Notices
'10-14 V6 Modifications Place to discuss 2010 V6 modifications

Mustang 3.5L Ecoboost engine swap

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 10/13/15, 11:59 AM
  #381  
Cobra Member
Thread Starter
 
Ecostang's Avatar
 
Join Date: July 10, 2015
Location: Boulder
Posts: 1,102
Received 57 Likes on 34 Posts
Originally Posted by laserred38
Still looking, but here's an interesting link!

http://www.drivingenthusiast.net/sec-blog/?p=11329
Ya I have seen this before, too bad they didn't make a couple thousand of these to sell on the market for upgrades. This isn't a one piece like the 2015, I really like that one piece design.
Old 10/13/15, 01:44 PM
  #382  
Member
 
marcell707's Avatar
 
Join Date: October 12, 2015
Posts: 4
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
My project is based on the same car actually, 2011 mustang V6, same race red color and of course I will wait for you to finish, the only thing I will do is have the engine replaced so I can start working on the car at nights like you do. There is some crazy electrician here that's almost a magician with the wiring on engine swaps but I don't know if he's up to the test with these modern cars an so many computers.
Old 10/13/15, 01:58 PM
  #383  
Legacy TMS Member
 
laserred38's Avatar
 
Join Date: January 6, 2006
Location: Bay Area, CA
Posts: 14,047
Received 166 Likes on 141 Posts
Originally Posted by Ecostang
This would only be the equivalent of adding 3/4" wheel spacers on each side of the rear, people add 1" spacers all the time and it looks ok, 3/4" would look better.

This is 1" all the way around with my wheels.
Pretty sure you're picturing the wheels going the wrong way lol. If you add spacers, you're taking away offset. You need to add offset (or backspacing) if the track itself is wider.
Old 10/13/15, 02:27 PM
  #384  
Cobra Member
Thread Starter
 
Ecostang's Avatar
 
Join Date: July 10, 2015
Location: Boulder
Posts: 1,102
Received 57 Likes on 34 Posts
Originally Posted by laserred38
Pretty sure you're picturing the wheels going the wrong way lol. If you add spacers, you're taking away offset. You need to add offset (or backspacing) if the track itself is wider.
Maybe I'm not explaining myself well or maybe I don't understand. If the 2015 rear end is 1.5" wider than the s197 rear end that's 3/4" per side. Essentially if I put the 2015 rear end under my car my back wheels would stick out 3/4" more per side than they do right now. My point was that people use wheels spacers now to achieve that look on purpose and I was just showing an example of what my car would look like with a similar stance. If I put the 2015 rear end under my car I would not use any spacers on the rear and add 3/4" spacers to the front wheels to make the front the same as the back.
Old 10/13/15, 03:09 PM
  #385  
Cobra Member
Thread Starter
 
Ecostang's Avatar
 
Join Date: July 10, 2015
Location: Boulder
Posts: 1,102
Received 57 Likes on 34 Posts
Originally Posted by marcell707
My project is based on the same car actually, 2011 mustang V6, same race red color and of course I will wait for you to finish, the only thing I will do is have the engine replaced so I can start working on the car at nights like you do. There is some crazy electrician here that's almost a magician with the wiring on engine swaps but I don't know if he's up to the test with these modern cars an so many computers.

Not the same car as mine but to your advantage. The 2011 will be much easier for you to make this happen. My car is a 2010 and it had a 4.0 v6 and hydraulic steering, auto trans, wrong driveshaft and wrong rear end. 2011+ are much easier, your transmission, driveshaft, rear end, electric power steering, gauge cluster, engine side motor mounts and a/c lines all work. That's a huge cost savings to you on your project, had I known going in to this I certainly would have bought a 2011+ car.

You need an electrical engineer rather than electrician if you can find one, but that doesn't mean the electrician you mentioned is not up to the job. I think we will be able to walk you through what needs to be done once we finish this one. I can tell you now the biggest issue I see is getting both SJB units to work in harmony.

