do with all the help posted here and other thread 
Does FRPP sell the inlet ducts separately? I bought my Boss 302 Kit from Late Model Restoration, so I don't know if Ford will provide them gratis like I've read in the posts.
Mach 1 Member
Joined: January 14, 2011
Posts: 583
Likes: 0
From: NorCal
Cobra R Member
Joined: December 3, 2010
Posts: 1,851
Likes: 3
Yes they will, just call Ford-Racing and tell them your kit was missing the two pieces. They will ask where you bought it and check with that company or if you can scan or fax a paid copy of the receipt to them (I did this) they will send the missing parts out.
Bullitt Member
Joined: January 17, 2011
Posts: 257
Likes: 0
Originally Posted by 2012YellowBoss
Yes they will, just call Ford-Racing and tell them your kit was missing the two pieces. They will ask where you bought it and check with that company or if you can scan or fax a paid copy of the receipt to them (I did this) they will send the missing parts out.
Cobra R Member
Joined: December 3, 2010
Posts: 1,851
Likes: 3
I took Wayne's advise with the washer bottle by adding some washes on the one stud between the mounting point and the bottle itself. Then I did a something a little different by just using zip ties in place of the other two bolts. This let me reposition it out and upward so I could keep the hose straight and I did not have to cut the fog light pieces up front.
The ties I used were heavy duty and the bottle is in there securely but will see how it works after my next track day.
The ties I used were heavy duty and the bottle is in there securely but will see how it works after my next track day.
Mach 1 Member
Joined: January 14, 2011
Posts: 583
Likes: 0
From: NorCal
You may have to crush the original circular crossection into an oval one so the hose doesn't interfere with the extreme wheel positions. The crossection the hose assumes to snake by the bottle is no worse than that required for tire clearance. I think moving the washer reservoir may be unnecessary.
Last edited by 4pipes; Sep 8, 2011 at 07:12 PM.
Cobra R Member
Joined: December 3, 2010
Posts: 1,851
Likes: 3
You are correct Dave but keeping the hoses as straight as possible I figured will help some. Others reasons I did this was to run it straight back from the bezels and I did not have to cut them, I want to put this car back together if I get a 13. This may also reduce rubbing on the hose.
One must do is the rough file of the bezels. When I put the hose on there it took effort to spin it around, I bet they would stay on without the clamp (but not going to try that
)
One last tip, just remove the inner fender plastic nothing forward of that (like the instructions say) to remove the fog light bezels. You can get your arm up in there and just push them out. I was at first feeling around for the clips but that is not even needed. Slight pressure and they pop right out.
One must do is the rough file of the bezels. When I put the hose on there it took effort to spin it around, I bet they would stay on without the clamp (but not going to try that
)One last tip, just remove the inner fender plastic nothing forward of that (like the instructions say) to remove the fog light bezels. You can get your arm up in there and just push them out. I was at first feeling around for the clips but that is not even needed. Slight pressure and they pop right out.
Mach 1 Member
Joined: January 14, 2011
Posts: 583
Likes: 0
From: NorCal
I pushed the bezels out also. My hand got a little scuffed up in the process.
I didn't remove the mounting feature for the fog light either, just snaked the hose around it. I believe the actual front inlet diameter is more of a restriction than the hose kink in the rear of the bezel.
Anyway, my stock brakes have served me well, but as you can see from my videos, I'm not setting any track records......just having fun.
I didn't remove the mounting feature for the fog light either, just snaked the hose around it. I believe the actual front inlet diameter is more of a restriction than the hose kink in the rear of the bezel.
Anyway, my stock brakes have served me well, but as you can see from my videos, I'm not setting any track records......just having fun.
Bullitt Member
Joined: July 1, 2011
Posts: 279
Likes: 0
From: SD
Wow Scott, you really moved the washer bottle over!
I carefully pried the benzels out with a flat screwdriver from the front. Didn't have the fender well removed yet, so didn't realize that makes them accessable.
Now that I've got a couple thousand miles on mine after install, I need to crawl under there and see if I'm getting any rubbing/wear and if so, see if I can make any adjustments.
I carefully pried the benzels out with a flat screwdriver from the front. Didn't have the fender well removed yet, so didn't realize that makes them accessable.
Now that I've got a couple thousand miles on mine after install, I need to crawl under there and see if I'm getting any rubbing/wear and if so, see if I can make any adjustments.
Cobra R Member
Joined: December 3, 2010
Posts: 1,851
Likes: 3
Wayne, I took the first pic with the tie just lined up, it was pulled in a lot closer after I took the pic. The only way you can tell the difference it up top where the cap is, it sits just under the plastic front cover. I considered just pulling the whole thing out but this should work fine for now.
This bottle is very big, it would not take much to modify one that would fit better with the duct kit, maybe the 13 will be that way
Plus the guys at the dealer filled it last time I was in for an oil change, took a half gallon out and there is still plenty of fluid left in there. Over-kill?
This bottle is very big, it would not take much to modify one that would fit better with the duct kit, maybe the 13 will be that way
Plus the guys at the dealer filled it last time I was in for an oil change, took a half gallon out and there is still plenty of fluid left in there. Over-kill?
Bullitt Member
Joined: July 1, 2011
Posts: 279
Likes: 0
From: SD
Yea, that tank holds about a gallon. When I put the Steeda kit in my GT, I drained the tank and pretty much filled up a gallon milk jug.
Lifetime supply of fluid.
Maybe running it w/ only a pint or 2 is a great way to shave some weight off our Boss.
Lifetime supply of fluid.
Maybe running it w/ only a pint or 2 is a great way to shave some weight off our Boss.
Shelby GT350 Member
Joined: November 20, 2010
Posts: 2,382
Likes: 1
From: Sioux Falls, SD
