Ecostang

Thanks! I agree and I will be welding in the bracket today. The bolt does not fit snug in the hole on the epas arm, which tells me that holding side to side motion isn't it's purpose. I also realized that when you tighten that bolt it does not tighten down on the epas arm, if I put in the bolt without the bracket (as pictured) it would put pressure on the aluminum arm and that pressure may be bad for it. I think I have a plan now, shouldn't be too much work.

Ecostang

Thanks! Lol, ok so I'm not doing it wrong. Thanks for explaining that! I only have an iPad so I guess you guys will seeing lots of single pic posts from me

Ecostang

Gotta love eBay! Bought this today to cool the water for the intercoolers. It's a factory second with a couple minor defects but I could care less since I saved $300 on it! Btw I think this will be the first water cooled intercooler put on a 3.5 ecoboost, should be good for a few more horsepower by lowering entering air temps but also there is almost no pressure drop (.1 psi) using water-to-air intercoolers. I'm tempted to put this on my Shelby and use the oem cooler for the project car. Problem is I don't need more HP with the Shelby, I need more traction....

Ecostang

I built the bracket today, was fairly easy. Not my finest work but after the engine is in you will never see it

Ecostang

Shot from underneath before I bolted it up. Had to drill a 1" hole underneath to get the 3.5" x 1/2" bolt through, used a metal hole saw. It overlapped with an existing hole, that's why it's shaped funny.

Ecostang

This is with the epas bolted in, I used plenty of loctite.

Ecostang

I still need to finish installing the tie rods and get the harness figured out. Lexiion told me he has a harness, that will be very helpful. I'll need to install a 2012+ cluster to get the settings working, I'll need some help with that. I will post everything that I have to do to switch over to epas. Btw I love the electric steering in my truck and my Shelby, Im glad this build required it and it's possible.

I would say this would be much harder with the engine in the way. You would need to drop the K-member to be able to weld on it, that would require supporting the engine with a lift.

To go from hydrualic steering to epas I spent $275 for low mile epas unit, gauge cluster $50, wiring harness ???, an hour to make the bracket, and probably a charge for an hour at the ford dealer reprogramming the PATS. This gives me selectable steering, that's cool!

LEXiiON

I can help you with the PATS. No need for a dealer.

LEXiiON

SpectreH

I consider myself to be mechanically inclined and do most of the work myself on my cars, but the level of skill I see in threads like this continues to amaze me....and shows me how much I still have to learn.

Ecostang

That's great, dealers usually **** me off anyways. I guess you can reprogram PATS with the tool you mentioned to me that you own? That's cool!

laserred38

This is awesome! Back when I still had my old '00 V6 auto, my second car ever, I wanted to do a 3.5TT swap in it. I ended up selling it to my cousin for his first car, so I never got the chance. BUT, it's great seeing someone do it!

Are you going to paint the car black, or keep it Red Candy and let it be the "red headed step child" of your collection?

Also, where's the brake upgrades? Lol

LEXiiON

Correct.
And all the other necessary PMI 's
LEXiiON

Ecostang

Thank you! Although I think it's less skill on my part and more confidence in knowing I can eventually figure something out if I just keep working on it. I'm strong mechanically but very weak electronically, that's why the forums are great, there is always help out there. I literally have been reading forums for a year trying to figure out how to get this done. My original idea was a little different.

You guys will probably think I'm crazy but my original idea was to buy a wrecked 2010+ Taurus sho with 3.5 ecoboost and remove the AWD and drop that in my mustang to make the first new model AWD mustang. Why? Because I live in Boulder CO and can only drive my cars 8-9 months a year. With AWD I could drive year round and have a very special car....plus traction! I got pretty far in to this, turns out the mustang engine bay is a few inches short on width for the transverse engine. I then looked at the ecoboost fusion AWD and almost went with the that drivetrain, it fits, but is a 4cyl and I couldn't get enough HP out of it to make it worth it. I decided I would try again one day with the focus RS mk2 drivetrain which is AWD, 4cyl, and 600hp. Pretty rare car so I would need to wait for a wrecked one to get all the parts.

Ecostang

I like that, it will be my red headed step child, and will be treated as such .

I bid on some Shelby rear brakes last night but didn't win, I do plan to change them all out.