Last edited by Ecostang; 10/13/15 at 06:56 PM.
Old 10/13/15, 06:10 PM
  #386  
Legacy TMS Member
 
laserred38's Avatar
 
Join Date: January 6, 2006
Location: Bay Area, CA
Posts: 14,047
Received 166 Likes on 141 Posts
Originally Posted by Ecostang
Maybe I'm not explaining myself well or maybe I don't understand. If the 2015 rear end is 1.5" wider than the s197 rear end that's 3/4" per side. Essentially if I put the 2015 rear end under my car my back wheels would stick out 3/4" more per side than they do right now. My point was that people use wheels spacers now to achieve that look on purpose and I was just showing an example of what my car would look like with a similar stance. If I put the 2015 rear end under my car I would not use any spacers on the rear and add 3/4" spacers to the front wheels to make the front the same as the back.
Now we're on the same page, and yes you're right hahaha. Wow, my foot tastes terrible right now lol. Although, you'd still need to have a wheel with a stock, or near stock offset. Couldn't go too wide, like say a staggered 20x9/10.5 setup.

You're running GT500 wheels now right?
Old 10/13/15, 07:03 PM
  #387  
Cobra Member
Thread Starter
 
Ecostang's Avatar
 
Join Date: July 10, 2015
Location: Boulder
Posts: 1,102
Received 57 Likes on 34 Posts
Originally Posted by laserred38
Now we're on the same page, and yes you're right hahaha. Wow, my foot tastes terrible right now lol. Although, you'd still need to have a wheel with a stock, or near stock offset. Couldn't go too wide, like say a staggered 20x9/10.5 setup.

You're running GT500 wheels now right?
Lol, it's all good. I'm running the wheels in the pic I posted above, they are the GT/cs wheels. I'm going to have them widened front and back, obviously more in the back. Sounds crazy to spend this on stock mustang wheels but the idea is to create a sleeper. I want people to look at this car and shrug it off, the only noticeable change to the exterior of the car would be the gt500 front bumper and the quad tip muffler.

These wheels
Attached Thumbnails Mustang 3.5L Ecoboost engine swap-image.jpeg  

Last edited by Ecostang; 10/13/15 at 07:05 PM.
Old 10/13/15, 09:22 PM
  #388  
Legacy TMS Member
 
laserred38's Avatar
 
Join Date: January 6, 2006
Location: Bay Area, CA
Posts: 14,047
Received 166 Likes on 141 Posts
Originally Posted by Ecostang
Lol, it's all good. I'm running the wheels in the pic I posted above, they are the GT/cs wheels. I'm going to have them widened front and back, obviously more in the back. Sounds crazy to spend this on stock mustang wheels but the idea is to create a sleeper. I want people to look at this car and shrug it off, the only noticeable change to the exterior of the car would be the gt500 front bumper and the quad tip muffler.

These wheels
Gotcha. My buddy in our club is doing the same thing with his 50th Anniversary Package wheels on his 2015. Wants to keep the look of the wheel but get more meat on it.

With those wheels, you should be fine with track width if you're able to get the IRS to work...
Old 10/13/15, 11:33 PM
  #389  
Cobra Member
Thread Starter
 
Ecostang's Avatar
 
Join Date: July 10, 2015
Location: Boulder
Posts: 1,102
Received 57 Likes on 34 Posts
Originally Posted by laserred38
Gotcha. My buddy in our club is doing the same thing with his 50th Anniversary Package wheels on his 2015. Wants to keep the look of the wheel but get more meat on it.

With those wheels, you should be fine with track width if you're able to get the IRS to work...
Found this on eBay, a vendor selling the 2015 mustang IRS and listed the measurements. Hub to hub the IRS is listed at 66.25", so I went out and measured my 2010 car hub to hub.....66.25" exactly. I'll check the other measurments tomorrow and report back.
Attached Thumbnails Mustang 3.5L Ecoboost engine swap-image.png  
Old 10/14/15, 04:18 PM
  #390  
Member
 
marcell707's Avatar
 
Join Date: October 12, 2015
Posts: 4
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Wao but you changed the hole front end, and It looks great. Cause on the first pics I saw a 2013 front end on your car. Down here we also have a guy that works at a ford dealership, an he reprograms a lot of cars for a friend of mine who has a car dealership but of all brands. I will just sit and wait for your expert advise when your project is up and running, most of my friends with gt's don't believe I will leave them behind with this setup but I'm confident that I will
Old 10/14/15, 06:03 PM
  #391  
Cobra Member
Thread Starter
 
