Mustang 3.5L Ecoboost engine swap
#381
Cobra Member
Thread Starter
#382
My project is based on the same car actually, 2011 mustang V6, same race red color and of course I will wait for you to finish, the only thing I will do is have the engine replaced so I can start working on the car at nights like you do. There is some crazy electrician here that's almost a magician with the wiring on engine swaps but I don't know if he's up to the test with these modern cars an so many computers.
#383
Legacy TMS Member
Originally Posted by Ecostang
This would only be the equivalent of adding 3/4" wheel spacers on each side of the rear, people add 1" spacers all the time and it looks ok, 3/4" would look better.
This is 1" all the way around with my wheels.
This is 1" all the way around with my wheels.
#384
Cobra Member
Thread Starter
Maybe I'm not explaining myself well or maybe I don't understand. If the 2015 rear end is 1.5" wider than the s197 rear end that's 3/4" per side. Essentially if I put the 2015 rear end under my car my back wheels would stick out 3/4" more per side than they do right now. My point was that people use wheels spacers now to achieve that look on purpose and I was just showing an example of what my car would look like with a similar stance. If I put the 2015 rear end under my car I would not use any spacers on the rear and add 3/4" spacers to the front wheels to make the front the same as the back.
#385
Cobra Member
Thread Starter
My project is based on the same car actually, 2011 mustang V6, same race red color and of course I will wait for you to finish, the only thing I will do is have the engine replaced so I can start working on the car at nights like you do. There is some crazy electrician here that's almost a magician with the wiring on engine swaps but I don't know if he's up to the test with these modern cars an so many computers.
Not the same car as mine but to your advantage. The 2011 will be much easier for you to make this happen. My car is a 2010 and it had a 4.0 v6 and hydraulic steering, auto trans, wrong driveshaft and wrong rear end. 2011+ are much easier, your transmission, driveshaft, rear end, electric power steering, gauge cluster, engine side motor mounts and a/c lines all work. That's a huge cost savings to you on your project, had I known going in to this I certainly would have bought a 2011+ car.
You need an electrical engineer rather than electrician if you can find one, but that doesn't mean the electrician you mentioned is not up to the job. I think we will be able to walk you through what needs to be done once we finish this one. I can tell you now the biggest issue I see is getting both SJB units to work in harmony.
Last edited by Ecostang; 10/13/15 at 06:56 PM.
#386
Legacy TMS Member
Originally Posted by Ecostang
Maybe I'm not explaining myself well or maybe I don't understand. If the 2015 rear end is 1.5" wider than the s197 rear end that's 3/4" per side. Essentially if I put the 2015 rear end under my car my back wheels would stick out 3/4" more per side than they do right now. My point was that people use wheels spacers now to achieve that look on purpose and I was just showing an example of what my car would look like with a similar stance. If I put the 2015 rear end under my car I would not use any spacers on the rear and add 3/4" spacers to the front wheels to make the front the same as the back.
You're running GT500 wheels now right?
#387
Cobra Member
Thread Starter
Now we're on the same page, and yes you're right hahaha. Wow, my foot tastes terrible right now lol. Although, you'd still need to have a wheel with a stock, or near stock offset. Couldn't go too wide, like say a staggered 20x9/10.5 setup.
You're running GT500 wheels now right?
You're running GT500 wheels now right?
These wheels
Last edited by Ecostang; 10/13/15 at 07:05 PM.
#388
Legacy TMS Member
Originally Posted by Ecostang
Lol, it's all good. I'm running the wheels in the pic I posted above, they are the GT/cs wheels. I'm going to have them widened front and back, obviously more in the back. Sounds crazy to spend this on stock mustang wheels but the idea is to create a sleeper. I want people to look at this car and shrug it off, the only noticeable change to the exterior of the car would be the gt500 front bumper and the quad tip muffler.
These wheels
These wheels
With those wheels, you should be fine with track width if you're able to get the IRS to work...
#389
Cobra Member
Thread Starter
Found this on eBay, a vendor selling the 2015 mustang IRS and listed the measurements. Hub to hub the IRS is listed at 66.25", so I went out and measured my 2010 car hub to hub.....66.25" exactly. I'll check the other measurments tomorrow and report back.
#390
Wao but you changed the hole front end, and It looks great. Cause on the first pics I saw a 2013 front end on your car. Down here we also have a guy that works at a ford dealership, an he reprograms a lot of cars for a friend of mine who has a car dealership but of all brands. I will just sit and wait for your expert advise when your project is up and running, most of my friends with gt's don't believe I will leave them behind with this setup but I'm confident that I will
#391
Cobra Member
Thread Starter
Wao but you changed the hole front end, and It looks great. Cause on the first pics I saw a 2013 front end on your car. Down here we also have a guy that works at a ford dealership, an he reprograms a lot of cars for a friend of mine who has a car dealership but of all brands. I will just sit and wait for your expert advise when your project is up and running, most of my friends with gt's don't believe I will leave them behind with this setup but I'm confident that I will
I'm confident too! Ya my car is a 2010, I bought for the low miles. I changed it all to look like a 2014.
