Just got my 2013 5.0
10/2/13, 01:12 AM
#181
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Bottom line is I plan on tuning around 10k miles, I have to send my tuner in to get checked because it won't power up unless its connected to the car and it says to update the tuner software before using. I already have a CAI I'm going to use but it needs a tune, and I'm going to save up for the boss 302 intake manifold. What are things I should specify to bama to make sure my tune won't toast my motor?
Thank you to everyone, I'm learning a lot here
Thank you to everyone, I'm learning a lot here
10/2/13, 09:50 AM
#182
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The reason why I'm asking is because I have a daily driver and would like to add a 100 shot of nitrous for occasional use but I would not want to drive around with a nitrous tune with pulled timing.
10/3/13, 07:33 PM
#183
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10/3/13, 11:49 PM
#184
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10/3/13, 11:49 PM
#185
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So if I wanted an aggressive tune for daily driving but with the occasional use of nitrous, you would want to build in the extra timing but let the tune pull it out rapidly if it needs to... or is what I'm saying completely unsafe?
The reason why I'm asking is because I have a daily driver and would like to add a 100 shot of nitrous for occasional use but I would not want to drive around with a nitrous tune with pulled timing.
10/4/13, 05:59 AM
#186
10/4/13, 09:02 AM
#187
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I think you can safely run up to a 100 shot without going to a colder plug, provided of course you run a window switch, fuel pressure safety, and throttle switch.
The stock intake will live as long as you don't have a nitrous backfire, which the throttle and window switches will help avoid.
The weak links internally are the rods and pistons. Although there are some people out there pushing a 150 shot, I wouldn't do it. Forged rods and pistons should let you run a 200 shot.
The stock intake will live as long as you don't have a nitrous backfire, which the throttle and window switches will help avoid.
The weak links internally are the rods and pistons. Although there are some people out there pushing a 150 shot, I wouldn't do it. Forged rods and pistons should let you run a 200 shot.
10/4/13, 01:53 PM
#188
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I think you can safely run up to a 100 shot without going to a colder plug, provided of course you run a window switch, fuel pressure safety, and throttle switch.
The stock intake will live as long as you don't have a nitrous backfire, which the throttle and window switches will help avoid.
The weak links internally are the rods and pistons. Although there are some people out there pushing a 150 shot, I wouldn't do it. Forged rods and pistons should let you run a 200 shot.
The stock intake will live as long as you don't have a nitrous backfire, which the throttle and window switches will help avoid.
The weak links internally are the rods and pistons. Although there are some people out there pushing a 150 shot, I wouldn't do it. Forged rods and pistons should let you run a 200 shot.
I've always found that through a single nozzle system 125 is about the best you can go. Anymore than that you would need to be on an atomized plate.
-Matt
10/4/13, 03:31 PM
#189
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Just going to chime in to the people not understanding fords view on tunes under warranty after reading through all 19 pages lol...
This is entirely my opinion on it but I believe it makes since.
1. Once they see a tune they will automatically assume you run the **** out of your car or track it, which means they think if you are running it as hard as it can go all the time that's what couldve caused the issue due to higher hp, more engine stress etc etc.
2. Someone mentioned how they did they think gears could void a warranty but its the same deal. They think you run it hard since you swapped gears so you pushing the car to its max all the time couldve caused the issue.
3. Same goes for most performance parts if you really think about it, mostly since you are adding more horsepower than how ford built it. They test them extremely hard when they do their extensive testing on them so they can say the factory set up can handle this and this but if you add this we don't know what it could do/ effect if you run it hard etc etc.
Not saying its entirely right but they have a good view point on it because they know there's people out there that purposely beat the hell out of their new cars that try to use warranty, which why would fors want to fix something you just abused and didn't take care of?
This is entirely my opinion on it but I believe it makes since.
1. Once they see a tune they will automatically assume you run the **** out of your car or track it, which means they think if you are running it as hard as it can go all the time that's what couldve caused the issue due to higher hp, more engine stress etc etc.
2. Someone mentioned how they did they think gears could void a warranty but its the same deal. They think you run it hard since you swapped gears so you pushing the car to its max all the time couldve caused the issue.
3. Same goes for most performance parts if you really think about it, mostly since you are adding more horsepower than how ford built it. They test them extremely hard when they do their extensive testing on them so they can say the factory set up can handle this and this but if you add this we don't know what it could do/ effect if you run it hard etc etc.
Not saying its entirely right but they have a good view point on it because they know there's people out there that purposely beat the hell out of their new cars that try to use warranty, which why would fors want to fix something you just abused and didn't take care of?
10/8/13, 02:24 AM
#190
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I think you can safely run up to a 100 shot without going to a colder plug, provided of course you run a window switch, fuel pressure safety, and throttle switch.
The stock intake will live as long as you don't have a nitrous backfire, which the throttle and window switches will help avoid.
The weak links internally are the rods and pistons. Although there are some people out there pushing a 150 shot, I wouldn't do it. Forged rods and pistons should let you run a 200 shot.
Windows switch is (in my opinion) the BEST safety feature you can have with nitrous. I would couple a window switch, with a TPS switch for our cars.
I've always found that through a single nozzle system 125 is about the best you can go. Anymore than that you would need to be on an atomized plate.
-Matt
What is a window switch?
Throttle switch?
TPS switch?
I would only want to run 75 shot for now anyway
10/8/13, 06:26 AM
#192
10/8/13, 06:27 AM
#194
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Throttle switch, will activate the nitrous system at a certain throttle angel/percentage. For instance, you want the nitrous to activate at 100% throttle.
TPS = Throttle Position Switch
100 is the safest option. (Always has been)
-Matt
10/13/13, 12:23 AM
#195
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Window switch, is a device that activates nitrous between a pre-set RPM. For instance you want your nitrous to be active between 1k and 7k RPM.
Throttle switch, will activate the nitrous system at a certain throttle angel/percentage. For instance, you want the nitrous to activate at 100% throttle.
TPS = Throttle Position Switch
100 is the safest option. (Always has been)
-Matt
11/20/13, 12:49 AM
#196
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For anyone still following this thread I got the steeda CAI and sct tuner with bama tunes and the bama tunes caused my heads to detonate because the afr was set wrong.
11/20/13, 12:50 AM
#197
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I originally was going with a bama flash tune (I did love it) but it caused detonation so I had to flash it back to stock and I'm getting it dyno tuned with Eddie at addiction motorsports on Friday