Ecostang's Avatar
 
Join Date: July 10, 2015
Location: Boulder
Posts: 1,102
Received 57 Likes on 34 Posts
Originally Posted by marcell707
Wao but you changed the hole front end, and It looks great. Cause on the first pics I saw a 2013 front end on your car. Down here we also have a guy that works at a ford dealership, an he reprograms a lot of cars for a friend of mine who has a car dealership but of all brands. I will just sit and wait for your expert advise when your project is up and running, most of my friends with gt's don't believe I will leave them behind with this setup but I'm confident that I will

I'm confident too! Ya my car is a 2010, I bought for the low miles. I changed it all to look like a 2014.

Right now I'm ordering lots of small parts that weren't included with my engine, vacuum hoses, small sensors, fuel vapor hoses. PITA to figure out what's missing and starting to add up. I ordered $350 worth of stuff just today and it's all small pigtails, hoses, sensors, etc.

What year engine did you get? I hope you got all the small parts with it.
Old 10/15/15, 05:20 AM
  #392  
Bullitt Member
 
sqidd's Avatar
 
Join Date: July 11, 2010
Location: Metro Detroit
Posts: 208
Received 18 Likes on 12 Posts
You will need to do MAJOR chassis modifications to run the IRS. If you're capable of building a roll cage and tubbing a car you will have what it takes. You will need at a minimum a tubing bender, tubing notcher, tig welder, sheet metal shear, sheet metal brake and a lathe. And really good measuring tools.

That's a big job.
Old 10/15/15, 06:57 AM
  #393  
Cobra Member
 
JoeMidnight's Avatar
 
Join Date: April 21, 2014
Location: Canada, Ontario
Posts: 1,099
Received 2 Likes on 1 Post
Originally Posted by sqidd
You will need to do MAJOR chassis modifications to run the IRS. If you're capable of building a roll cage and tubbing a car you will have what it takes. You will need at a minimum a tubing bender, tubing notcher, tig welder, sheet metal shear, sheet metal brake and a lathe. And really good measuring tools.

That's a big job.

may or may not be true. One things for sure, if anyone's up to the challenge, its this OP.
Old 10/15/15, 07:35 AM
  #394  
Bullitt Member
 
sqidd's Avatar
 
Join Date: July 11, 2010
Location: Metro Detroit
Posts: 208
Received 18 Likes on 12 Posts
Originally Posted by JoeMidnight
may or may not be true. One things for sure, if anyone's up to the challenge, its this OP.
I speak from experience. It's true.
Old 10/15/15, 07:48 AM
  #395  
Super Boss Lawman Member
 
SpectreH's Avatar
 
Join Date: February 5, 2015
Location: Yukon, OK
Posts: 4,322
Received 1,155 Likes on 843 Posts
That's why I wondered if the Lincoln LS would work, but apparently it isn't beefy enough and has no aftermarket support. The LS, a Jag, and the last Thunderbird all shared common ground with the S-197. But if those units are too weak, it would be a wasted effort.
Old 10/15/15, 08:00 AM
  #396  
Cobra Member
Thread Starter
 
Ecostang's Avatar
 
Join Date: July 10, 2015
Location: Boulder
Posts: 1,102
Received 57 Likes on 34 Posts
Originally Posted by sqidd
You will need to do MAJOR chassis modifications to run the IRS. If you're capable of building a roll cage and tubbing a car you will have what it takes. You will need at a minimum a tubing bender, tubing notcher, tig welder, sheet metal shear, sheet metal brake and a lathe. And really good measuring tools.

That's a big job.
I do have most of those things at work, mid welder instead of tig but that works fine. Keep in mind it's just 4 bolts (plus shock mounts), I'm not convinced yet it's that big of a job yet. If the IRS fits in the cavity that the original rearend fits in and all that has to be done is to create 4 mounts to attach it to the car body, it won't be that hard for me. I've done colliision work on cars in the past, its the only thing I went to college for. Locating the mounting holes on the car will be a little challenging but completely doable with a couple of key measuring devices that are used in the body shop.

