Maybe I should call about the WOT box to make sure it's compatible, I just assumed it would work. I had the fuel line custom made in Boulder, they reused the metal fitting on the oem fuel hose that connects in the fender well, they attached that to a braided stainless steel hose. The other end of my oem fuel hose had a plastic fitting so it couldn't be reused. They had that metal fitting in stock and attached that to the other end of the stainless steel hose. It was all professionally done, no hose clamps. Ended up costing $130 but I'm completely confident about the quality and no longer worry about it.

When you get to this part of your build I'll help you out with the hose length and pics of the fittings. I could even help you get connected with the shop in Boulder if you wanted them to make it, although you can probably get that locally.

 

I was really worried about that first fuel line you had. You can burn one to the ground quickly with a crappy fuel line and high fuel pressure.

 

Ya that thing was sketchy! The specs for the rubber hose met all the needed specs but when the gt500 pumps made unregulated pressure it failed miserably. The new hose was unaffected by the gt500 pump pressure.

 

.....

 

Thanks! I assumed it was probably something custom and local, I was just hoping it might be off the shelf though because that would make it a bit easier. But I'll probably be able to find a local shop to do it.

And you're just running your OEM 5.0 fuel pump on the factory F150 ECU right now, correct?

 

Yes 2014 GT fuel pump, which is the same as the v6, on f150 fuel pump driver and f150 PCM. With the control pack you won't need the fuel pump module, just plug the pump in to switched 12v power and you will be good to go. If your worried about it cycling too much at idle and heating the fuel you can go with an aftermarket fuel pump controller that will ramp up the pump based on rpm.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/121852396164?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
I wante to mention another tip to you, if I was doing this all over again I would add 1/2" lowering motor mounts. The factory will work but the turbo pipes get really close to the hood, maybe 1/16" clearance.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/172031844620?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

 

Sound clip from the back with 3/4 throttle, defintely a v6

 

I was actually thinking about doing the BMR K member with 1/2" lower motor mounts. You don't think there will be any issue with steering shaft clearance with lower mounts? If possible I would love to lower the engine, if only for just better CoG, but I also would like a bit of space for upgraded turbos in the future too.

I was considering just wiring the pump to turn on with the ignition, but I believe that is what the guy who put a 427 in his car did and I think he said it killed the fuel pump in like a year of occasional driving. It's probably what I'll do for the time being, if only just to get the car going before I get a chance to change it out. I'm going to contact MPT though and see what they think on the matter. I don't know if it's actually possible, but if they could somehow get the factory 3.7 PCM to drive the fuel pump based on engine RPM or throttle position that would be great.

 

Good point, i think the 1/2" lowering with the stock turbos is ok but with the upgraded turbos that might be an issue. I'll probably upgrade to cavalli turbos and we can see how much room is left for lowering.

Different style fuel pump, I believe the 2005-2010 were electronic returnless. If that's true then no wonder it burnt up the pump, it was running wide open with nowhere to bleed off the fuel pressure. Your pump (2011+) has a mechanical bypass built in, it bypasses pressure beyond 58 psi, bleeding the pressure back in to the tank. The gt500 pumps were electronic returnless and probably would have went bad eventually too without being controlled properly, the GT/V6 are very simple in operation with the built in bypass. Think of it this way....the gt500 pump was constantly being revved up and down based on fuel needs since there was where else for the fuel to go but in to engine, just like the 427 swap. In 2011+ for the GT/v6 they changed to the built in bypass and only run the pump at 2 speeds (maybe 3?) instead of constant variation, any additional fuel is diverted back to the tank. This fuel is slightly heated by the pump when bypassed and could be a problem, that's why I mentioned the aftermarket fuel pump controller. This is really only an issue while idling, if you don't sit in to much traffic it probably won't ever be a problem. Unless your fuel was heated enough to damage the pump I couldn't see it shortening the life significantly. The only additonal wear would happen at idle, at this time a factory setup would only be running at 33% power I believe.

 

What I'll probably end up doing is getting the BMR engine mounts. They have 2 removable spacers so you can choose between stock height, .25" lower, and .5" lower. That way I can always change it if I need to, either if I have clearance issues or when I swap turbos.

The 427 swap I'm referring to was on a 2012 (jsimmons) so same fuel pump we have. I can't remember exactly how he did his fuel system though, there may have been another variable. I believe he said that he thought the failure was due to running his pump at max duty cycle all the time the car was on but it's been a while since I read his thread. Come to think of it I think he may have ran his factor fuel pump to an external fuel pressure regulator, so maybe that caused the failure.

 

Ya your right, its a 2012, I thought it was older for some reason. I wonder if it was from heat or whether it was from running at 100% duty all the time. I just don't see it wearing out in a year just because it wasn't running at 30% while idling. If he was running an external regulator it shouldn't make any difference for the pump, a regulator would have only been necessary if he was running less than 58 psi. I suppose with a carb you probably don't need 58 psi and he was probably returning even more fuel to the tank trying to run a lower pressure.

My advice would be run what you got, if you burn up a pump a used replacement is less than $50 and takes 30 min to change out. If you have to replace a pump then I would add the fuel pump controller I posted, that should take care of the problem either way.

 

Yeah, way down on pressure from what that pump would be putting out. 5 to 7 psi on a carb.

 

Wow, I bet he is returning a LOT of fuel back to the tank running pressures that low. If he's returning that fuel from under the hood it will pick up even more heat since the temps under the hood are high, plus all the friction in the lines running the fuel back and forth constantly. I bet the pump was damaged by heat and didn't just wear out in a year, just a guess though.

 

Yeah that seems extremely likely. That makes me feel much better about the idea though lol. I'll email MPT later this week and see if they can help me out with that. I imagine they could probably just have the factory PCM run it at 100% duty cycle all the time. That way I don't even have to worry about messing with the wiring.

 

You need a new fuel system (return style) anyways, so why bother with the current pump?

LEXiiON

 

woooow 30 pages deep on a 40 post-per-page setting and I'm just NOW seeing this thread?? Wtf, why didn't anyone tell me about this???

 

I tried but you were busy trying to police the picture quoting

 

I don't think he needs a new fuel system, he's got the 2011+ pump already. It acts as a return system as is, all it needs to do is hold 58 psi which it does no problem. A return fuel system would do the exact same thing.

 

I don't think you understand just how many people picture quote on these forums. Policing them is a VERY tough job and a burden I wouldn't want to wish upon any of you.

 

Ya your a little late to the party but