We agree, but it's not our call. If you want it, you gotta tell them!
I will update my post.
Sorry for confusion, but I guess I just assumed people would get that DDX is not DNX or DNN.


Cheers,

 

Thanks!

Now you're making me feel ignorant - not that I can say I don't deserve it.

 

It makes me happy that there are still nice people in the world that don't take things to seriously and have a good sense of humor!


Cheers!

 

@12v Guy - it makes me happy that their are still people and companies in the world like you that actively and accurately support their products.

 

+1...great support!

 

AWWWWW Shucks! I'm blushing at work!! LOL Sincerely, thanks! We are small in this market (audio adaptors) but we try really hard.


Glad it matters!


Best,

 

I expect that will change very soon ...

I'm not extremely familiar with the Mustang, but I am familiar with the Focus and Fiesta.

As I mentioned to a Crutchfield rep:

I saw your Mustang kit at https://themustangsource.com/f803/ke...524857/index3/ and I was VERY impressed. Two items:

Fit and Finish - The kit LOOKS factory, and the radio is high up on the dash. Also, the custom selection of buttons is nice. Most kits for this car have a somewhat cheesy LCD to separately control the HVAC.

Functionality - Most kits try to retain MOST of the factory functionality - IDS tends to go BEYOND it. I.e. Metra lets you keep SYNC, but the MFD doesn't get updated like your system and you also add gauges, TPMS, HVAC fan slowdown when a call is received and two functions for each steering wheel control button.

And the cost really isn't much more than the other solutions. My only gripe is that it really only fully works with $600 and up Kenwood head units - but that isn't a fault of IDS.

 

I apologize in advance if this is a stupid question - but - does the harness from the MUS1 Dash Kit/Maestro RR/Kenwood DNX890HD pretty much plug and play with the harness connectors on the car side?

i realize that there is a blue wire to splice into on the Sync side (thanks for the pics ColSaulTigh!), and the OBD2 port if you want the gauges - but - are there any other wires that have to be cut/soldered to get the overall system installed? (plan to use the factory amp)

Just trying to get an idea of the wiring scope before I dive in!

Thanks!

 

I'll let 12v Guy confirm, but I wouldn't expect there to be a lot of factory wires cut by the install - there probably are a dozen or so wires on the Kenwood that have to be spliced into the IDS harness.

 

Nope, that's it. Everything else is a 1:1 connection to the harness and head unit. There are a couple of unused wires (future use?) that don't connect to anything, but other than that, it's pretty simple.

 

Would I need to buy the maestro rr module if my mustang isn't equipped with sync?

 

Yes you do. The kit and module work together and you need both.

 

12V Guy,

as always - thanks for all the great info!

I have a 2014 Premium GT. I thought I read on another forum that the front main speakers are driven by the HU and not a factory amp - and that the only factory Amp in the vehicle is for the front door subwoofers (and that there may be one or two amps depending how Ford felt on the day the car was built). Is this correct?

If this is the case - just looking for feedback on how the DNX890HD will do driving the front mains (which I will be replacing with the Pioneer TSD6802R). Not looking to go deaf any further than I already have at my age - but - do want to get a nice clean sound. Is this doable with the DNX890HD, or, best to put an aftermarket Amp in to drive the new Pioneer's? I only want to go into the dash once!

Thanks!

 

This may be confusing so HOLD ON. Pre-2013, there are three configs for the car. Four speakers always off head unit, front and rear. Then a version with 2 subs in door (Shaker 500) and with 4 subs (Shaker 1000). These are driven by RCA input to the small 8 pin harness in car.


In 2013, they changed the config.


If you have what is called "Premium Audio" then you have Speakers all driven off of the head unit and no amplifier.


If you have what is called Shaker - You have a multi-channel amplifier that drives four full range speakers (front and rear) and a subwoofer in each door.


Shaker Pro is the same, but adds another subwoofer amplifier to drive rear subwoofers that is driven by the small 8 pin plug.


So in this case, the radio inputs will drive the entire amplifier. We have had some people say that this overdrives the input and they end up cutting up some RCA and attaching them to the t-harness to drive the amp with F/R RCA from the Kenwood instead of driving the amp from the speaker outputs. We will be testing this config in the next two weeks and will put out a fix in our next production.


Which config do you have? If you have either of the Shaker setups, we can help you get tuned up. You would just need a cheap 0.5 foot RCA cable that we will cut up and connect to the T-harness.


Things like this are a pain, but I have to give it to Ford, they keep trying to make their stock systems do more and sound better so I won't complain.


Cheers,

 

With my 2014 Shaker...what should be my connections to the DNX890? Do I need to splice in some RCA connectors? If so, do you have a wiring diagram?

Thanks

 

12V Guy,

I my case, I have the Shaker 500 in my 2014 Premium GT.

Appreciate your assistance with the proper way to wire.

 

 

This may already be here but I can't find it. And Kenwood site is not clear.


How does one tell what is a 2013 Kenwood vs. a 2012 Kenwood?

 

No Diagram available yet. Basically, what you will do is cut the connection between the speaker wires from the radio and the T-harness. There are 4 pairs each with solid wire and wire with black stripe - Green, Purple, White and Gray. Once you cut them you will should tape off the wires to the radio. You can then take a short male to male RCA cord and cut it in half.


For all cases, the shield of the RCA (outside ring of RCA) will go to the wire with the black stripe and the solid wire will go to the signal wire (center part of RCA).


Take one half of RCA and wire it to the front speaker wires of the Maestro T-Harness - Gray to the RED RCA and White to the WHITE RCA. Then plug these into the Kenwood Front RCA outputs.


Take remaining half of the RCA cable and wire it to the rear speaker wires of the Maestro T-Harness - Purple to the RED RCA and Green to the WHITE RCA. Finally plug these into the Rear RCA outputs of the Kenwood.


This will reduce the signal into the factory amplifier and give you much more usable volume curve.


Cheers,

 

2013 Navigation radios have 3 digit model numbers - i.e. DNX690HD (2013) as opposed to DNX6190HD (2012).


Remember DDX is a NO GO.


Cheers,