I'll have my friend come over this weekend so I can measure his car, after that I'll be able to come up with a plan. It may take cutting the floor to get it in....that would certainly change the complexity of it. If it can't be done without major surgery I may reconsider.
Old 10/15/15, 08:02 AM
  #397  
Cobra Member
Thread Starter
 
Ecostang's Avatar
 
Join Date: July 10, 2015
Location: Boulder
Posts: 1,102
Received 57 Likes on 34 Posts
Originally Posted by SpectreH
That's why I wondered if the Lincoln LS would work, but apparently it isn't beefy enough and has no aftermarket support. The LS, a Jag, and the last Thunderbird all shared common ground with the S-197. But if those units are too weak, it would be a wasted effort.
I gotcha, I didn't realize there were any chassis similarities between them. I'll check out the 2015 first but if it won't fit maybe that's a consideration.
Old 10/15/15, 08:03 AM
  #398  
Cobra Member
Thread Starter
 
Ecostang's Avatar
 
Join Date: July 10, 2015
Location: Boulder
Posts: 1,102
Received 57 Likes on 34 Posts
Originally Posted by sqidd
I speak from experience. It's true.
Please tell us about your experience, have you tried to put a 2015 in a s197 already? I've looked online and haven't found anyone attempting it yet.
Old 10/15/15, 08:07 AM
  #399  
Bullitt Member
 
sqidd's Avatar
 
Join Date: July 11, 2010
Location: Metro Detroit
Posts: 208
Received 18 Likes on 12 Posts
Originally Posted by Ecostang
I do have most of those things at work, mid welder instead of tig but that works fine. Keep in mind it's just 4 bolts (plus shock mounts), I'm not convinced yet it's that big of a job yet. If the IRS fits in the cavity that the original rearend fits in and all that has to be done is to create 4 mounts to attach it to the car body, it won't be that hard for me. I've done colliision work on cars in the past, its the only thing I went to college for. Locating the mounting holes on the car will be a little challenging but completely doable with a couple of key measuring devices that are used in the body shop.

I'll have my friend come over this weekend so I can measure his car, after that I'll be able to come up with a plan. It may take cutting the floor to get it in....that would certainly change the complexity of it. If it can't be done without major surgery I may reconsider.
The big "issue" is the mounting points. All of them will have to be tied into something "solid". You will basically have to build a "subframe" into the car using tubing. And then sheet metal it in.

Swapping an IRS in is a long climb for a short slide. Unless you're looking at breaking some lap records at the road race track there is no performance advantage. In fact there is a performance penalty. It weighs more and there is more driveline loss with an IRS. And they aren't as strong as the 8.8. Hell, you will spend $1200-1600 on half shafts running the IRS. You will break the stock ones.

If you're looking just to do it because it's cool have at it. I can appreciate that. But it's not a good move as far as performance or expense goes. My $.02.
Old 10/15/15, 08:23 AM
  #400  
Cobra Member
Thread Starter
 
Ecostang's Avatar
 
Join Date: July 10, 2015
Location: Boulder
Posts: 1,102
Received 57 Likes on 34 Posts
Originally Posted by sqidd
The big "issue" is the mounting points. All of them will have to be tied into something "solid". You will basically have to build a "subframe" into the car using tubing. And then sheet metal it in.

Swapping an IRS in is a long climb for a short slide. Unless you're looking at breaking some lap records at the road race track there is no performance advantage. In fact there is a performance penalty. It weighs more and there is more driveline loss with an IRS. And they aren't as strong as the 8.8. Hell, you will spend $1200-1600 on half shafts running the IRS. You will break the stock ones.

If you're looking just to do it because it's cool have at it. I can appreciate that. But it's not a good move as far as performance or expense goes. My $.02.
Thanks, that makes complete sense and was what I was expecting. I love racing but I'm not a record setter for sure. My ***** aren't big enough for me to be a great racer lol. I was only wanting to do this for the cool factor and I have really enjoyed modding this car. I could have done something much simpler of course but I wanted something different. In a sea of mustangs I want to have something unique.

The friend that owns the 2015 is a is a PE (professional engineer) and is interested in this modification. Maybe I can get his help figuring it out, I would love to create a CAD drawing of the modification before trying it. We should be able to find chassis drawings, they are used in the body shop for colliision repair.


Quick Reply: Mustang 3.5L Ecoboost engine swap



All times are GMT -6. The time now is 10:24 AM.