I don't think that the 3.5 TT gets enough credit....well it least it didn't until they replaced the 5.4 and 6.2 in the ford GT and the raptor with it! I was digging this engine way before they made that announcement. I've owned 7 f150s and the last 3 had 5.4 liter engines, this v6 destroys them all in every aspect. I pulled a 5k lb trailer for 20 hours from Texas to CO and the ecoboost barely ever shifted out of 6th gear, even up in the mountains. I counted it, over 1k miles it needed to downshift 12xs while on the highway going from 500' elevation to 5500', bad to the bone.

Ecostang

Snagged the necessary gauge cluster to control the Epas today for $40, my car has 9k miles and the odometer for this cluster has 5k miles, close enough.

Ecostang

Anyone interested in helping me figure out how to put more fuel in to this engine? The factory fuel system limits me to around 475 rwhp, which isn't shabby. The factory HPFP (high pressure fuel pump) is tapped out and a larger unit isn't available,same for the DI injectors. You can however add pressure and flow on the LPFP located in the tank to get a little more out of the HPFP...which I'm already doing.

I spoke to a guy that simply added more fuel to a completely stock 3.5 TT in an open wheel racer and said he put down 550 rwhp. He won the open class for the pikes peak hill climb with this engine. He used a transverse ecoboost from a Taurus SHO which has an aluminum intake. He welded in injector bungs and added fuel injection, at the same time he disabled the DI (direct injection) and ran the fuel injection with a stand alone controller, that's how he got around needing the control pack. This leads me to my questions.

1. Can I use the control pack to control aux injectors too?
2. OR do I run to run the factory DI and use the auxiliary injectors controlled by a stand alone controller?
3. Do I disable the factory DI and only use the added injectors for fuel? I do not like this option at all, part of the ecoboost charm is the DI even if it's supplemented.

Next, how do I get this extra fuel in the engine?

One option is using a 3.7 mustang intake manifold upper and lower, with the oem style injectors. There are 2 problems with this. First the heads would need to be drilled out where the injector sits on the ecoboost heads. The 3.7 heads have a notch in the intake port for the injector to clear, since the ecboost doesn't have injectors there's no notch. I had planned to make a guide that bolted on the head to use a large drill bit to make the notch. This could be a pain in the a$$ especially if I have to remove the heads or if I screw something up. Second problem is that the manifold inlet points to the air cleaner, that doesn't work for a turbo install because I need to come from the intercooler to the intake. This will make my turbo piping much more difficult and it will have an extra bend trying to angle back to the intercooler.

Second option is to use the existing f150 intake manifold and install injector bungs in it. This makes the turbo piping much easier and allows me to use the factory air cleaner or aftermarket CAI for the f150. The injector bungs are aluminum and they state in the description they can be epoxied in, I beileive that, there's some great gas resistant expoxies to choose from. The major issue with this could be clearance to the hood with the injectors sticking out of the top of the intake. Second issue is I'm going to need 2 custom fuel rails to hook all the injectors together and I don't know where to get that.

Can someone with a 3.7 do me a huge favor and measure the distance from the bottom of their lower intake to approx the bottom of the hood so I can know the clearance? Looks like the injector with bung will be 2.75" plus the fuel rail let's say 1". This all is above the intake manifold which at the point where the bung will be located is 5" from the bottom of the intake manifold. This gives me an overall measurement of approx 9" from top of the fuel rail to the bottom of the intake. Is that doable? I could probably tighten this up some but I feel like with 9" everything would fit comfortably.

Ecostang

The nerf dart represents the 1st injector placement

Ecostang

Maybe it's possible to put the injectors in at an angle but I feel like the fuel spray may not be optimal vs straight down. This would reduce the overall height some if it becomes necessary.

Ecostang

This is a pic I found online of the SHO aluminum intake with aux injectors added, I could get one of these but the angle of the intake is wrong for the turbo piping just like the 3.7. If I can make this work with the f150 intake that would be my best option.

Here's a link to the manifold build thread, pretty nice job.
http://www.svtperformance.com/forums...-Ecoboost-Mods

With 5 min of googling I found several companies that will make custom fuel rails, that's going to be easy to handle.

Automatic 5.0

Cool project!