That's it, I'm moving the the US. You can't even buy the steel to make a roll cage for that amount in Oz

 

Good info walt460. The information manufacturers publish on their CAN systems tends to be a little short of the truth - only by experimenting (like you have) can we get the real picture. Thanks for the update.

 

Well there's that, but we also have a lot less dangerous marine life, insects, reptiles, and animals

 

IMPORTANT INFORMATION FOR SWAPPING AN ECOBOOST IN A MUSTANG

Ok, I believe we had a breakthrough on getting part of the tune figured out. All the information was right in front of us but it took a while to get on the same page.

Hptuners thought I was using an f150 fuel pump in my car, they missed on my list of mods that I was using gt500 dual fuel pumps. This was creating all kinds of problems. The ecoboost F150 uses a mechanical returnless fuel system and so does the 2011+ 5.0 mustang. Gt500 on the other hand uses a electronic returnless fuel system.

A mechanical returnless is actually a return type fuel system, it simply bleeds off the additional pressure inside the tank through the fuel pump assy instead of bleeding it off under the hood and going all the way back to the tank. This maintains the 58psi the engine is looking for. Now it makes perfect sense why you need a return fuel system for a coyote or ecoboost control pack OR you can simply use the f150 fuel pump or the coyote fuel pump but this would require using one of their oem fuel tanks......in 2011 the fuel tank changed on the mustang.....one more reason not to swap this in a 2005-2010.

With a mechanical returnless the pump speed is varied by the factory PCM so at low speeds it returns minimal fuel inside the tank, which heats the gas less. You don't want to heat the gas for a few reasons. I'm not positive but I bet the control packs eliminates the pump speed control so the pump runs at 100% all the time. You can however use an aeromotive fuel pump controller 16306 to control pump speed similar to the oem if using a control pack. I would recommend this with a control pack. http://www.summitracing.com/parts/aei-16306 You will need this to make it work for computer controlled mustangs http://www.summitracing.com/parts/atm-9117

Our problem is that the gt500 pumps do not have the mechanical pressure bleed-off on the pump housing. The gt500 PCM controls the pumps to create the correct constant pressure, this function does not exist in the ecoboost PCM. This means my pumps are building far too much pressure for the engine to run properly, this is why I blew out the fuel hose.

Our solution for now is to replace the gt500 fuel pump with a 5.0 coyote fuel pump and later add a BAP to get more fuel out of it or go back to the gt500 pump with a return fuel line. I already swapped the fuel tank to the 2014 gt500 which is the same as the 5.0. I found a 5.0 pump used for $36, so this is a cheap fix until I buy the BAP. I could add a return line for my current setup with the gt500 pumps and still use them. It was a toss up, I may add the return line so I can use the gt500 pumps instead of adding a bap to the 5.0 pump. I'll decide this later, but for $36 it's an easy decision to test with the 5.0 pump.

One other issue is that the hole in the body of the 2010 mustang to pull the fuel pump through is smaller than the hole for the 2011+ so the fuel pump won't come out without dropping the tank or cutting the hole in the body larger. I'm going to order a 2011+ fuel pump cover and use that as a guide to cut the correct size hole, then use the new cover instead. Yet another reason not to swap this in a 2005-2010. These issues can be resolved with a fuelhat for 2005-2010 mustangs, includes a return port and fits perfectly. This part pictured below can be used near the tank to create a return fuel system cheaply with the correct psi. Cheap, simple, and has a built in filter. http://www.summitracing.com/parts/tnk-ls9904

I'm not sure why anyone makes a return fuel system that has the bypass under the hood. This puts more heat in to the fuel due to friction both ways and that temps under the hood are high. This means you have to run an expensive long line back to the tank too....doesn't make any sense. Return your fuel in the tank (oem method) or right by the tank for the best efficiency.

 

Also I should mention that it should be possible to add a gt500 dual pump to any coyote using the parts I mentioned above. If you mount a return fuel filter (see below) just outside the tank, it automatically keeps the supply line at 58 psi just like it would with a coyote fuel pump. You can drill a hole in the top of the gt500 fuel pump housing and mount a fuel cell bulkhead (see below) which allows you to attach a return fuel line or drill this in to the fuel sender unit so it's pushing fuel in to the other side of the tank. Inside the tank attach a hose to the bulkhead to make sure the fuel drops down to the bottom of the tank to reduce air bubbles and evaporation.

Still need the second fuel pump module and all connectors to make it work.

If I put the gt500 pump back in the car this is exactly what I will do. If so I'll do a write up.

 

Great info! Thanks so much, this will definitely be useful. I'm glad I didn't start on my fuel system yet. I think I'll have to wait until your car is going strong before I tackle that step as it sounds like my fuel system will be more or less the same as yours. Is that distributorless tach adapter how you're planning to solve your tach issue or is that somehow related to the fueling?

 

EDITED, the 3.7 and 5.0 have the same pump it seems.

I'm 99% sure you have what you need already installed in your 3.7. If I were you I wouldn't worry about the fuel system except making the custom hose to connect from your factory hose connection in the fender-well to the ecoboost HPFP and the fuel pump controller. Once you get the car running and start modyfing it you may need to upgrade to a BAP but I doubt it because the fuel pump you have will make some serious power. Keep in mind this should only be an issue for the control pack, with a factory PCM like mine it will automatically reduce pump volume based on rpm.

Here's a good article that explains a lot about the tach adapter and the fuel pump controller. http://www.dragzine.com/tech-stories...e-and-fragola/

 

Hptuners is having some other challenges with the tune that are causing delays. Basically all the tuning ever done on an 3.5 ecoboost has been done with an automatic transmission, this is the first car with this engine/trans setup they have tuned. From what I understand they have to start from scratch and figure out all the calculations. I don't think this is beyond their capabilities, it's just time consuming. These calculations will be what's used to tune any ecoboost control packs and any ecoboost ran with a manual trans.

It will take me a week to straighten out the fuel system, then we can take it for a drive for more data logging.

 

It all seems so simple now......just a bit painful getting there.
Another hurdle overcome, well done and an excellent explanation.

 

True, sad but true......

 

Sharks with fricking lasers! LMAO!!!

 

I know right , classic....

 

Ya this....f*** this.....

, I couldn't resist!

 

Please tell me that's photoshopped!!!!

 

Pretty sure that's real

http://www.dailymail.co.uk/news/arti...ting-bird.html

The shark with the frickin laser attached, I think was photoshopped

 

F THAT!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

Why are you lot all making light of this - deadly wildlife is a real problem down here, we're all scared s%^tless

 

We've got a socialist and a criminal running for prez here. We're all scared s%^tless too.

 

Yeah, I forgot about your elections.
That's it, no matter how cheap things are in the US, and how dangerous the wildlife is over here, I'm staying away from any country where the politicians are worse than Oz....and we've got a right bunch of meatheads to choose from.

Now, back to Ecostang....where did we get to?

 

On the upside, 'Waltzing Matilda' is the coolest national anthem of any country, even if it's only unofficial.