Right now I'm ordering lots of small parts that weren't included with my engine, vacuum hoses, small sensors, fuel vapor hoses. PITA to figure out what's missing and starting to add up. I ordered $350 worth of stuff just today and it's all small pigtails, hoses, sensors, etc.
What year engine did you get? I hope you got all the small parts with it.
#392
Bullitt Member
You will need to do MAJOR chassis modifications to run the IRS. If you're capable of building a roll cage and tubbing a car you will have what it takes. You will need at a minimum a tubing bender, tubing notcher, tig welder, sheet metal shear, sheet metal brake and a lathe. And really good measuring tools.
That's a big job.
That's a big job.
#393
Cobra Member
You will need to do MAJOR chassis modifications to run the IRS. If you're capable of building a roll cage and tubbing a car you will have what it takes. You will need at a minimum a tubing bender, tubing notcher, tig welder, sheet metal shear, sheet metal brake and a lathe. And really good measuring tools.
That's a big job.
That's a big job.
may or may not be true. One things for sure, if anyone's up to the challenge, its this OP.
#394
Bullitt Member
#395
Super Boss Lawman Member
That's why I wondered if the Lincoln LS would work, but apparently it isn't beefy enough and has no aftermarket support. The LS, a Jag, and the last Thunderbird all shared common ground with the S-197. But if those units are too weak, it would be a wasted effort.
#396
Cobra Member
Thread Starter
You will need to do MAJOR chassis modifications to run the IRS. If you're capable of building a roll cage and tubbing a car you will have what it takes. You will need at a minimum a tubing bender, tubing notcher, tig welder, sheet metal shear, sheet metal brake and a lathe. And really good measuring tools.
That's a big job.
That's a big job.
I'll have my friend come over this weekend so I can measure his car, after that I'll be able to come up with a plan. It may take cutting the floor to get it in....that would certainly change the complexity of it. If it can't be done without major surgery I may reconsider.
#397
Cobra Member
Thread Starter
I gotcha, I didn't realize there were any chassis similarities between them. I'll check out the 2015 first but if it won't fit maybe that's a consideration.
#398
Cobra Member
Thread Starter
#399
Bullitt Member
I do have most of those things at work, mid welder instead of tig but that works fine. Keep in mind it's just 4 bolts (plus shock mounts), I'm not convinced yet it's that big of a job yet. If the IRS fits in the cavity that the original rearend fits in and all that has to be done is to create 4 mounts to attach it to the car body, it won't be that hard for me. I've done colliision work on cars in the past, its the only thing I went to college for. Locating the mounting holes on the car will be a little challenging but completely doable with a couple of key measuring devices that are used in the body shop.
I'll have my friend come over this weekend so I can measure his car, after that I'll be able to come up with a plan. It may take cutting the floor to get it in....that would certainly change the complexity of it. If it can't be done without major surgery I may reconsider.
I'll have my friend come over this weekend so I can measure his car, after that I'll be able to come up with a plan. It may take cutting the floor to get it in....that would certainly change the complexity of it. If it can't be done without major surgery I may reconsider.
Swapping an IRS in is a long climb for a short slide. Unless you're looking at breaking some lap records at the road race track there is no performance advantage. In fact there is a performance penalty. It weighs more and there is more driveline loss with an IRS. And they aren't as strong as the 8.8. Hell, you will spend $1200-1600 on half shafts running the IRS. You will break the stock ones.
If you're looking just to do it because it's cool have at it. I can appreciate that. But it's not a good move as far as performance or expense goes. My $.02.
#400
Cobra Member
Thread Starter
The big "issue" is the mounting points. All of them will have to be tied into something "solid". You will basically have to build a "subframe" into the car using tubing. And then sheet metal it in.
Swapping an IRS in is a long climb for a short slide. Unless you're looking at breaking some lap records at the road race track there is no performance advantage. In fact there is a performance penalty. It weighs more and there is more driveline loss with an IRS. And they aren't as strong as the 8.8. Hell, you will spend $1200-1600 on half shafts running the IRS. You will break the stock ones.
If you're looking just to do it because it's cool have at it. I can appreciate that. But it's not a good move as far as performance or expense goes. My $.02.
Swapping an IRS in is a long climb for a short slide. Unless you're looking at breaking some lap records at the road race track there is no performance advantage. In fact there is a performance penalty. It weighs more and there is more driveline loss with an IRS. And they aren't as strong as the 8.8. Hell, you will spend $1200-1600 on half shafts running the IRS. You will break the stock ones.
If you're looking just to do it because it's cool have at it. I can appreciate that. But it's not a good move as far as performance or expense goes. My $.02.
The friend that owns the 2015 is a is a PE (professional engineer) and is interested in this modification. Maybe I can get his help figuring it out, I would love to create a CAD drawing of the modification before trying it. We should be able to find chassis drawings, they are used in the body shop for colliision repair.